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Unread 08-30-2011, 03:54 PM   #1
RacerX
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1989 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Headlight switch, wire bundle melted

1989 Cherokee Limited
My headlight switch was new when i got the Cherokee (in a box - I put it in), But I was soon to discover that the wires had been overheated and some of the insulation melted.
Yesterday, I tore into it to find that the wires have actually stuck together, so now they actually short each-other.
SO..... Now Im trying to fix it.
I have a wire diagram, and am torn between minimal fix, and re-wiring it to a set of toggles (headlights, running-parking, and floor-dome on separate switches) with wire direct to the components.

ANY thoughts, advise, directions...?
BTW, I have NO, or almost no $$ to really spend. (will get almost $100 next Mo, disability)

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Unread 08-30-2011, 03:56 PM   #2
RacerX
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Wire diagram

Enlarged and colored this diagram:
headlamp-circuit.jpg  
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Unread 08-30-2011, 11:54 PM   #3
Reptile
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Whatever you do, make sure you use only wiring and switches that are rated for your application. The more Amp you run, the lower the wire's AWG. Your wiring must be able to carry at least the amount of current of the fuse's rating, or it will melt. Another option is to install a relay to operate the headlights; this allows you to use a low current switch.
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Unread 08-31-2011, 12:38 AM   #4
RacerX
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Ok. I Wired 2 switches and will need a 3rd (for dimmer)
here is what the burned wires looked like:
p1050301-headlight-plug.jpg   p1050304-burned-wires.jpg  
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Unread 08-31-2011, 06:22 AM   #5
Carves
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Read somewhere that a replacement socket is available from a bunch of places ....

AIRTEX Part # 1P1190

Duralast Part = 583

Not sure whether all year models are the same though ..
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Unread 08-31-2011, 10:30 AM   #6
RacerX
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^ Got one, well a used one, and was gonna solder it in (that's why I took the Dash off), but this way I can keep the wires separated (for heat purposes) and have better control with 3 switches e.g. headlights or Dash on ONLY...

I never really liked the Pull-On style switch, although I can still wire the new socket back in.

thinking about this style for main:
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/.../84815-007.jpg
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Unread 08-31-2011, 10:46 AM   #7
CJ7-Tim
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The heat is from excessive voltage draw through the headlamp switch circuit.

The simple solution is to replace the failed components and to add a relay for the headlights. The relay will handle the high voltage and your wires in the dash will stay cool.
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Unread 09-01-2011, 12:29 PM   #8
RacerX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
The heat is from excessive voltage draw through the headlamp switch circuit.

The simple solution is to replace the failed components and to add a relay for the headlights.
Yeah I know.
I had replaced the switch, If you look at the pics and read the text, you'll see that the wires are melted too far back to just replace parts.
That Is why I had to pull the Dash, cut and replace wires.

I am looking at rewiring the headlights with a relay but for now I just need to fix the wires under the dash.

I'll add more as I get more done.
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4-wheeling is about going where others can't won't or don't think it's safe.
Freedom. Exploring the wilderness, or nature, whatever... - NOT paying to go on someone's roller-coaster ride, or go-cart track!
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Unread 09-01-2011, 05:05 PM   #9
Carves
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacerX View Post
^ Got one, well a used one, and was gonna solder it in (that's why I took the Dash off), but this way I can keep the wires separated (for heat purposes) and have better control with 3 switches e.g. headlights or Dash on ONLY...

I never really liked the Pull-On style switch, although I can still wire the new socket back in.

thinking about this style for main:
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/.../84815-007.jpg

As CJ7-Tim said .... The heat is due to excessive draw through the little stock wires ....

Relays/Harness upgrade are a damned fine upgrade .... and should have been a factory fitting IMHO ...

Nothing wrong with a new switch arrangement though - if your happy flicking switches ....
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Unread 09-06-2011, 11:21 PM   #10
RacerX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carves View Post
As CJ7-Tim said .... The heat is due to excessive draw through the little stock wires ....

Relays/Harness upgrade are a damned fine upgrade .... and should have been a factory fitting IMHO ...

Nothing wrong with a new switch arrangement though - if your happy flicking switches ....
Yeah I understand the excessive heat/ current thing.

