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Fuel Filter 99 4.0 Cherokee?? 159.98 for the filter alone?

14K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  BrunoS 
#1 ·
Someone in another post said that changing the fuel filter on my cherokee was a cheap and easy job. I went to Advance Auto, and they did not stock a fuel filter. I went to Autozone, and was told it was part of the fuel pump in the tank and not to mess with it. People at Autozone have a history of being retarded. Now I am on the phone with Murrays and it's 159.98. This does not sound cheap, or easy.
 
#2 ·
BrunoS said:
2) out of breath or lean misfire at highway speeds is a fuel delivery problem. First start is your $10 fuel filter, a 10 minute repair for your year. If you can't get enough fuel volume OR pressure, a lean misfire is easy enough to cause. Change out the filter, it needs it anyways...besides, the crud that comes out will amaze you....
This is the post I am referring to
 
#3 ·
I also checked on the fuel filter for my 2000 Cherokee 4.0L. I was told the same thing about the fuel filter being part of the fuel pump. Turns out its true. Guess Chrysler wants you to only replace the filter when the pump goes bad. The price you where quoted may be for the whole fuel pump assembly or it was the wrong part.

Here is a picture of the parts catalog I have for my 2000 Cherokee which shows Item 4 being the fuel filter as part of the fuel pump.

 
#5 ·
There are two filters in the pump module. They can both be replaced without replacing the fuel pump. You can get them both at Advance Auto for about $15 for both and are listed as strainers not filters.

Make sure you buy both of them because they are sold separately.
 
#6 ·
curtjames37 said:
There are two filters in the pump module. They can both be replaced without replacing the fuel pump. You can get them both at Advance Auto for about $15 for both and are listed as strainers not filters.

Make sure you buy both of them because they are sold separately.
Do you have to drop the tank or anything? I don't know anything about jeeps, any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
 
#7 ·
Mike94ZLT1 said:
Do you have to drop the tank or anything? I don't know anything about jeeps, any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
Yeah, you do. It sucks but it was worth it. Fixed my hard starting and stalling around corners problem. It's also a good time to clean out everything inside the tank.

This is the write-up that helped me a LOT when I did mine. It's for changing the pump but will give you a good idea on what has to be done.

Tech/FAQ Sticky said:
 
#8 ·
curtjames37 said:
Yeah, you do. It sucks but it was worth it. Fixed my hard starting and stalling around corners problem. It's also a good time to clean out everything inside the tank.

This is the write-up that helped me a LOT when I did mine. It's for changing the pump but will give you a good idea on what has to be done.
Wow, that looks like a lot of not fun! Thanks for the write up, I'm going to tackle it this weekend.

I went back to Advance Auto and asked for a fuel strainer, but they did not have them. I'm gonna try a few more stores, I have a random intermittent low RPM miss that I am trying to track down, and this is on my list of things to check.
 
#11 ·
#16 ·
Lew360 said:
Yeah BIG changes in the fuel system. '99 doesn't have a return line, the pump, filter and Fuel pressure regulator are all right on top of the tank.

Just a little knowledge for the next customer you help out. :thumbsup:
hey thanx alot.....i learn new things everyday
 
#17 ·


No luck... Thanks for trying though. My problem might not be the fuel filter, who knows? I have an intermittent low rpm miss/stumble between 1500-2000 RPM and it is driving me INSANE. I have my other car in pieces in my garage for an engine swap, my jeep is my driver and I will be SCREWED if I cannot figure this out.
 
#19 ·
sorry about the fuel filter...they put the filter internal in 97 or so, but to remove the pump/strainer you do not have to drop the tank on the XJ. DO get a new mopar gas tank gasket....old one will leak if you do the job without replacing it.

intermittent "flat" spots are also TPS related...but look, it's time to diagnose rather than throwing money at the problem.

if it runs fine when cold (below 160'F coolant temp) without stumble, but is rough in spots like it's out of gas or missing once warmed up, then TPS is a likely culprit. If you full throttle it when all warmed up, then computer will go open loop, run smooth, and then as you back off gas pedal, enter closed loop and use all input sensors (like coolant, TPS, oxy sensor, etc) and start to run rough.

if the fuel flow is good, and the coolant temp is steady, and the oxy sensors are good, next up is sparkplugs, then coil, and then TPS sensor. Bad TPS sensors are usually rough idle, bog, or out of breath/jerky in certain parts of gas pedal motion, depending on where the carbon wipe inside is worn out.

:)
 
#20 ·
BrunoS said:
if it runs fine when cold (below 160'F coolant temp) without stumble, but is rough in spots like it's out of gas or missing once warmed up, then TPS is a likely culprit. If you full throttle it when all warmed up, then computer will go open loop, run smooth, and then as you back off gas pedal, enter closed loop and use all input sensors (like coolant, TPS, oxy sensor, etc) and start to run rough.

if the fuel flow is good, and the coolant temp is steady, and the oxy sensors are good, next up is sparkplugs, then coil, and then TPS sensor. Bad TPS sensors are usually rough idle, bog, or out of breath/jerky in certain parts of gas pedal motion, depending on where the carbon wipe inside is worn out.

:)
No worries about the strainer, I appreciate your help! :cheers2: The engine doesn't seem to care what temp it is, I could just start it up in the morning, and start to leave my subdivision and before I make it to the end of the street it would start acting up. I think I'm gonna check out the TPS sensor, and see where that gets me. Thanks!
 
#21 ·
After some screwing around today I noticed if the car is in neutral and there is no load on the engine, it will rev fine. With a load on it, not so much.
 
#24 ·
youngwon22 said:
I think all automatic cars are like that... though mine is not as noticeable after running seafoam through intake manifold and gas
The transmission has nothing to do with how an engine runs... I'm sure it would still be missing under load if I had a stick or not. This is stupid... The filter and hose assembly for my Vette is $60, and is actually easier to replace. Granted thats probably the only thing thats easier, but still.
 
#25 ·
missing under load is MORE noticable on a stick than automatic. If you work on cars enough, you'll figure out why. no flame...just many years wrenching.

anyways: missing under load is one of two things: lack of fuel delivery at adaquate pressure and flow....easy enough to check...and:

weak igntion system. check the voltage of your battery charging system first, then check for bad spark plug wires. even new wires on rare occurence have a bad one in the box. don't assume all your wires are good. same thing goes for spark plugs...sometimes you get a bad one.

if you've checked out fuel volume and pressure, then:

check battery voltage when running and accelerating. why? your alternator might be going out at higher reves

check all spark plug wires with ohmeter

check all spark plugs themselves

after that....still missing....spend $50 on a new MSD coil #8228. that should cure the problem.

beyond that, it gets into TPS sensor, and if you still miss badly under acceleration....you got me.

i vote on weak spark. a weak spark will idle ok, but can't fire fuel/air mixture under load due to either low voltage at the coil or a ancient coil that fails under load once the motor warms up.

if the miss happens sooner on a warm day, then yup, most likely coil.
 
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