[Chocky]

Originally Posted by rstarch345

Nice writeup but it's still way to complicated for such a simple fix. Less than 15 minutes for this way http://soxja.org/images/pics/Bypass/Bypass.html

Really need to search for these things, it's been posted multiple times.

I tried this fix and it didn't work. Hopefully after trying this new one it will work correctly.

I am still getting power from my passenger windows because they can stop the window if I am putting it up or down.

[geewally9]

I just did this and all the windows work now. Thank you so much for figuring this out.

[itasor]

Originally Posted by Chocky

I tried this fix and it didn't work. Hopefully after trying this new one it will work correctly.

I am still getting power from my passenger windows because they can stop the window if I am putting it up or down.

I wouldn't bother...it's the same exact modification, just at a different location on the harness. If you're sure you put the jumper between the right wires (it's a little tricky since there are many the same color), and it still doesn't work, there must be another problem.

[Matt Gertsch]

Did this yesterday and it worked great. Much thanks to AZ Jeff, JBassXJ and itasor.

[Chocky]

Originally Posted by itasor

I wouldn't bother...it's the same exact modification, just at a different location on the harness. If you're sure you put the jumper between the right wires (it's a little tricky since there are many the same color), and it still doesn't work, there must be another problem.

But would I still be allowed to stop the windows from moving on the passenger's switch when using driver's control panel to move the window's down?

IF that isn't the fix, would I be looking at a.....?

[Matt Gertsch]

Originally Posted by Chocky

But would I still be allowed to stop the windows from moving on the passenger's switch when using driver's control panel to move the window's down?

IF that isn't the fix, would I be looking at a.....?

Regulators maybe?

[CherokeeErik]

You can do the same exact thing without taking the door panel apart, the same wires are in a 3 wire connector inside the left kick panel of the drive side foot well

[CherokeeErik]

http://soxja.org/images/pics/Bypass/Bypass.html

[Paul_C]

Originally Posted by Chocky

But would I still be allowed to stop the windows from moving on the passenger's switch when using driver's control panel to move the window's down?

IF that isn't the fix, would I be looking at a.....?

No, the fix eliminates the lockout switch not making contact which is the cause of the problem. If you need the lockout switch there are a few options. Junkyard door switch assembly but that will most likely have the same problem. Repair the lockout switch like I did. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/power-window-switch-repair-writeup-444977/

Or add the lockout switch jumper modification, BUT add a switch inline to the jumper. Then you would keep the original door switch in the lockout position and use the replacement switch to disable the modification. Kind of hokey but an easy solution if you need the window lockout.

[campcollector]

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://thumbs300.1aauto.com/WES/1AWES00060.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowSwitches/Jeep/Cherokee/1AWES00060/737675&usg=__UJdDfTlxNjSWmgZL5qMnWtiKNgk=&h=300&w= 300&sz=6&hl=en&start=1&um=1&tbnid=YPrfEPChTBsCUM:& tbnh=116&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Djeep%2Bcherokee%2Bdrivers%2Bwindow%2B switches%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN


Great details, what about this aftermarket switch for 50 bucks?

[dzignr_tastz]

Well I had this same problem on the '98 Cherokee I just bought and went searching for a solution. Found it!

In my case, I really wanted to keep the stock operation of the window lockout if possible, so I decided to go the route of popping open the driver's control panel to try and fix it first versus doing the jumper mod right off the top. Taking apart the control panel was relatively easy, and it also allowed me to clean out the years of dust that were underneather the door panel. It looks like new now...

However, rather than doing any of the aforementioned/posted fixes, when I took the actual switch apart, I simply pried out the two copper contact tabs inside the switch housing ever so slightly, cut two small pieces of semi-hard plastic from and old baseball card holder I had lying around, and slid them in between the back side of the contacts and the housing... effectively keeping the contacts pushed out a little farther to ensure contact with the two "bumps" on the switch itself.

Everything went back together smoothly (after figuring out how the small bottom spring fit back in), and, thinking my problem was solved, I took the control panel out to test it. Well the switch now worked, but only intermittently. However, I also noticed at this point that the power mirror control lights kept flashing on and off depending on how I moved the connected harness plug, and whether the window operation would work or not work coincided with the status of the lights.

As such, I pulled the control unit back out, popped off the buttons, and pulled the cover off again. Upon further inspection, I found that the two plug prongs that are separated from the rest had actually broken their solder joints from the circuit board and were making intermittent contact depending on the pressure being put on the plug itself. Two drops of solder later, the control panel and windows now work like new again!

