Fallon (and Dad) Novice Build Thread- '90 Cherry-Okee XJ - Input welcome! - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-28-2013, 10:32 AM   #91
SLO_Ken
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You want that one?
If you guys aren't going to use it, sure. I'll PM you my shipping info, and you can let me know how much you want for it and shipping.

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Unread 08-29-2013, 08:35 AM   #92
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Did you check out Kabowabo's thread?

I think I sent you a link a while back, Jeff has done some great electrical work on his (?)J Comanche.
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Unread 08-29-2013, 09:04 AM   #93
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Scott something I'd have done, and maybe you did, would have been to radius the ends of the springs were you cout them off. The chop saw made a nice square cut but on the outside corners I'd have ground about a 1/2" radius on them. That seems to take some stress off the spring above it making it less likely to break where they meet. Other than that you boys are doing great. Oh and next time get a solid carbide drill bit for drilling spings. If the spring is held solid and you don't let the bit grab as it goes through it will outlast the cobalt 20 to 1.
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Unread 08-29-2013, 02:53 PM   #94
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Did you check out Kabowabo's thread?

I think I sent you a link a while back, Jeff has done some great electrical work on his (?)J Comanche.
Yep, you did give me that lead, and he and I did PM back and forth a bit. He was unable to help with the electrical issues we were having when installing the 4.0 into the 5. I feel MUCH more confident when it comes time to get into Fallon's engine. I have a little background now.

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Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Scott something I'd have done, and maybe you did, would have been to radius the ends of the springs were you cout them off. The chop saw made a nice square cut but on the outside corners I'd have ground about a 1/2" radius on them. That seems to take some stress off the spring above it making it less likely to break where they meet. Other than that you boys are doing great. Oh and next time get a solid carbide drill bit for drilling spings. If the spring is held solid and you don't let the bit grab as it goes through it will outlast the cobalt 20 to 1.
I didn't do that Jim. I did grind the edges to "round" them, across the face, but I didn't radius them. I didn't know what I could do with the springs, and I was afraid to get them hot from grinding. I will keep that in memory for next time. I will also try to find some solid carbide bits. It's not very often that I have to drill hardened steel, but when you do you don't want to spend a couple of days doing it! Thanks, Buddy.
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Unread 08-29-2013, 04:56 PM   #95
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I wonder if you could have the springs "punched" at a steel supplier?
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Unread 08-29-2013, 07:05 PM   #96
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I wonder if you could have the springs "punched" at a steel supplier?
You mean for the center hole? It really wasn't that difficult to drill them with the cobalt bits. I mean, I was expecting it to be just one of those things that you loathe to do, having to go so slow, taking all day. The bits cut pretty fast through the first 2/3 of the pack. A lighter pack would be less time. I broke a bit somehow, and the tip was stuck in the hole. I started with a new bit and immediately broke it too. Wasn't that bad, and it probably cost less (or same) than having a shop setup and drill them.

Don't you have a drillpress?
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Unread 08-30-2013, 12:57 PM   #97
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More action photos of Fallon in... uh... action!

He impressed me again today with his quickness and accuracy. I think the boy has a chance! He burned through a cutting wheel and had to install another one. I left him to do it while I went to the house to eat lunch. He came in shortly, hammer-throwing frustrated, telling me he could not get the new cutting wheel to tighten down on the grinder. So I had to stop eating my delectable sammich and walk all the way back out to the shop to see WHY he couldn't tighten the nut down on the spindle. And I discovered he had lost the bottom portion of the... the... whatever you call it. It's the heavy metal washer/disc that slides over the spindle, then the wheel, then the nut. He lost the bottom part, rendering my grinder useless! I told him to find it, which he later did, in the trash can. HE THREW IT AWAY!! REALLY!?!?!?!? THREW IT AWAY!?!?!?!? #%@!MRGRPH... So he installed it all and cut the metal, and all is well with everything at the Kerrs... for now.

On to the show...


Using my chincy Delta compound miter saw with metal cutting disc. This is not the BEST plan, but it is 4,727,963 times BETTER than the Harbor Freight POS Metal Cutting Saw I bought, broke in 40 minutes, and then was refused an exchange! But enough about crappy Chinese workmanship...



Fallon scribing the steel...



He is cutting the top portion of the shackle relocation bracket. This is what will fit up inside the shackle "pocket"...



p-r-e-t-t-y...



Up in the shackle pocket the distance from side to side is 2 7/8". I cut the first bracket at that width, not accounting for the width of the sides that needed to be welded on. So we had to subtract the combined thickness of the sides and cut two new ones. Since we are using 1/4" stock for the sides, we had to deduct a 1/2".



Fallon preparing the side stock and cutting it with a cutoff wheel. We needed four pieces.




This is what it looks like underneath your XJ. This is the "pocket" that your rear shackle slides up into. The shackle is pinned with a single bolt. I am really thinking that auto mfg charges more than what their product is worth!? I'm thinking I have seen more substantial tool boxes...



And you ride your family around on this, at speed, maneuvering, etc. Wow... But HEY! I'm going to reuse it...



And here is the top/upper portion of the relocation bracket. This will fill the void left by the absence of the shackle. The red line is showing a single, solid steel plate (3/16) that will encompass 4 frame bolt holes for strength. This will keep the upper portion from pivoting on the hanger bolt. And it will make me FEEL better...


I have a call in to Jim Crabtree to get his critique on the design thus far. Want his feedback... but he's gone to town! Waiting...


