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Unread 10-13-2009, 01:18 AM   #1
McGlintock
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First time changing differential fluids, need help/advice

Okay, long story short, I took my Jeep to the stealership to have them install a window regulator and motor for the driver's side window, and after they quoted me 2200 dollars for a front and back diff fluid change, front tranny line replacement, front brakes, transfer case fluid change, I told them to not touch my car and went ahead and picked it up after they were unable to replace the window regulator. Unfortunately, this was after I told them to repair my driver's side wiring harness which was apparently bad. That cost 300 dollars for them to put a sleeve over a broken wire, and they didn't even have the common courtesy to put my door panel back together!!!


Anyway, I brought the car back home last week, already replaced the transfer case fluid and repaired the tranny line hose. The total to do both of that was about....15-20 dollars.

The next big thing I have to do is the front and back differentials. I have a 96' Jeep Cherokee Country 4x4 with LSD in the back. Now, I already got the gear oil 75W90 Valvoline, I bought about 4 bottles total, and I got one 7 fl. oz of the friction modifier from autozone for 5 bucks. My question is, do I have to add the friction modifier to both the front and rear diffentials? Or is it just the rear differential? And if so, about how much should I add to both axles or if it is just the rear? From my understanding, some of the gear oils already come with the additive, but I heard that Valvoline doesn't add enough of it so you should add friction modifier anyway. I would also like to know if there is a specific brand of friction modifier I should go with, or if one from a store like Autozone, or Checker's would do the job.

I was told to do 4 oz in the back differential and about 2.5-3 oz for the front differential.

Next question I have, for the front differential, it looks like the fill plug is sort of....box shaped. There's a lot of grime on there, so it's really hard to tell, but it looks like I can't use a regular socket wrench to get that thing loose so I really don't know what to do about that. I haven't checked the back yet, but does any of this sound familiar?

One last question (for now), I bought the axle gaskets and I bought a gasket maker. I want to make sure this thing is sealed in there good so it won't leak. Which ones should I use to ensure proper sealing? I was told I can use both, but do I apply the gasket maker onto housing first, AND then put the gasket on or what?

Thanks guys.

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Unread 10-13-2009, 02:13 AM   #2
phattysrt
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you only need the friction modifier for the rear differential. Im guesstimating about 4-5 oz. of friction modifier for the rear. I've alway used the mopar friction modifier from the dealership, but you could use the aftermarket stuff though. Just make sure it says, "approved for chrysler", jeep, etc. on the bottle.
The front plug i believe was just a 3/8 drive opening on the plug. Just take your 3/8 drive ratchet and loosen it up and remove.
I've always just used the silicone gasket maker on the differentials. Clean the cover and axle mating surfaces and apply a nice thin 1/2" bead along the COVER and reinstall it to the axle.
Hopefully that covers everything,

good luck

aj
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Unread 10-13-2009, 11:01 AM   #3
McGlintock
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Sounds simple enough.

When I want to clean off all the old gasket material, is it safe to use a metal gasket scraper, or should I just buy a cheap plastic putty knife from Ace and just use that to clean it off?
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Unread 10-13-2009, 11:05 AM   #4
imthehink
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You'll be fine with a metal gasket scraper.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 12:18 PM   #5
McGlintock
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Last question. How about the friction modifier? I know for sure I am supposed to put some in the rear diff, but how about the front diff?

And about how much am I supposed to put in each?

Thanks
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Unread 10-13-2009, 01:12 PM   #6
c0ncEpT
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You don't need to add anything to the front as it is an open diff and doesn't have clutches in it.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 06:26 PM   #7
phattysrt
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Just put in about 4-5 oz. friction modifier in the rear.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 06:35 PM   #8
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I always use a gasket on the diff covers, but that isn't neccessary. I add RTV to each side of the gasket and bolt it up. Just don't overtighten the bolts. And add the friction modifier first, then fill till it starts to run out the fill hole and reinstall the plug. On the front just add fluid and no modifier. Enjoy the savings from doing it yourself, along with the piece of mind that it was done correctly.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 06:46 PM   #9
FISTFULL
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You can usually get a gasket for the rear diff. The front came with silicone from the factory. Make sure you follow the directions on the silicone tube for the front diff. You need to run a bead around the cover, then tighten, but not too tight. Let dry overnight, then tighten the rest of the way. Tube tells you how to do it.

If you just run a bead and then tighten all the way, it will mash all the silicone out the sides and it will probably leak.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 08:29 PM   #10
McGlintock
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I have a problem, and I need an answer asap.

I am currently trying to remove the front differential cover, but for the life of me and all the strength in me I cannot get it off.

THe back one posed no issue whatsoever, a simple smack with the rubber mallet knocked it loose.

Please, anyone have any suggestions.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 08:38 PM   #11
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If you have all the bolts out there is nothing else to hold it on other than RTV glue. Just take a large screwdriver and drive it carefully underneath the cover. Do it in a few different places and it should pop off.
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  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
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Unread 10-13-2009, 09:09 PM   #12
winkosmosis
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Lubelocker is easier than RTV and doesn't need to be scraped off next time you change fluids

ROCKCRAWLER.com - LubeLocker
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Unread 10-14-2009, 12:20 AM   #13
McGlintock
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Okay, everything is done. That sucker pops right into 4x4 now, no hesitation whatsoever. I took it around the block, did some swervy turns to get the gear oil all mixed together, didn't hear any strange noises. Drove it in 4x4 full time for a little bit, then pulled in and shut it off.

The whole thing wasn't hard, but it was very time consuming. I was under there for about 5 hours almost. I broke one of my socket wrenches and I am pretty sure that torque wrench I bought from walmart is no good.

Other than that, pretty easy, I went ahead and did rtv sealant plus the actual housing gasket itself as I have been told that for the best seal, this is the way to go.

I've checked under everything and no leaks as far as I can tell.

I am dead tired though. Dead....tired.
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