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#1 | |
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Member
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extended brake lines
I've searched.....
I have a 2-2.5"BB. (I'll probalby go to 3" one day...)When I flexed the rear I noticed the rubber brake line gets tight as suggested by many posts. I haven't flexed the fronts yet, they look like they have a lot of "line" left. I don't like the idea of bending the metal in front so I'll probably extend them too. I called Advance Auto and got quotes on the 95 YJ lines. $35 ea for front and $17 for rear. I find SS for about $29 more total. 1. Do those prices sound right. I thought the fronts would be cheaper. 2. In my old Porsche racing days I put SS lines for firmer pedal but they were a little trickier to install, had to make sure they didn't kink & twist when the suspension moved. For that reason I am reluctant to put them on something that I flex the cr*p out of. 3. Plus, in the old days they were not DOT approved, but I notice the ss jeep ones today are DOT approved. I this something I need to make sure of? 4. I'm a one man bleeder. If I use a vaccuum can I put some thick grease around the outside of the bleed screw to prevent false air from coming through the bleed screw, or could that contaminate the brake line? thanks!
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2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0 L Selectrac (NV242), Automatic (AW4) Dana 30 Front, Chrysler 8.25 Rear RE 2.5" Add a Leafs, 2" Poly spacers, Bilstien Shocks = Vibes Class III hitch, Airlift Ride Control airbags Blue Ox Tow Plate with 2" front receiver, hitch shakle D-ring Yakima Roof Rack, JKS quicker disco's B&M Tranny Cooler, JCR Stage 2 Sliders Home brew rear bumpstop extenders 95 YJ extended brake lines, Speed Bleeders Revo 30x9.5 Gorilla locks |
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#2 |
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dont know what to tell you about the rear, mine are just a hard line that comes off the body to a distrubution block on the axle then to the two hard lines that run one to each brake drum. as far as the front, why dont you want to straitin the hard lines? thats what most do. then just drill a hole where the line ends up and use a selftapping bolt to hold it in place. thats the easyest and cheapest, you only have to buy two selftapping bolts.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Those front line quotes are way to high for standard YJ front lines. I can almost gaurantee you those are lines for ABS. Just get the nonABS lines. The difference between the two is the ABS lines have little plastic clips for the ABS lines. Zip ties are cheaper or if you have ABS you can take the clips off your old lines. That rear line is about $5 too high, but not too bad. Check OReilly. That's where I always get mine for customer installs, and the fronts are usually about $15-18 and the rears are $12-15. Those front lines they quoted you are the wrong ones, I am sure of it.
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#4 | |
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Quote:
I'll go that route. Thanks any comments on the bleeding?
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2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0 L Selectrac (NV242), Automatic (AW4) Dana 30 Front, Chrysler 8.25 Rear RE 2.5" Add a Leafs, 2" Poly spacers, Bilstien Shocks = Vibes Class III hitch, Airlift Ride Control airbags Blue Ox Tow Plate with 2" front receiver, hitch shakle D-ring Yakima Roof Rack, JKS quicker disco's B&M Tranny Cooler, JCR Stage 2 Sliders Home brew rear bumpstop extenders 95 YJ extended brake lines, Speed Bleeders Revo 30x9.5 Gorilla locks |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Are they stock YJ lines? Do you use both front and rear?
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[COLOR="Black"]96 Cheorkee Sport - 6.5" Lift, with 33X12.50 BFG MT's, big bumpers [/COLOR] |
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#6 | |
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Quote:
that's what I'm lead to believe searching posts
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2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0 L Selectrac (NV242), Automatic (AW4) Dana 30 Front, Chrysler 8.25 Rear RE 2.5" Add a Leafs, 2" Poly spacers, Bilstien Shocks = Vibes Class III hitch, Airlift Ride Control airbags Blue Ox Tow Plate with 2" front receiver, hitch shakle D-ring Yakima Roof Rack, JKS quicker disco's B&M Tranny Cooler, JCR Stage 2 Sliders Home brew rear bumpstop extenders 95 YJ extended brake lines, Speed Bleeders Revo 30x9.5 Gorilla locks |
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