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#1 | |
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K I S W
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Fixed the hatch today...
Couple of things..
First, I got tired of the hatch crashing down on my head. Went to Autozone, and picked up a couple of hatch struts around $25 each. Part number: C95771 by Mighty Lift. (Made in the USA) Now the hatch practically opens itself. No real write up needed. All you need is a pole to hold the hatch up, a 10mm, and a flat head to open the clip. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now, up next was the hatch release. I got tired of playing The Fonz everytime I had to open the hatch, especially when I was carrying something, and only have one hand to open the hatch. (need the other to smack it) This is another easy fix, and even easier when your hatch struts work. LOL First take the hatch cover off by removing the screws marked in red with a #2 phillips. The 2 on the hatch handle are Torx T-30, just pop the little plugs off to get to them. ![]() Next, the plastic just pops off much like a door panel.. ![]() Now you'll see the little adjustment for the hatch release. Just move the green clip over, and pop the threaded rod out. ![]() ![]() ![]() Then twist the rod so it comes up. (away from the latch) I think I spun mine 6-8 times, then the hatch started to open every single time. Note #1: Make sure your doors are unlocked, in case you slide the lock to the right. When you go to test it ya don't want to have it locked. LOL Note #2: You have to move the green clip back over everytime you go to test the handle. Otherwise, the threaded rod will just pop out. While your add it, oil the latch to insure smooth operation for years to come.. ![]() Now the hatch works like new. (insert beer smiley here, I'm at the 10 pic limit) (Balloo, or Eric can sticky this if they want to)
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When we do right, no one remembers. When we do wrong, no one forgets. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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The hatch door on my '91 has just started to be a head bumper also. Thanks for the info.
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#3 | |
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K I S W
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Quote:
No problem.... Looks like the part number for a '91 is B95042. http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,B95042/shopping/allResults.htm If you search Autozone, you have to look under 'support lifts'....
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When we do right, no one remembers. When we do wrong, no one forgets. |
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#4 | |
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Universal Cereal Bus
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 5,761
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I kinda like having to hit the hatch...that is my anti-theft system
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Quote:
2001 Cherokee Limited My Build Thread: 6" IRO Long Arms and coils, JKS ACOS, OME 4" Leaf springs w/1.5" Teraflex shackles, RC Shackle Relocation Brackets, ~34" BFG KM2, RC Quick Discos, Fox 2.0 IPF Shocks, Rear Disk Brakes, 60mm Bored TB, Cobra Injectors, Rugged Ridge Header, 2.5" Exhaust with Borla Muffler |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Be careful on your first test run with the new gas struts--I got some off e-bay and the first time I opened the hatch with them installed it nearly delivered an uppercut that would make the UFC highlight reel. Hopefully the struts from Autozone are a little more tame. Oh yeah, and make sure you warn your wife too
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#6 |
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Registered User
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I got my hatch struts online from inner auto, at a discounted price.
Also had to remove and turn the striker 180 degrees to solve the 'hatch banging around' problem. |
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#7 | |
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Universal Cereal Bus
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 5,761
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I just did this and you don't have to turn the screw a bunch, it will actually come out and you can place it in the postion it needs to be.
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Quote:
2001 Cherokee Limited My Build Thread: 6" IRO Long Arms and coils, JKS ACOS, OME 4" Leaf springs w/1.5" Teraflex shackles, RC Shackle Relocation Brackets, ~34" BFG KM2, RC Quick Discos, Fox 2.0 IPF Shocks, Rear Disk Brakes, 60mm Bored TB, Cobra Injectors, Rugged Ridge Header, 2.5" Exhaust with Borla Muffler |
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#8 | |
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K I S W
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Quote:
There goes the security system. ![]() Funny, I've had to open my hatch 5-6 times today, and almost every single time I smacked the hatch out of habit.
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When we do right, no one remembers. When we do wrong, no one forgets. |
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#9 | ||
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Universal Cereal Bus
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 5,761
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Quote:
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Quote:
2001 Cherokee Limited My Build Thread: 6" IRO Long Arms and coils, JKS ACOS, OME 4" Leaf springs w/1.5" Teraflex shackles, RC Shackle Relocation Brackets, ~34" BFG KM2, RC Quick Discos, Fox 2.0 IPF Shocks, Rear Disk Brakes, 60mm Bored TB, Cobra Injectors, Rugged Ridge Header, 2.5" Exhaust with Borla Muffler |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Great write up, because of your pictures and autozone part number, I tackled this job Friday. It took me about 30 minutes, b/c I was doing it by myself and I couldn't get the passenger side strut to line up correctly. I finally pulled the clip out completely and got it on there.
Was not as nearly as hard as I had feared and now it does almost uppercut me when I open it and I actually have to push it down to close too. |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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this is helpful i was afraid of changing my struts but now i know how...i give it a a+ lots of info and i like the picture
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Great thread!
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the write up! that looks super easy! I didnt see the clip on the lower mount which is why I didn't understand how to replace it. I do have a problem though... When I opened my hatch with too much force (fell on my head got mad) the lower mount seperated in two. Is it easy to replace the lower mounts?
tks Mike Quote:
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#14 |
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Senior Member
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OK, it's REALLY unnecessary
to reply with a quote including all those pictures. Try using the quick reply button at the bottom of the thread.Regarding the lower mount, I broke mine also, : so I will be going back to O'Reilly's tomorrow to see if they have replacement clips. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Thanks. Spot On Tutorial!
I did not do the arms that hold up the door, I just did the latch fix...15 minutes. OUTSTANDING directions and pix. Thanks!
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