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Unread 06-01-2005, 01:10 PM   #1
Thayer
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Flex-a-lite 110 Install Question

So I started installing my flex-a-lite electric fan like...

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke.../cooling1.html

but I ran into a problem with the mounting. For some reason, my radiator is shorter than the fan. With the radiator resting on the stock fan shroud supports (which is pretty much where the radiator ends), the fan peeks up above the top radiator support.



Has anyone had the same thing happen. I guess maybe my 3 core radiator is a bit shorter than stock, since I heard the 110 is suppose to be the exact same height. Should I cut the stock shroud supports and let the fan sit lower than the radiator or should I try to let peek out above and build a shroud? Maybe I can cut my stock shroud and use the top part (the area with the belt routing sticker) as the shroud...?



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Unread 06-01-2005, 01:16 PM   #2
Steve88XJ
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wow that is a huge fan!

are you still going to be able to run your aux fan?

I prefer the triple electric fan setup myself:
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Unread 06-01-2005, 01:34 PM   #3
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Yeah, there is plenty of room for the aux fan. I think the flex-a-lite 110 is actually smaller than the stock with shroud and all. Lots of people on NAXJA say the 110 is too weak, since it only pulls 1250 cfm, while the stock supposedly pulls 2000 cfm. Anyways, I'm still stumped as to how to mount my 110.

I like your setup, nice full coverage. Did you have to make any shrouds?
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Unread 06-01-2005, 02:07 PM   #4
Steve88XJ
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They are on there with the plastic dealies that go thru the radiator to mount them.

I'd like to eventually make a bracket system to mount them more securely and safely for the radiator, but I haven't yet... and I didn't make and shrouds. They cover most of the radiator as they are.

I'm running a GDI 3-core with a converted open cooling system on my '88 w/ those three fans and it doesn't overheat. Gets a little warm, sometimes over 210, but thats in 100+ degree weather with the a/c on and the engine running lean (I got the stock injectors in it temporarily) sitting at a light and it cools right down when I get cruising again.

I drive it like hell too... all the time...

just like anyone else w/ a built stroker engine would.

BTW each of those fans is 900cfm... 2700 cfm total. I don't know how much cfm the stock aux fan pushes, but I REALLY don't think its 900cfm.
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Unread 06-09-2005, 03:59 PM   #5
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So the FAL 110 is finally on and shrouded as well as I can, but the thing isn't all that great. I should have come across this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/vicious-mechanical-fan-electric-118343/

before going ahead with all this, but oh well. I bought the parts a long time ago and they were sitting around, so I had to try and see for myself. Jeeps are built, not bought, right? Anyways, I bought some adhesive rubber moulding to fill in all the gaps between shroud and radiator. There are pretty much no gaps in the shroud now.






First, I set the FAL to come on around 200 and the aux fan operating like stock. With stop and go driving, the temp gauge quickly goes to 220 and the aux fan kicks on. The temp then hovers around 220. With normal city driving, the temp gauge is around 210 or a little above. I did a whole bunch of mods at the same time (water pump, thermostat, tranny cooler), so it's hard to tell what's up, but my temps seemed lower with the stock fan. The weather got hot here (70's to 90's all of a sudden) while I was installing everything too, so go figure. I know the stock fan is better, but my goal was to try and hold the temp gauge at 210 through all conditions, so now I hooked up the aux fan to the FAL controller, so they come on together at a little under 210. I'll have to see how this works and post more later. If this setup sucks, I'm gonna go the way I should have gone in the beginning, triple fans.

Are there any cons to running both fans and not having an aux fan, besides stressing the electrical system?
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Unread 06-10-2005, 06:28 AM   #6
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Ooops, I think I have clearance issues. So it looks like the blades hit that vertical metal strap thing on the radiator. I found 1 of the broken blades on the street, but the other one is MIA. The fan started hitting only when I would accelerate hard from a stand still. Does anybody know why that would happen??? Does the engine move towards the radiator under hard acceleration and push the fan into the radiator??? Or does the radiator move backwards toward the fan?
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Last edited by Thayer; 06-10-2005 at 09:57 AM..
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Unread 06-10-2005, 10:17 AM   #7
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I feel your pain, I just put in a e-fan from a 96 crown vic and am having some clearence issues myself. What I can tell you is that it pulls hard. It actually take a few seconds for it to spool up and shut down. That thing pulls some serious cfm. I think that everyting flexes and gives a bit, so if it is to tight then you will have issues like you did. Good luck with the next e-fan option.

