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Unread 03-05-2009, 02:05 AM   #46
Jonny Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WhiteXJ View Post
Anyone know what spanner wrench he is talking about?
This thing. Most people just use a hammer and big flat screw driver or piece of flat bar, hitting at different points aroud the lock ring to loosen it up. It's on there real tight. I damaged one or two of the vanes when doing mine.


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Unread 03-06-2009, 08:55 AM   #47
99WhiteXJ
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Yeah I ended up finding that diagram in my FSM. My lockring was only on handtight so I didnt even need a tool to get it off. It says to tighten to 55 lb/fts (in/lbs? -will have to check on that), any good way to do that without that special tool?
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Unread 03-06-2009, 02:18 PM   #48
Jon08JK
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Man this is an old thread and the pictures still work, awesome job to the OP for keeping the pictures hosting current.
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Unread 03-07-2009, 05:39 AM   #49
Jonny Jeep
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I just used the same flat steel and hammer I used to get it off. Just kept going till I thought it was about as tight as when I'd started.
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Online factory service manuals (FSMs) and parts lists can be viewed at http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
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Unread 03-23-2009, 04:14 PM   #50
90eight
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I need to do this same repair soon, thanks for a great write-up.

I have a 98, would anyone happen to know the Carter part number? Rock Auto lists the pump and strainers as part # P74186. I only mention Carter because I can buy them at work.
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Unread 03-24-2009, 02:33 PM   #51
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I believe that is the carter number. I just googled "carter p74186" and it comes up with that set on different sites including amazon.
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Online factory service manuals (FSMs) and parts lists can be viewed at http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
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Unread 12-07-2009, 12:47 PM   #52
Fir3Chi3f
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It takes a real man to do this in the snow

Nice write up
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Unread 12-21-2009, 01:44 PM   #53
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Hey folks,

I ended up purchasing a float arm sensor separately on eBay to try and save some money on buying the whole fuel sending unit. Unfortunately, after replacing the pump, filter, and float arm, I'm still receiving a bad a fuel level reading. Talk about annoying. My guess is that the float arm I purchased wasn't for the 19 gallon tank I have despite being assured by the seller that it would work. At this point, I'm just living with the bad reading because I don't feel like pulling the tank again. If anyone knows of any simple fixes that don't involve lowering the fuel tank, I'm all ears.

Brian in San Francisco
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Unread 09-11-2010, 08:14 PM   #54
CDog
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I know this is an old thread, but still great. My 98 XJ got a new pump this afternoon. The pictures and tips here were great!
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Unread 10-28-2010, 10:27 AM   #55
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This thread was EXTREMELY HELPFUL!!! Many thanks to the OP!
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Unread 11-27-2010, 07:51 AM   #56
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I did this due to faulty fuel gauge sending unit. Figured if sending unit piece going bad the pump is also getting worn out. Pump and filter were nasty. That old gas tank fine dirt crap was quite prevalent. Replaced with OEM/Bosch unit. Pricey but they seem to be the longest running pump assemblies. Not wanting to do this again in a few years. So far my fuel gauge is ok. I need to run a few tanks through to make sure.

Actual fuel pump exchange had only one issue. Trying to get the big nut back on and not cross threaded. That was way more difficult than it needed to be.

But here's a secret. Get the button style j- bolts before you start. Mine so rusted each broke when trying to remove their nut. Then it was a real pain to try and find them. Dealer wanted 27 bucks each bolt. I used hook bolts and a bolt extender to grab the heat shield piece. Very secure. Will look for the right button style hook bolts though.
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Unread 11-29-2010, 09:15 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post
Actual fuel pump exchange had only one issue. Trying to get the big nut back on and not cross threaded. That was way more difficult than it needed to be.
I couldn't agree more, what a PITA

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post
But here's a secret. Get the button style j- bolts before you start. Mine so rusted each broke when trying to remove their nut. Then it was a real pain to try and find them. Dealer wanted 27 bucks each bolt. I used hook bolts and a bolt extender to grab the heat shield piece. Very secure. Will look for the right button style hook bolts though.
I DEFINITELY second this. I had to cut one of my bolts that was rust welded on, delayed my at least 30-40 mins. NOTE: these j-bolts are NOT easy to come by! You have to order them and they are about $26. In the great lakes area they were back ordered weeks about a month ago.
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Unread 12-25-2010, 02:42 PM   #58
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Awsome thread, I am about to tackle this job too.

I have one question, I went with the Bosch from Napa and the strainer looks nothing like the original. Did they give me the wrong one? The pump itself is a direct fit.

Any ideas?
img_2954.jpg

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Unread 12-25-2010, 03:03 PM   #59
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There are two strainers used one that sits at the base of the pump within the assembly and another that sits at the base of the assembly. The one in the picture seems to be the second of the two. I know rockauto.com has pictures of the different strainers. Maybe you should get the other one too.

Not sure if it's been linked already or not, but check out the fuel pump repair page at dailydriventj.com which also shows the two types of strainer.
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Rockauto 5% discount code can be found here... http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/products_services.htm

Online factory service manuals (FSMs) and parts lists can be viewed at http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
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Unread 12-25-2010, 03:29 PM   #60
pgv98
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It looks like I will have to make a run to Adavance and buy two new strainers.

The Bosch pump I bought for a 1997 cherokee looks like it has a 1996 strainer on it.

Hope the airtex strainers will fit on the Bosch (14 and 10 dollars).
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