It is the blower resister because high isfrom battery power but all other speeds go through the resistor. If it works on high obviously the relay is good.
correct, the blower works just as Kameklocked described. the ability to switch from defrost to vent to floor, is controlled by vacuum.
'95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
And, if the thermal fuse in the blower motor resistor pack has blown (which yours surely has), the blower motor itself is likely bad. Both are easy to change in a '93--the resistor pack should be under $20 at the dealer and the blowe motor should be around $30 at Advance Auto (or the like).
'94 Cherokee Country Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler. Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000. Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops. Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer. Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch. Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE. Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas. Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts. Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle. Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
You can acutally replace the thermal fuse if you like tinkering around with things. They are are about $2 at radio shack. I'll look for the write up I did when I had this problem in the past.
Here's a link with a few pics when I fixed mine. There are also some links to the thermal fuses that radio shack sells. They usually stock them in the store. It's a pretty easy job if you can solder. I would think you could just crimp it in also. The reisitor pack is easy to get too so you can work on it inside.
Total agreement on the "blolwer motor resistor block" (the exact name to ask for), because I just replaced it about three days ago on my '93. Just under $17 at the local dealership. Just drop the little plastic cover located down at your right foot (if you are seated in the passenger seat), and you'll see the plug attached to the resistor block in the side of the blower housing. Five minutes and you'll have all four speeds back.
DLYoung1 in Texas
'93 Stock XJ, 4.0 2wd, AW4
Well I wish I had read this today before I went and orded the $30 resistor. OH well live and learn. I should have it mid week. I'll let you know how it goes. I am saving that link tho. TYVM for the help.
Sundowners 4x4 Club
do be aware that from 84-96 the xj uses a 4-spd fan switch in the heater/temp control area that can burn out as well.
in my case, the blower would work on low, med, and not on high or shigh.
i pulled the old switch and got another one from a earlier mopar minivan and replaced my fried one. it also crispied the wiring harness connector to the blower speed switch. IF you smell burning electrical on high blower speed that comes/goes, or have to "tap" the blower speed selector before it works...then you blower switch is going to die like mine... but it's easy to fix.
well i litterally just finished fixin mine like an hour or two ago and had same problem like a month ago i onl had high then i had nothing unless i was driving at a decent speed any way my controls obviously worked i could cycle through the diffent modes.....i had no speed control unless manually push started with screw driver...any way the resistor pack is easy to checkhttp://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/F...elink_fix.html
and the blower motor is easy and cheap enough to replace ($57cdn) http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...ower_Motor.htm
i didnt even know i had 4speeds and now it blows better than ever just in time for winter
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