You can dooo et!
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Unread 06-10-2005, 10:40 AM   #8
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Yeah, that FAL 110 spins like mad. The blades are plastic, so they're probably only a like a hundred grams each, but when the blades broke off, the inertia of the unbalanced fan was strong enough to shake the whole jeep. Anyways, before the FAL bit the dust, things were going well with the new setup. In stop and go driving, the temp never really went above 210. Both fans kick on and the temp goes down immediately.

Oh yeah, I'm starting to hate Jegs. The replacement blades from summit, $14, while at Jegs, $33, WTF??
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Unread 06-11-2005, 03:20 AM   #9
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Yeah, I quit using Jegs about 2yrs ago. Bastids! When I had my PermaCool setup, it would hit under heavy acceleration. The motor mounts allow for a little room to move so I just attributted it to that.
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Unread 06-11-2005, 06:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balloo93
Yeah, I quit using Jegs about 2yrs ago. Bastids! When I had my PermaCool setup, it would hit under heavy acceleration. The motor mounts allow for a little room to move so I just attributted it to that.
Oh crap, that's not good. I think I had a good 0.5 inch between the old fan pulley nuts and the flex-a-lite heat shield. If the engine can move that much under hard acceleration, I'm kinda screwed. I think I might have to somehow get more clearence by filing down the studs more and getting low profile nuts.
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Unread 06-11-2005, 08:28 AM   #11
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Do you think my engine mounts are toast if my engine is moving that much, like 1/2" to push my FAL 110 into the radiator?
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Unread 06-11-2005, 04:59 PM   #12
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When I did my fan project I was tight on space between the fan and the pulley from the old mechanical unit. So I removed the nuts off of the old fan pulley. I took this time to mark the center shaft as to where the pulley ends on it. Then I took the pulley off and took a set of vise grips and removed the threaded studs. After they were off I took a grinder and shrtened the center shaft to my mark.

Then I bought some stainless buttonhead bolts from McMaster-Carr. The size on my 98 were 5/16" with a 24 thread pitch and 1/2" in length. This gave another 1/4" - 1/2" of space. This combined with my M.O.R.E motor mounts leaves me very little concern about the engine striking the fan. Hasn't done it in the 11 months since I did the swap. Of course switching the bolts may have been an unnecessary step as the M.O.R.E motor mounts hang onto the engine better than a stripper with a $20.

You can kind of see the end result in this picture:

http://www.leghorncomputing.com/Jeep...n/dcp_0532.jpg
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Unread 06-11-2005, 05:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thayer
Oh crap, that's not good. I think I had a good 0.5 inch between the old fan pulley nuts and the flex-a-lite heat shield. If the engine can move that much under hard acceleration, I'm kinda screwed. I think I might have to somehow get more clearence by filing down the studs more and getting low profile nuts.
I have sinse forgotten what size (1/2" I think) the part of the stud that's threaded into the pulley is. I went to ACE hardware and picked up some low profile bolts and used those to hold the pulley on. Make sure they are only a bit longer than teh threaded section of the stud. That is what finally stopped the contact.

Don't worry about damaging the studs, you can get replacements at autoparts stores for a buck or two.
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Unread 06-20-2005, 08:12 AM   #14
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Thanks for your help guys. I finally got around to fixing the contact problem. I put an angle grinder to the shaft (damn that thing is hardened) and got some button head hex cap screws from Mcmaster. For extra insurance, I also replaced the spacers on the FAL 110 heat shield with a couple of washers, so the gap is less. If this doesn't fix it, I'm going to install some MORE motor mounts.





I still need to try a few heavy acceleration runs to see if I fixed the problem. Cross your fingers! I'll post more later to let everybody know what happens.
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Unread 06-20-2005, 05:29 PM   #15
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Oh yeah, another thing I did was ditch those stupid plastic zip screw tie things that FAL says to use to attach the brackets to the fan. They flex way too much, so I replaced them with 6mm nuts and bolts. The fan is much more quiet now, less of that low rumble vibration sound.
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