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Unread 09-25-2010, 08:20 PM   #1
Climbit
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The Greatest Fender Trimming Write-up EVER!

well, here is my Fender Trimming write-up. it may not actually be the greatest, but since I did it I think it is.

I started on the passenger side front.
I knew I Didn't need much to clear the 33x1050 with 4" of lift.

here is my line in red


I used a 4.5" angle grinder to make the cut.
WARNING: these are rough cuts because I knew I was going to re-attach the factory flares. if you want a really clean look I suggest leaving a little metal past your intended line and sanding it the rest of the way


Once I had cut, I used the cut piece to mark where my new holes would go.


here is what it looks like before the holes are drilled


once the holes were drilled the flare was reattached slightly higher and further towards the rear.


here is where the top of the flare sits


here is a minor blemish that will have to be dealt with. the cuts in the flare for the kick-panel don't line up... oh- well


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Unread 09-25-2010, 08:23 PM   #2
Climbit
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Drivers Side:

The only thing different on the drivers side is that on newer Cherokee's the Washer Bottle must be removed. temporarily


to remove it, remove the fill nozzle and the screw holding it in place


the fill nozzle removed. just pull it out (TWSS)


Then draw your line, or don't. and repeat.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 08:26 PM   #3
XGoBoomJ
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honestly, the BEST BEST BEST BEST tool out there to cut fenders and sheetmetal is one of these..

it gives super smooth edge, cuts like butter, easy to use, legit tool... if you want clean no chips or rough edges this is the tool..

Amazon.com: Grizzly H2867 Electric Sheet Metal Shear: Home Improvement
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Unread 09-25-2010, 08:28 PM   #4
Climbit
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Now for the REARS

for the rear, I didn't need to gain much. so I cut just below the spot-welds, I trimmed a little bit of the plastic flares with a skil-saw and re-atttached them in the factory mounting location. just enough so it doesn't rub at full stuff.

the more you rub, the more you will need to trim.

DO NOT CUT THESE SPOT WELDS OFF.
the body will separate and the world will collapse into a black hole.

many people do the cut and fold- I didn't, Get over it.

here is my line


here is it in relation to the spot-weld


remember you are cutting through twice as much metal in the rear so it will take more time... or discs.


Here is the finished product.


a word of advice= cut slowly through the curves. unless you don't care.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 08:30 PM   #5
XGoBoomJ
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btw u can cut off the welds entirely, just re spot weld em, and silicone/paint over the new cracks!

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Unread 09-25-2010, 08:30 PM   #6
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XGoBoomJ View Post
honestly, the BEST BEST BEST BEST tool out there to cut fenders and sheetmetal is one of these..

it gives super smooth edge, cuts like butter, easy to use, legit tool... if you want clean no chips or rough edges this is the tool..

Amazon.com: Grizzly H2867 Electric Sheet Metal Shear: Home Improvement
Since I was re-attaching the flares, I didn't care about how the cuts looked.


but if I ever go flareless. like say if California changes its laws concerning them, I will get one of those to clean up the edges a little.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 08:31 PM   #7
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XGoBoomJ View Post
btw u can cut off the welds entirely, just re spot weld em, and silicone/paint over the new cracks!

you can't do that if you don't know how to weld.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 08:37 PM   #8
Climbit
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I can be in ze faq now?

Last edited by Climbit; 09-25-2010 at 08:37 PM.. Reason: I can spell
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Unread 09-26-2010, 12:46 AM   #9
1990JEEPXJ
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nice write up man. now i know who to come to when i do mine
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