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Unread 07-27-2014, 10:29 PM   #1
TylerU
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Had a bad day, O'****** piece of ****, the aftermath if a 3" lift

After 3" lift, I was thinking to extend my brakelines, but with all the the parts and tools, the farking bolt on the hose won't come off. But call me dumb I disconnected the nut to the caliper first and it leaks fluid and crap. Since I can't get the old hose off, no biggy, I just want to put them back, right?
But now, I got to bleed the brake. Guess what, bleeder bolt won't budge either.

Full of air, in my caliper, I had to floor the brake to get enough braking power. So I went to O'Reilly get a new caliper all together. While putting this rebuilt piece of junk, I was doing everything by the book. Using a torque wrench set to 32ft/lbs, the lower mounting bolt stripped on the hex head, a little pissed... but it's tight enough, The 1/2 wrench slipped, and my finger plunges into the wheel well... Lost some nails and it's still bleeding.

But I don't quit, and I move on to the upper one.
Same torque. After a few wrenching it's getting tight but still no clicking on the wrench yet, so I kept going..

And... It... Broke..

Half left in the mount. While unable to unbolt the lower one, I'm just letting it hang there with only bolt tight.
In conclusion, a cut thumb, $30, sweat and hours of my life all because of the farking bolts won't come off..

Why does everything has to be difficult?

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Unread Yesterday, 11:45 AM   #2
JSR12
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PB blaster is a lifesaver man. If I had unlimited amounts of money I would set up a device that just misted the whole undercarriage with the stuff every time I pulled into the garage.
If the head of your lower mounting bolt is completely rounded off you still have some options and I would recommend replacing all of those bolts because I doubt this is the last time you'll ever work on your brakes and you want it to go much more smoothly next time.
- 1st like I said PB blaster the heck outta that whole caliper.
- if you can get an angle grinder in there you can carefully cut a slot in the head of the rounded off bolt then take an impact screwdriver with a flathead bit on it the shock should work it out of there. ( i had to do this once on a toyota transmission that someone had run the drain plug on with an impact)
- those easy out things actually work most of the time.

Just some options I hope it helps but yea you are completely right nothing is ever easy
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Unread Yesterday, 11:58 AM   #3
Renix
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35ft lbs seems way to tight for the mounting bolts or the banjo bolt. If I remember correctly its more in the 15 ft lbs range. Me personally I don't like to use a torque wrench on the brake calipers. If you must then I suggest using a 1/4 inch torque wrench, something geared more towards inch lbs not foot lbs. When you use a large torque wrench where very little torque is needed you run the risk of over tightening because of the leverage applied by the wrench.
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Unread Yesterday, 12:11 PM   #4
um7267
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the bolts that hold the caliper on are like 14ft pounds, which i feel is to loose but hey thats what they want
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Unread Yesterday, 01:55 PM   #5
skyway0018746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by um7267 View Post
the bolts that hold the caliper on are like 14ft pounds, which i feel is to loose but hey thats what they want
Theres is no force on these bolts ...
The 35 ft lbs seems a bit high I never use a torque wrench except for heads and manifolds . If you have a welder wend a new nut to the head. Or hammer on a 12 point socket that's smaller and hope it bites. Drill and ez-out the other one.
Also I'm pretty sure thoes bolts are metric so 1/2 " wrench is wrong here.
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Unread Yesterday, 02:04 PM   #6
bobthecatkiller
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Heat takes care of almost any stuck nut or bolt
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Unread Yesterday, 02:51 PM   #7
TylerU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyway0018746

Theres is no force on these bolts ...
The 35 ft lbs seems a bit high I never use a torque wrench except for heads and manifolds . If you have a welder wend a new nut to the head. Or hammer on a 12 point socket that's smaller and hope it bites. Drill and ez-out the other one.
Also I'm pretty sure thoes bolts are metric so 1/2 " wrench is wrong here.
I mean the 1/2 ratchet.
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Unread Yesterday, 05:50 PM   #8
JSR12
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Originally Posted by bobthecatkiller View Post
Heat takes care of almost any stuck nut or bolt
Careful with heat around brake lines brake fluid is flammable and you don't want to end up with a crispy jeep....or worse.
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Unread Yesterday, 05:54 PM   #9
RockRodHooligan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerU View Post
I mean the 1/2 ratchet.
1/2" ratchet is overkill for the caliper bolts, 3/8 drive is plenty, but I generally stick with 1/4" to make sure I don't strip the threads out of the knuckle(that's a bad day).

I fail to see how this makes it O'Reillys fault, or the parts they sale?
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Unread Yesterday, 05:56 PM   #10
RockRodHooligan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyway0018746 View Post
Theres is no force on these bolts ...
The 35 ft lbs seems a bit high I never use a torque wrench except for heads and manifolds . If you have a welder wend a new nut to the head. Or hammer on a 12 point socket that's smaller and hope it bites. Drill and ez-out the other one.
Also I'm pretty sure thoes bolts are metric so 1/2 " wrench is wrong here.
1/2" is the standard equivalent to 13mm, it works if you don't have the right metric wrench just fine
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Penis inches...
Good god man. Indyorv :rofl: d**k and fart jokes. :rofl:
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Unread Yesterday, 06:07 PM   #11
skyway0018746
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Originally Posted by RockRodHooligan View Post

1/2" is the standard equivalent to 13mm, it works if you don't have the right metric wrench just fine
Theres is .011 difference in size there not exactly close enough . But that's not the problem here. The problem is he over tighten the bolt and it broke.

The bolts should come out fairly easy since their were recently out .
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Unread Today, 12:40 AM   #12
kycherokee1239
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FSM. specs 11 ft/lbs for 2000 XJ caliper bolts
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