More to come later...
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Unread 08-30-2013, 06:31 PM   #98
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Hey Scott next time you all cut something on the chop saw turn the material so that the least amount of material is vertical. An example is the 2nd picture. If Fallon turned that tubing 90 degrees the blade would cut through easier. The wider flat area really slows the cut.

So the tubing is filling the void left by the shackle. That looks good. The factory bolt will pass through that, you probably don't need a spacer inside but it sure would make it stronger. Then the plate welds to that and uses those 4 holes to mount up. That looks good too. Might not hurt to drill a couple of 1/2" holes in that to allow water to drain that might get on top of it. Like on each side of that beefy tube. You know how these things rust! One thing on that 3/16 plate. If the new mount you make gets very far away from that tubing the plate might need to be thicker. If it's pretty well centered over the tubing it'll be fine. You've got some room under there and inside the old pocket to gusset that plate, which I likely would do. Just rub some 3/16 material down along that tubing and the plate and it's not going to flex. You do want overkill, right? Let's see what you're thinking on a bracket.
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Unread 08-30-2013, 06:53 PM   #99
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Thanks, Jim. Just what I needed to hear. I'll have more tomorrow.

I couldn't turn the stock 90*. It was too tall for the saw.



Anybody... I could use some ideas on how to construct the shackle hanger...
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Unread 09-01-2013, 03:26 PM   #100
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Here is another update on the BP springs and SRBs. It's going slower than I anticipated... as things always do for me! Plus it hotter'n Hades! PLUS- we splashed the boat so the boys could fish a little, and that ALWAYS takes a ton of time to get things ready.

At the weekend end, I wore out my shoulder from lifting spring packs, the ramp upped its launch price to $10, and the boat quit just after launching!

But it's all good!


Clay welded the cap on the spring pack clamp.



Fallon and Cameron are hanging the BPacks on the Dummy car.



The boy really doesn't mind working, and he is excited to finally be working on HIS Jeep!



Fal grinding the spatter off the relocation bracket.



Clay went behind me and checked my welds. Porosity here, too hot there... just what every father needs is his son telling him what he did wrong! But Clay is certified, and he KNOWS what he is doing. I just play at it! This is our seriously overbuilt relocation bracket. The general design was copied from a vendor design. I have seen some MUCH simpler setups. But this is also made with material on-hand.



Clay is wallowing out the hole because I warped the plate when I welded everything up. The spring eye bolt would not thread back into place when the bracket was test-fitted.



In the meantime, Fal pulled the plugs and is cleaning electrical contacts on the Merc. The boys said it quit running. I drain the carb when I store it. The last fuel had Sta-Bil in it. It cranked up and ran fine on the muffs. But it would not go in the river. I cranked it back up on the muffs when I got it home. It would "sneeze" then a puff of white smoke. This is fresh gas and Quicksilver oil. Think I have a misfire??? Any outboard experts out there?



Clay was pretty excited to pull the boat!



Imperial Moth Caterpillar... on a Sycamore tree in the yard.
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Unread 09-01-2013, 09:05 PM   #101
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Anybody... I could use some ideas on how to construct the shackle hanger...
I sent you a PM earlier today with some links...but it looks like you may not need them anymore. Check out the forum though. Lots of traffic.
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Unread 09-02-2013, 02:20 PM   #102
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I think you could improve your mount a bit by adding some diagonal braces between the plate and the tubing. See red lines.

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Unread 09-02-2013, 08:12 PM   #103
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I think you could improve your mount a bit by adding some diagonal braces between the plate and the tubing. See red lines.

Yes Sir. That is in the plan. The gussets won't be that tall as they will not fit up inside the box, but they will be to the top of the bolt hole. Everything above the bolt hole is wasted material, and I could have left it out. I just didn't know that at the time.
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Unread 09-06-2013, 12:13 PM   #104
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More work today. Lots of things going on. First off... the dad-gone Love Bugs are invading! It happens twice a year. It's short-term, but annoying as anything you will ever experience, especially when you're hot, and they climb around on you! I have the shop fan on high... it helps some.





Fallon is removing this headliner. He will cover it in RealTree and have it ready to go into his '90. Pulling out the seatbelt bolts.



Cameron is scraping off headliner foam. This is nasty! But comes off easily.



Progress.



Speaker box reinforcement. Planning to use this in Fal's XJ. It'll be a real kicker if none of this work fits his XJ!!



Measuring from the frame to find the distance for the shackles. I will transfer this measurement to the bracket.



Measurements transferred.



The angle iron mocked up with the shackle.



The angle on the right is thinner stock, so I will reinforce it with some 1/4" I have. This isn't necessarily the "Pro" thing to do, but I have momentum, and it costs nothing. I don't want to stop.



I need to drill the same hole through all three pieces. Going to tack this together.



Both sides tacked together. I will grind off the welds to separate them. In the meantime, it will hold everything together while I drill bolt holes.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 08:40 PM   #105
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Just have some gussets to do on the brackets and I'm done. They are mocked up in the donor XJ now, with the axle bolted back up and the roller tires on it. Definitely have some lift, but I don't know how much. The 14" trailer tires make it look like a lot! I will drag it up onto a trailer then remove the axle/springs, etc while on the trailer. Then off to the JY.

Here are the current pics of the relocation brackets.


Bracket mocked up.



Since Clay's not home I did the welding.



Ready to wire-wheel.



Hung up and Osphoed. Prime and paint later.
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