Anyway - I just figured I'd post this up as I saw a couple of people here mention the mirror control lights not coming on after doing the jumper mod, so it might be something else to look for (and an easy fix) if you have the skills to heat up a soldering iron. It is also an alternative fix to the contact problem in the window lockout switch itself (if that's, in fact, YOUR problem... which seems to be common) without having to do any soldering or filing.

Either way, I'm hoping my control panel never experiences any more problems due to the fix in my personal situation being an apparently preventative measure - LOL!!





Yeah - I (knowingly) dug up and old thread. But I did so in hopes that others will be able to locate it easier. After all - I did.

[AZ Jeff]

Originally Posted by dzignr_tastz

......

However, rather than doing any of the aforementioned/posted fixes, when I took the actual switch apart, I simply pried out the two copper contact tabs inside the switch housing ever so slightly, cut two small pieces of semi-hard plastic from and old baseball card holder I had lying around, and slid them in between the back side of the contacts and the housing... effectively keeping the contacts pushed out a little farther to ensure contact with the two "bumps" on the switch itself........

As such, I pulled the control unit back out, popped off the buttons, and pulled the cover off again. Upon further inspection, I found that the two plug prongs that are separated from the rest had actually broken their solder joints from the circuit board and were making intermittent contact depending on the pressure being put on the plug itself. Two drops of solder later, the control panel and windows now work like new again!..............


Either way, I'm hoping my control panel never experiences any more problems due to the fix in my personal situation being an apparently preventative measure - LOL!!





Yeah - I (knowingly) dug up and old thread. But I did so in hopes that others will be able to locate it easier. After all - I did.

I did this same fix, the same way. I also noted the same solder-cracking where the switch goes through the circuit board, and did the same solder touch-up with good results.

The repair you describe is only for someone who is used to working on small fiddly little assemblies. It can be tricky getting the switch back together if you are not familiar with such stuff.

[dzignr_tastz]

Originally Posted by AZ Jeff

I did this same fix, the same way. I also noted the same solder-cracking where the switch goes through the circuit board, and did the same solder touch-up with good results.

The repair you describe is only for someone who is used to working on small fiddly little assemblies. It can be tricky getting the switch back together if you are not familiar with such stuff.

My solder wasn't cracked where the switch itself goes through the circuit board (as you can't see the underside of the board, best as I can tell). It was cracked where the small harness plug pins go through it from the back side. Just didn't want any confusion...

And while I'm both electronically and mechanically inclined, it really wasn't a hard job taking the switch apart and putting it back together. In fact, the only potential confusion is knowing which way the small spring goes back in... and with a pair of tweezers, a little common sense, and some trial and error, it's relatively easy to figure it out.

I personally think if you're capable of bypassing the window lockout switch by splicing harness wires (and can manage to do it correctly), you could probably accomplish popping the buttons off, taking out 6 screws, and checking the solder joints at the harness pins as well (to at least diagnose the problem correctly).

Anyway - I didn't see the solder joints on the harness plug mentioned anywhere in here, so I figured I'd add it. Sorry if you had posted it up somewhere else previously.

[SandShark350]

I had the same problem as all of you guys, the three passenger windows did not work from their respective switches and the two rear passenger windows only worked from the the driver door module, however, the front passenger window didn't work even from the ddm. I bought a new driver door module (not from the dealer but from Scotty's Jeep in Fontana, CA for $72 ) and that fixed the two rear passenger windows.

The window lock switch on this brand new module is broken though which pissed me off but I followed the instructions here to do the bypass, yet the passenger window still doesn't work from the ddm and from my passenger door module (pdm) it only goes down, not up. I can supply the plug with power from an external source and it goes up and down just fine thankfully. I have tried two other used pdm's and it goes haywire unlocking and locking all by itself. Does anyone have any ideas??? At first I thought it was a problem with the pdm but since none of the ones I've tried worked I believe its a short in the wiring...and the only place I can get a new pdm is from the dealer for $305

[MossGreen97]

Excellent write up!

I would like to add that sometimes the driver side control switches would stick or operate intermittenly on mine.
I removed the switches,blew out the dust and sprayed them with "electrical contact cleaner". WARNING! do not use electrical contact cleaner on these parts, as they will gum up or some material wil dissolve, causing loss of switch operation . Ask me how I know. Use WD40 instead. It will clean and not cause damage. The switches can be sprayed from outside the door panel. I did this to mine over a year an a half ago and they work perfectly.