**Greenmachine build** - Page 6

justanotherjpr · 07-23-2009, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basso4735

now that you say that you'll probably have to take out the console soon lol.

No kidding!!

99Greenmachine · 08-03-2009, 03:52 PM

Sorry guys for the hiatus...i only have 2 weeks left before college

in the absence period a few things have happened...

1) We sold our other house

2) Been on vacation

So...got back to the D44 today...started grinding it with a wire wheel...here are some pics...Rust wasn't too bad...only on the pumpkin and axle tube ends really.

This is just to show some of the rust on the ends...

Got happy with scraping some of the crud out with a screw driver

These nooks and crannys could not be reached with the wire wheel

There's still a lot to do...there's a lot of surface area on these bad boys

Ok, so a question for you guys...do you think I should raise the shock mounts while I've got the thing off? I'm thinking of this...

http://jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=736516

Would this be a good idea or should I just leave the stock location alone? I figured this would be a cheap mod...what do yall think?

justanotherjpr · 08-03-2009, 04:00 PM

Absolutely raise the shock mounts, or your axle tube may end up like this:

this used to be attached there:

Definitely recommend just cutting the stockers off then trimming to be shorter and re-welding like that write-up shows. I have a set of double shears a friend welded on for me this weekend and mounting the shocks is a total PIA now.

99Greenmachine · 08-03-2009, 04:15 PM

So wait...shock mounting is worse? Would I still have to use OME Long Travel shocks?

Also, they must be Perpendicular to the leaf spring mount correct?

justanotherjpr · 08-03-2009, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99Greenmachine

So wait...shock mounting is worse? Would I still have to use OME Long Travel shocks?

Also, they must be Perpendicular to the leaf spring mount correct?

Not sure I understand the bolded part. Shock mounts that hang down are liable to be torn off. Raise them and keep them safe.

I have these on the axle tube and do not recommend them. Because the bolt pases through the bracket, then the bushing, then the bracket again, it is double shear. The shock is difficult to mount. Stock style with a stud and a nut (single shear) is much easier.

99Greenmachine · 08-03-2009, 04:35 PM

i meant actually putting the shock on...your post above thoroughly explains it

im gonna leave it single shear for now. I think just being raised will help mucho on the trail

Thanks...

justanotherjpr · 08-03-2009, 04:45 PM

Mounting the shock is now a total PIA. Takes about 5 minutes of wrestling the shock when it used to take 15 seconds.

Edit: I will eventually cut these brackets off and go back to a single-sheer type setup.

99Greenmachine · 08-03-2009, 05:23 PM

What I ended up with...

Still need to cut off the mounts and have re-welded on...haha that should be fun seeing as how I don't know how to weld

The studs need to get knocked out and the ends need to be cleaned up...that's about it. I'll go over it with the mouse right before I clean and paint.

I'm heading to the beach again tomorrow...but this time I'm also picking up some 4.56 gears for this bad boy

. I'll also be picking up my D35 Disc brakes later in the week so HOPEFULLY should be working on that this weekend.

justanotherjpr · 08-03-2009, 05:48 PM

Looking great! I painted both my axles with cheap flat black from Wal-Mart for .96 each. The stuff sticks pretty good if the surfaces are clean, touch ups are easy and cheap. So far, its hanging on just as good as the hammerite on my rails, stiffeners, and bumpers.

99Greenmachine · 08-03-2009, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

Looking great! I painted both my axles with cheap flat black from Wal-Mart for .96 each. The stuff sticks pretty good if the surfaces are clean, touch ups are easy and cheap. So far, its hanging on just as good as the hammerite on my rails, stiffeners, and bumpers.

Well, I'm going to spray it with self-etching primer then with a top coat of flat black Rustoleum...I'm not big on glossy looking stuff. Plus, when I get my Riddler diff cover, I'm going to have that looking nicer than the housing haha.

FitchVA, im doing burnt orange/black scheme (sound familiar

) on my diff covers...i can't wait

cornbrizzle · 08-03-2009, 06:37 PM

ruff stuff double shear all the way

I run them and I would recomend them (double shear ) any time over single shear stock mounts . mine are easy to change shocks maybe not as fast but a whole lot stronger ,weld a nut on the back side so all you have to do is run the bolt thru and tighten, a whole lot stronger and I hope thats what you are aiming for !!! while you have the rear end out and spending that much time on it don't mount the single shear

just my .02, but it's your jeep do what you want

Brizzle

justanotherjpr · 08-03-2009, 06:38 PM

I have only mounted shocks once in my new ruff stuff double sheers and it was HORRIBLE. Maybe I'm just a wuss?

**RockRodHooligan** · 08-04-2009, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99Greenmachine

Well, I'm going to spray it with self-etching primer then with a top coat of flat black Rustoleum...I'm not big on glossy looking stuff. Plus, when I get my Riddler diff cover, I'm going to have that looking nicer than the housing haha.

FitchVA, im doing burnt orange/black scheme (sound familiar

) on my diff covers...i can't wait

Just a recommendation, but I'd do semi flat over flat, for one reason.... it doesn't hold dirt nearly as bad. I've got a buddy with a TJ and Tube fenders that he wanted me to paint flat black(I tried to talk him into semi flat too), but now he's constantly complaining how dirty it always looks. Besides it's a 44, you WANT people to see it!

As for the shock mounts, I've got to say stay single sheer. It's easier to put shocks in and it still allows the shock to pivot correctly with the axle(better for the bushings). I'm going with JKS on the MJ44, since I don't have shock mounts to work with.

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=FAB_922&Store_Code=JKS01&Categ ory_Code=FABParts

99Greenmachine · 08-05-2009, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrod_hooligan

Just a recommendation, but I'd do semi flat over flat, for one reason.... it doesn't hold dirt nearly as bad. I've got a buddy with a TJ and Tube fenders that he wanted me to paint flat black(I tried to talk him into semi flat too), but now he's constantly complaining how dirty it always looks. Besides it's a 44, you WANT people to see it!

As for the shock mounts, I've got to say stay single sheer. It's easier to put shocks in and it still allows the shock to pivot correctly with the axle(better for the bushings). I'm going with JKS on the MJ44, since I don't have shock mounts to work with.

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=FAB_922&Store_Code=JKS01&Categ ory_Code=FABParts

Hooigan, I'll probably do the semi-flat now that you mention it

I've seen those JKS shock mounts before but I still think that I'm goin with the homebrew kind haha

Went to the beach yesterday and in addition to having a good time, scored these Yukon 4.56 gears for $115 NIB!!!!

So now this axle build is OFFICIALLY LEGIT

99Greenmachine · 08-05-2009, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cornbrizzle

ruff stuff double shear all the way

I run them and I would recomend them (double shear ) any time over single shear stock mounts . mine are easy to change shocks maybe not as fast but a whole lot stronger ,weld a nut on the back side so all you have to do is run the bolt thru and tighten, a whole lot stronger and I hope thats what you are aiming for !!! while you have the rear end out and spending that much time on it don't mount the single shear

just my .02, but it's your jeep do what you want

Brizzle

Thanks, for your advice, but I'm sticking with the single shear. I really don't envision me breaking a raised single shear mount...the welds will prob break off first