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Grinding/popping in 4WD with new T-Case skid
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Grinding/popping in 4WD with new T-Case skid
Ok, so I put my new t-case skid plate on my XJ. Now I am getting some really bad grinding/popping when I put it in any of the four wheel options (4W Part time, full time and full low). Maybe connected, might not be... The last time I use the 4WD was last month at KITM and everything worked fine.
I'm hoping that it's this T-case skid, its the Warn t-case skid, 242 t-case, and D30 front axle. The grinding is only in 4WD and nothing in 2WD. All front u-joints are good. Thoughts?
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-HavenSOV Bertha: '91 XJ 4.5 RC, JCR stg 2 Sliders, JCR TC Skid, JCR Stg 3 Rear Bumper, 4.0 HO, Cragar V5's, 31 Dakota M/T, Custom Staff Caring Tubes, Wally World Driving Lights. Kermit: '93, stock right now but will soon have all parts from Bertha. South West Michigan Jeepers |
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#2 |
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 3,455
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You might've thrown the selector rod adjustment off a little -> 4wd modes won't fully engage, causing grinding/ popping.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX, 100k miles, 1.75" BB, 32 x 11.50 BFG MT KM2s, custom- fabbed bumpers etc.. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/daily-driver-5-9-build-thread-bumpers-tube-rockers-etc-1222317/ 1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles*** ***Under construction*** 1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear, etc... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/hybrid-cage-build-exo-cage-internal-973910/ |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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ok, where is that(which side of the T-Case?)
__________________
-HavenSOV Bertha: '91 XJ 4.5 RC, JCR stg 2 Sliders, JCR TC Skid, JCR Stg 3 Rear Bumper, 4.0 HO, Cragar V5's, 31 Dakota M/T, Custom Staff Caring Tubes, Wally World Driving Lights. Kermit: '93, stock right now but will soon have all parts from Bertha. South West Michigan Jeepers |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Is your driveshaft hitting? Would a disco axle's driveshaft spin when its disconnected?
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88 Jeep Cherokee - 4.0 - AX15 - 231 - d30 disconnect with welded spiders - d35+aussie 1998 Suzuki TL-1000R |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Thats a good question, but I think that it does.
I have crawled underneath and it doesn't look like the front drive shaft is hitting anything (Unless it is when I'm i it). Also, the skid was pushing against the T-Cass at first, but I have put spacers in now so it doesn't. Anyone else have any thoughts as to why this is happening?
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-HavenSOV Bertha: '91 XJ 4.5 RC, JCR stg 2 Sliders, JCR TC Skid, JCR Stg 3 Rear Bumper, 4.0 HO, Cragar V5's, 31 Dakota M/T, Custom Staff Caring Tubes, Wally World Driving Lights. Kermit: '93, stock right now but will soon have all parts from Bertha. South West Michigan Jeepers |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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X2 on the rod adjustment. Check it.
Bob K |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Where is it?
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-HavenSOV Bertha: '91 XJ 4.5 RC, JCR stg 2 Sliders, JCR TC Skid, JCR Stg 3 Rear Bumper, 4.0 HO, Cragar V5's, 31 Dakota M/T, Custom Staff Caring Tubes, Wally World Driving Lights. Kermit: '93, stock right now but will soon have all parts from Bertha. South West Michigan Jeepers |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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On the driver side of transmission. Just forward of the crossmember. Reach up past the front drive shaft and loosen the 13mm (I think) bolt. Manually move the linkage going to the transfer case and shift it into Neutral. Make sure you feel the detent. Then put the interior lever to neutral and tighten up the bolt. Iill try linking a pic. Never done this before.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/bz5xj/xfercaseadjpic.jpg Bob K Last edited by bz5xj; 12-05-2007 at 01:48 PM.. |
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#9 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Ok, got under her yesterday. followed the instruction the best I could... But... What the heck do they mean "Moves freely" Thats not real helpful....
Ok, so on the linkage there is the tighten nut, its in a piece of u shaped metal that goes around a block of metal on the rod coming from the shifter... Is that block of metal supposed to move? I didn't wrench on that too hard because I didn't know if that was supposed to be welded to the rod or if it was supposed to move and is rusted in place. So is the block supposed to move?
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-HavenSOV Bertha: '91 XJ 4.5 RC, JCR stg 2 Sliders, JCR TC Skid, JCR Stg 3 Rear Bumper, 4.0 HO, Cragar V5's, 31 Dakota M/T, Custom Staff Caring Tubes, Wally World Driving Lights. Kermit: '93, stock right now but will soon have all parts from Bertha. South West Michigan Jeepers |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Once you loosen the bolt, the rod should move freely in the block. Put th PB blaster to it.
Bob K |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Ok, got it loose. it was moving freely... Retightened... Now the grinding is worse then before when in any 4WD option... So is there any hint as to where the lever from the TC is supposed to be? It felt like it was all the way back, or is there some other way of checking to make sure that its engaged?
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-HavenSOV Bertha: '91 XJ 4.5 RC, JCR stg 2 Sliders, JCR TC Skid, JCR Stg 3 Rear Bumper, 4.0 HO, Cragar V5's, 31 Dakota M/T, Custom Staff Caring Tubes, Wally World Driving Lights. Kermit: '93, stock right now but will soon have all parts from Bertha. South West Michigan Jeepers |
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#13 |
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 3,455
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Engage 4lo using pliers or something from the adjustment thingy on the TC, then put the lever to 4lo, and tighten. Go through all the modes and see that they work. You might need to do it a couple of times to get it right, but shouldn't be too bad.
Took me about 15 mins. when I had a helper inside the car moving the lever.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX, 100k miles, 1.75" BB, 32 x 11.50 BFG MT KM2s, custom- fabbed bumpers etc.. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/daily-driver-5-9-build-thread-bumpers-tube-rockers-etc-1222317/ 1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles*** ***Under construction*** 1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear, etc... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/hybrid-cage-build-exo-cage-internal-973910/ |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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This may sound funny, but how is the TC supposed to feel when its engaged? And should have it in 4low, then shut it off the Jeep or can I move it there after its off?
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-HavenSOV Bertha: '91 XJ 4.5 RC, JCR stg 2 Sliders, JCR TC Skid, JCR Stg 3 Rear Bumper, 4.0 HO, Cragar V5's, 31 Dakota M/T, Custom Staff Caring Tubes, Wally World Driving Lights. Kermit: '93, stock right now but will soon have all parts from Bertha. South West Michigan Jeepers |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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That's why I think you should do the adjustment in neutral. You can definately tell when your disengaged.
Bob K |
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