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Old 07-05-2009, 12:41 AM   #16
ajxj9197
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1997 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Bloomington, Illinois
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ya, the offroad "scene" isnt to big around here so its diff. then most places. O well.

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Old 07-05-2009, 12:07 PM   #17
99Greenmachine
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So to continue with some of the mods I've done...here is the sound deadening project I did. I used sierradrifter's write-up FWIW

SOUND DEADENING

I thought that it would be a worthy investment to try to make the XJ quieter going down the road. All the research I did pointed to the fact that it did indeed work.

First step is to pull everything out. Seats, carpet, seatbelts. I actually stripped 3 of my seatbelt bolts trying to get them out...those suckaz were TORQUED!!!

Starting to... rear carpet out:





I also recommend disconnecting the negative cable on the battery, because I didn't and ran my battery down This can be a very time consuming process...I did it over spring break which roughly lasted over a period of about 5 days...around 5-6 hours a day. It was a long mod.

Here is what the sound deadening was that was installed back in Toledo:



As you can see, not much was added. It was mainly put over the hump which contains all the drivetrain and, correctly so, most of the noise.

I started with the doors first.

Don't have a pic of the Front door naked...but here it is with the Peel and Seal on it:



NOTE: What I learned the hard way is that this was TOO MUCH deadener...you need to trace the panel of the door with a sharpie or some kind of mark to know where to stop. The Driver Side had excess whereas the passenger didn't.

Here is the rear door:

Naked:



And covered:



Also note that you need to prep the surface well with some kind of cleaner.

You just repeat for the other side. After I got the doors...I got in and turned on the radio and even if it wasn't quieter on the road...the sound was MUCH BETTER

BTW are these speakers stock???




After the doors were done, we went to town on the main floor of the XJ. Sadly I didn't take many pictures but it is pretty much just unrolling it at this point. The doors require a lot of little skinny pieces and the floor area is mainly just unrolling it into place.



Last roll



After I got the floor covered, I decided to add some heavy matting to try to help it even more like sierradrifter had done. I used an old playmat and put it down...

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Old 07-05-2009, 12:08 PM   #18
99Greenmachine
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More:



Everything back in...and ready to roll



Conclusion

After spending over $75 on this...I think that it was worth it. Riding down the road is a lot more quiet and pleasant now. Would I do it again??? Hmm...idk it was A LOT OF WORK to pull everything out and get it all back in.

There is still more to be done. It could probably get a whole lot more quieter IMO.

-Firewall
-Rear liftgate
-Roof
-Inner fenderwell

All of those need to be done as well.

I would recommend that anyone wanting to do this buy the bulk sound deadener off Ebay because I made around 5 trips to Lowes hardware buying P&S. I always needed more haha

Overall though I'm happy.

Discovered this while I was under there and hopefully helped stop it:



It was on the passenger side where I left the window down when it rained last summer

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Old 07-05-2009, 12:09 PM   #19
99Greenmachine
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A comprehensive list of every area of a car and how it relates to road noise...This is a good read for those of you who want to make your Jeep quieter.

1. License Plate : ( Reduce License Plate Rattle )
The license plate in front and rear can cause numerous odd and annoying noises. eDead v1Č, v1SEČ or v3 can be used to remedy this issue. ( 4 Sq. Ft. required for deadening front and rear license plates )

2. Inner Firewall : ( Lower Road Noise )
The inner firewall is a location where a lot of noise noise from the engine bay can occur. Many vehicles depending on their design may experience excessive road noise from their vehicle due to a poorly insulated FireWall. This is very common in most of today's coupes, 4 doors, and SUVs. eDead vČ1, v1SEČ or v3 can be used to remedy this issue. ( 10-15Sq. Ft. Required for deadening inner firewall in most vehicles ).

3. Vehicle Floor : ( Lower Road Noise ) - ( Increase ride comfort ) - ( Lower Floor Resonance )
The vehicles floor is a obvious culprit of road noise as the road is always directly underneath it. Deadening the flooring can reduce standing resonance, ride noise, and overall quietness of your vehicles interior.eDead v1Č, v1SEČ or v3 can be used to remedy this issue. ( 30-60Sq. Ft. required for flooring most of today's vehicles flooring ).

4. Vehicle Roof : ( Reduce wind noise) - ( Reduce Vehicle Roof Flex )
The main reason to deaden your roof in most of today's vehicles is to cut down on wind noise. We only recommend v1SEČ or eDead v3 for this application. Normally 1 Gallon of eDead v3 can sufficiently deaden a vehicles roof or 50Sq. Ft. of v1SEČ.

5. Vehicle Doors : ( Improve Midbass ) - ( Reduce Road Noise ) - ( Lower Panel Vibration )
Deadening your vehicles doors can be the most effective place to start and concentrate your initial deadening efforts. Doing a good job on your door installation can not only increase the dynamics of your loudspeakers installed in those doors but it can also drastically cut down on the amount of road noise in your vehicle. eDead v1Č, v1SEČ or v3 can be used to remedy this issue. ( Plan for about 10-15Sq. Ft. to effectively deaden each door depending on how large your doors are ).