I'm looking into LED headlights or something else that draws less current that standard lights, or doing the re-wire and relocating the headlamps to the bumper (so I don't have to blind people in small cars) and using small round projector beams, then covering the old light bezels.

as far as I can tell the state requirement are that you can see the light at least 1000' and no more than 54" from ground, or less than 24"
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4-wheeling is about going where others can't won't or don't think it's safe.
Freedom. Exploring the wilderness, or nature, whatever... - NOT paying to go on someone's roller-coaster ride, or go-cart track!
"The price of freedom is eternal vigilance." - Thomas Jefferson
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Unread 09-07-2011, 12:46 AM   #11
RacerX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carves View Post
As CJ7-Tim said .... The heat is due to excessive draw through the little stock wires ....

Relays/Harness upgrade are a damned fine upgrade .... and should have been a factory fitting IMHO ...

Nothing wrong with a new switch arrangement though - if your happy flicking switches ....
Yeah I understand the excessive heat/ current thing.

I'm looking into LED headlights or something else that draws less current that standard lights, or doing the re-wire and relocating the headlamps to the bumper (so I don't have to blind people in small cars) and using small round projector beams, then covering the old light bezels.

as far as I can tell the state requirement are that you can see the light at least 1000' and no more than 54" from ground, or less than 24"
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4-wheeling is about going where others can't won't or don't think it's safe.
Freedom. Exploring the wilderness, or nature, whatever... - NOT paying to go on someone's roller-coaster ride, or go-cart track!
"The price of freedom is eternal vigilance." - Thomas Jefferson
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Unread 09-07-2011, 12:56 AM   #12
Flyordie
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Take a picture of under your hood if you can. I might be able to design a headlamp re-wire kit to drop load on your headlight switch to under 1A if I can find a place to put all the wires under your hood. lol.

My lamp switch draws .8A when the headlights are on. :-p

The headlights have the full brunt of the alternator pulsing through their bulbs. 13.5V @ idle alt and 14.8V @ 1,200 RPMs. I can pull up to 220W per lamp. :-)

I wasn't really to into the "making it pretty" when it came to wiring, just safe.

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Unread 09-07-2011, 09:59 PM   #13
Reptile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyordie View Post
Take a picture of under your hood if you can. I might be able to design a headlamp re-wire kit to drop load on your headlight switch to under 1A if I can find a place to put all the wires under your hood. lol.

My lamp switch draws .8A when the headlights are on. :-p

The headlights have the full brunt of the alternator pulsing through their bulbs. 13.5V @ idle alt and 14.8V @ 1,200 RPMs. I can pull up to 220W per lamp. :-)

I wasn't really to into the "making it pretty" when it came to wiring, just safe.
Making pretty is for sissies anyway....

Say, huh how long do you expect the tape around the rad hose to last??
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Unread 09-07-2011, 10:07 PM   #14
Flyordie
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Originally Posted by Reptile View Post
Making pretty is for sissies anyway....

Say, huh how long do you expect the tape around the rad hose to last??
idk, just waiting for it to go tbh.. I got a spare hose in the back. Gonna replace it here in the next month or so when I swap to the 195 thermostat for winter.
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Unread 09-08-2011, 12:37 AM   #15
RacerX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyordie View Post
Take a picture of under your hood if you can. I might be able to design a headlamp re-wire kit to drop load on your headlight switch to under 1A if I can find a place to put all the wires under your hood. lol.

My lamp switch draws .8A when the headlights are on. :-p
The headlights have the full brunt of the alternator pulsing through their bulbs. 13.5V @ idle
This is pretty much the same as mine, mine looks cleaner because I've replaced some stuff, and cleaned up the wiring (been working on the wiring for YEARS now) put new breakers in and added a extra line to the headlights with 30 or I think 40 amp breaker.
1989-jeep-cherokee-underhood-stock-193a.jpg  
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4-wheeling is about going where others can't won't or don't think it's safe.
Freedom. Exploring the wilderness, or nature, whatever... - NOT paying to go on someone's roller-coaster ride, or go-cart track!
"The price of freedom is eternal vigilance." - Thomas Jefferson
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