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Unread 06-23-2006, 01:38 PM   #1
87warrior
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Fluids and capacities

After inspecting the recently acquired 89 XJ, it has been deemed worthwhile to build up with minimal rust. The first set will be new fluids, all around.

Do the XJ’s take any special Coolant like the new TJ’s do? How can you make sure the closed system is full of antifreeze? Although it seems to stay right around 200 degrees, the plan is to swap in the newer style radiator/pressure cap set up but for the test runs down the road, the stock setup should suffice.

At 216,000 on the 4.0, is there any special kind of oil that should be run in it? I know that “High Mileage” oil reads 75,000 miles. Heck they are just getting broke in by then!

The transmission still shifts smooth (in comfort mode) and firm (in power mode). However doubting the fluid has been replaced in +60,000 miles it simply seems like a good idea. I tried searching but became extremely confused in what kind of fluid to use the Auto. How would one do a flush at home? I read something vaguely stating that by disconnecting a cooler line, with the engine running, while dumping fluid in you can flush out the system fairly well. What cooler line do you disconnect? Any special tools need? The filter/screen would be replaced after most of the fluid returns to red when flushing the system. How much fluid would need to be purchased for this process?

The t-case is also a confusion area. It has full/part time 4x4. What fluid should be used in it and how much is need?

Since the front axle is going to be saved the gear oil need to be dumped and replaced. I assume it will take about 40oz of oil to fill. What kind of oil should be used in the front axle, synthetic?

The rear end is going to be replaced with an 8.25 once on with 3.55 gears can be found. What oil goes in there, synthetic? Partially off topic, but what Shipping company would you suggest using to ship an 8.25 across the country?

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Last edited by 87warrior; 06-23-2006 at 01:56 PM..
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Unread 06-23-2006, 07:04 PM   #2
severous01
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for the t-case, use tranny fluid. once you drain it, replace the drain plug and remove the fill plug. make sure it's level and fill till it overflows the plug hole. replace plug.

for the radiator, be sure to rince the radiator really good if you use one of the newer ones. if you mix the old radiator fluid with the new it turns out to be a chunky nasty jello-type gel. use regular green or dual-type formula radiator fluid. if you use the newer stuff it'll eat the hoses and seals since they are readied for the green stuff. do not use the red stuff unless you replace all seals and gaskets in the coolant system with required materials.

oil is oil...unless you're having problems you'll be fine running regular dyno oil. stay away from blends and full synthetic unless it's already in there. if you switch now you'll likely have serious problems.

if you check the tranny fluid and it's not red, if it's a rust color or black it needs to be changed. it's probably a good idea to change the filter and leave the rest of the fluid if you decide that the fluid's good.

for the axles, i recently bought a yard-dog and replaced the fluid. i used 1/2 bottle of lucas axle oil and dyno oil. i could have gone synthetic, but it was cheaper. same for the rear, the other half of the lucas and topped off with dyno oil. since you're going with new gears, check the manufacturer for specifications. if you're going with a LSD you may need a specific additive or oil...possibly synthetic. and you can use something like royal purple instead of LSD additives in some cases...like GM additive...which smells like cat piss.
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Unread 06-24-2006, 08:57 AM   #3
87warrior
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Do the axles take any specific weight of oil? I know in my Rubicon, they are real sticklers to get 75w-140 synthetic in there.
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Unread 06-24-2006, 02:00 PM   #4
rob92xj
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Fluids on a 88 should be
Auto trans and t-case uses Dextron
Axles 80W90, using a synthetic would not hurt but not really needed(I use 75W140 synthetic in my 92)
As for the cooling system we found the best way to bleed them is by removing the coolant sensor on the rear of the head on the drivers side. It uses regular green coolant if you want to use the higher mileage coolant like the nrewer vehicles use, flush the entire cooling system and the Mopar 5yr/100000 mile coolant is compatable with the older coolants, but with most of the extended life coolants use only distilled water or it will cause stalagties to form in you engine. I'm planning to use the 100000 mile coolant when I build my stroker as it removes heat better then regular coolant. The best thing you could do is swap out the closed cooling system for an open system.
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Unread 06-24-2006, 02:06 PM   #5
anony91xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob92xj
I'm planning to use the 100000 mile coolant when I build my stroker as it removes heat better then regular coolant.
Funny, I never heard that before. Got a link or something?
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Unread 06-24-2006, 05:35 PM   #6
rob92xj
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DiamlerChrysler proaganda as I was told during my class on the "World Engine" that is currently in the Caliber and soon to be Compass and Patriot. There is a study on it on the web I found one night but I hadn't bookmarked it. There also has to be a reason most manufactures are using it as it cost more money then regular coolant. Also I had a PT Cruiser at work that was overheating after having the system flushed and filled with regular coolant, funny thing is the Cruiser has the worst underhood temps of every vehicle Chrysler builds they make the underhood temps of an XJ seem cold.
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Unread 06-24-2006, 07:21 PM   #7
severous01
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water wetter or royal purple coolant additive is the best and cheapest way to go. dropped my coolant a whole 50 degrees in the Z28. it's good stuff.
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Unread 06-25-2006, 11:01 PM   #8
rob92xj
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Water wetter works really good to help shead some heat I uses to use it in my drag car but if you live in an environment where it gets cold the extended life coolant may be a better choice.
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