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Unread 10-25-2006, 08:45 AM   #31
r.xj
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Fuel pump

Great post, looks like I will be tackling this project soon. To remove the regulator hose you said just push in on the clips-are these like the transmission connectors where you need an adapter to push on the clips to slide the two off (I hate those connectors) or are they somewhat different and easier. Thanks again for a great writeup.

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Unread 10-25-2006, 10:32 AM   #32
XJ99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r.xj
Great post, looks like I will be tackling this project soon. To remove the regulator hose you said just push in on the clips-are these like the transmission connectors where you need an adapter to push on the clips to slide the two off (I hate those connectors) or are they somewhat different and easier. Thanks again for a great writeup.

They were pretty easy, I didn't need any special tools. Although a spanner wrench would have been most helpful..
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Unread 10-25-2006, 10:50 AM   #33
crashxj
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i have an '01 that recently decided it would no longer start unless i have the pedal down, and as soon as i let up it dies... think it's the same thing?
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Unread 10-31-2006, 01:57 PM   #34
crepr12
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Thanks, I changed mine this weekend.
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Unread 03-14-2008, 11:43 AM   #35
iflyabeech
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Here is a link to Mike's eBay store: http://stores.ebay.com/FUEL-PUMP-KIN...QQsofpZ0QQtZkm
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Unread 05-16-2008, 04:57 PM   #36
NORCALROOTS
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97 Wrangler: What parts should I replace for a damaged float arm?

Hey folks,

I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler with 106,000 miles on it and have not changed out the fuel pump or associated filters yet. Up until I read this post, I didn't know there was a fuel filter for the 97' because I couldn't find a part described as a "filter" anywhere. I'm currently not experiencing any problems with engine cut-out or any of the other symptoms mentioned within this post but I am receiving a faulty fuel level signal. The fault (I'm guessing) is caused by a dent inflicted on the gas tank during an off-roading adventure. Since then I had a shop pop out the dent but my fuel level indicator is still incorrect. My guess is the float arm was damaged and this is why the I'm getting an incorrect reading.

Here are my questions:
1. Is the float arm easy to fix/bend back into position?
2. OR, Should I just replace the whole fuel sending unit due to it's age?
3. In the event I can bend the arm back into place, are the filters available separately by Mike at Fuel Pump King on eBay?

Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Brian in San Francisco
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Unread 07-14-2008, 05:20 AM   #37
Jonny Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NORCALROOTS View Post
Here are my questions:
1. Is the float arm easy to fix/bend back into position?
2. OR, Should I just replace the whole fuel sending unit due to it's age?
3. In the event I can bend the arm back into place, are the filters available separately by Mike at Fuel Pump King on eBay?

Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Brian in San Francisco
The fuel level senders are known to go bad. Contact jeep and see if yours is covered by the sender unit recall - mine was.

As for the filter unit have a look at this thread in the TJ section, they are available seperately $49 from mike, or $29 from another seller. Links are in the thread...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/fuel-pump-problem-check-valve-518111/
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Online factory service manuals (FSMs) and parts lists can be viewed at http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
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Unread 08-16-2008, 03:16 PM   #38
Goldburn
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I just want to say thanks for this post!

I just finished replacing the whole unit. It took me about 4 hours by myself with 1/4 tank full of gas, but that's only because the hanger bolts were less than cooperative. I wound up rounding off the nuts, and then cutting one bolt off with a sawzall. Being a pack-rat, I just so happened to have a spare bolt that fit.

The OP says to use a 9/16 wrench, but mine were 14mm.
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Unread 08-16-2008, 03:36 PM   #39
iflyabeech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldburn View Post
I just want to say thanks for this post!

I just finished replacing the whole unit. It took me about 4 hours by myself with 1/4 tank full of gas, but that's only because the hanger bolts were less than cooperative. I wound up rounding off the nuts, and then cutting one bolt off with a sawzall. Being a pack-rat, I just so happened to have a spare bolt that fit.

The OP says to use a 9/16 wrench, but mine were 14mm.
I rounded my nuts too. Ended up cutting the hanger bolt in half. After trying to buy a new bolt....Ran nuts off using B.F.P. and a vise. Bought new nuts. Welded old bolt back together. Works like a charm...

thats a lot of nuts
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Unread 09-01-2008, 12:17 AM   #40
SamO
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Thank you for the write-up XJ99! It worked perfectly, fixed my problem, and saved me a bunch of money. ($500 from the dealer!) I would buy you a beer if I was old enough


Just one thing to add is that on XJ's with a factory skid plate, it adds a significant amount of time and its bolts are 18mm, a size not found in many socket or wrench sets. Doesn't apply to a lot of people but it stuck a run to the parts store in the middle of my process.
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Unread 09-01-2008, 09:03 AM   #41
GregB_00XJ
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Great write up...
I am stoked to see such clear photos and step by step for something like this. My XJ has 162,000 KM's on it now (around 100,000 miles) so I am sure that this will be a project in my near future.

Thanks for posting!
Greg
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Unread 12-22-2008, 05:42 PM   #42
fatwreck
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I just wanted to let you know that I used this writeup today and it worked out very well. You did a great job with it. Thank you!
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Unread 12-24-2008, 08:13 AM   #43
dandiv
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so if i were to buy the entire module, would it come assembled? jus ttake the old one out and put the new one back in? or would i have to assemble it myself
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Unread 02-21-2009, 08:34 PM   #44
CSCmrwizard
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thanks great info nice job
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Unread 02-27-2009, 10:36 PM   #45
99WhiteXJ
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Anyone know what spanner wrench he is talking about?
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