6. Inner Wheel Well : ( Reduce Road Noise ) - ( Lower Panel Vibration )
The wheel wells are the obvious place to concentrate some time. As they cover the main object of noise next to the engine. Your tires. With many of today's low profile tires this is a extremely efficient way to lower road noise. By place a few layers of deadening on your wheel well the results are immediately apparent. eDead v1Č, v1SEČ or v3 can be used to remedy this issue. ( Plan for about 5-10Sq. Ft. of deadening for each wheel well depending on the vehicle ).

7. Trunk Lid : ( Reduce Road Noise ) - ( Lower Panel Vibration ) - ( Increase SPL )
The trunk lid can be a point of many headaches for many of today's drivers. It shakes, rattles, and otherwise makes a lot of strange noises. Using eDead here can reduce sound outside the car from your subwoofer system, increase bass SPL Levels, and lower overall lid resonance. eDead v1Č, v1SEČ or v3 can be used to remedy this issue. ( Plan for about 10-15Sq. Ft. of deadening for the trunk lid or hatch of most vehicles.).

8. Trunk Wall : ( Reduce Road Noise ) - ( Reduce Exhaust Drone ) - ( Increase SPL )
Your trunk walls are the entrance area for a lot of exhaust noise. Especially in a lot of today's performance tuned vehicles. It is also the barrier between your subwoofers and the road. This means you can actually increase SPL inside your vehicle by keeping your bass IN your vehicle. eDead v1Č, v1SEČ or v3 can be used to remedy this issue. ( Plan about 20-30Sq. Ft. for your trunk walls)

9. Trunk Floor : ( Reduce Road Noise ) - ( Reduce Exhaust Drone ) - ( Increase SPL )
Deadening your trunk floor has the same advantages as doing the walls and the main floor of your vehicle. However this is the MOST effective places to deaden to rid yourself of exhaust drone. If your vehicle is resonating or vibrating in your trunk due to a aftermarket exhaust or if you would like to lower your road noise in your vehicle. This is the place to do it. eDead v1Č, v1SEČ or v3 can be used to remedy this issue. ( Plan about 20-30Sq. Ft. for your trunk floor depending on size of your vehicle. )
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:11 PM   #20
99Greenmachine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Greenmachine View Post


You can see the excess P&S on the driver side door in this pic...that's what i was talking about matching the trim
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:27 PM   #21
jjg214
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i was thinking of doing some sound deadening, my plan was bedliner then P&S and then another layer of bedliner. idk now though since you eluded to how much work it REALLY is...
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:57 PM   #22
Wazzuppiggy156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjg214 View Post
i was thinking of doing some sound deadening, my plan was bedliner then P&S and then another layer of bedliner. idk now though since you eluded to how much work it REALLY is...
If you're going to bedline it you're already going to be doing most of the work anyway...You have to basically strip the Jeep to bedline it...
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:04 PM   #23
99Greenmachine
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It just takes a while for prep. If you had someone helping you, it would be a lot quicker...i was working on it by myself. Bedliner probably should've been the route I went but I think it ended up ok
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Old 07-05-2009, 06:57 PM   #24
konatown69
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do you have an idea of how much sq ft of sound deadedning you used, im seriously considering doing this. I was thinking of using dynamat though. any opinions?
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:03 PM   #25
basso4735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Greenmachine View Post
You can see the excess P&S on the driver side door in this pic...that's what i was talking about matching the trim
couldnt you just run a razor blade along the edge and remove the excess? Or is it stuck on really well?

looks good!
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:52 PM   #26
Jon00XJ
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nice rig


10char
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:26 PM   #27
99Greenmachine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konatown69 View Post
do you have an idea of how much sq ft of sound deadedning you used, im seriously considering doing this. I was thinking of using dynamat though. any opinions?
IIRC, they were 6"x25' which = 12.5 square feet per roll. I think I used about 5 rolls maybe 6 for the doors and the floor. I didn't get the tranny/TC hump covered as well as I wanted...but it got at least one layer most places and I even double layered some of the spots I thought would generate the most noise. SO, prob around 75 sq ft just for doors and floor.

Dynomat is good...like I said, you can usually get bulk Dynomat on ebay for a pretty good deal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
couldnt you just run a razor blade along the edge and remove the excess? Or is it stuck on really well?

looks good!
Thanks, and yea I just didn't want to scratch the paint lol...I probably will trim it up soon although the driver side door is doing it on its own sort of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon00XJ View Post
nice rig
Thanks
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:56 PM   #28
99Greenmachine
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To give you guys a little preview pic...Here's why my winch never worked over the past two years:




Can you say FRIED motor?!?!
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:41 AM   #29
justanotherjpr
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For the winch motor, try a starter/alternator shop. I had my old winch motor rebuild for less than $100. Before you pull your suspension apart, pressure wash the bottom of your Jeep at a car wash..a lot. Then set a yard sprinkler under it for a few hours to get the rest. Don't forget LOTS of PB blaster for at least a few days before hand. Mud in your eyes sucks.
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:22 AM   #30
01ClassicXJ
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And heat is your friend don't be afraid to heat bolts and nuts.
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