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Unread 05-31-2004, 09:38 AM   #1
PetesPonies
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evaporator replacement--did it :o)

and without removing the dash. What I job that would have been. Why can't the engineers design things for easy removal. Tha answer? They can, but don't. Anyway, I replaced the evap by taking out the glove box and making some access doors ) Then replacing the pieces/securing them and sealing. Was about a 2 hour job. Anyone else do this?

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Unread 05-31-2004, 11:34 AM   #2
400lbguerrilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PetesPonies
and without removing the dash. What I job that would have been. Why can't the engineers design things for easy removal. Tha answer? They can, but don't. Anyway, I replaced the evap by taking out the glove box and making some access doors ) Then replacing the pieces/securing them and sealing. Was about a 2 hour job. Anyone else do this?

I would love to know step by step how you did this. I need to do it but I am not familiar with the location of the evaporator or how to do it exactly.

I have been needing to do this for quite a while.

Thanks, for your help
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Unread 05-31-2004, 12:27 PM   #3
Kamaaina
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First of all, what year XJ do you have? Did you have to cut through the box to get at the core? I changed mine about two years ago by ripping the entire dash off and the damn thing is leaking again. I'm just thinking about putting a 30 pound bottle of R134a on the front seat and running a hose to the suction port and crack the valve open when the system gets low (just kidding). I'm really not looking forward to doing this job again so your post has caught my attention.
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Unread 05-31-2004, 01:27 PM   #4
PetesPonies
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yes I cut the back of the box open and removed the evap. I had to remove a small section of the plastic lower dash, where the glove box mounts. I use a soldering iron to melt the plastic back together on the box, then sealed it with body sealant. I should have taken some pics, but didn't. I have a 97 Cherokee.
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Unread 07-16-2004, 01:05 PM   #5
dewaynehasty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PetesPonies
yes I cut the back of the box open and removed the evap. I had to remove a small section of the plastic lower dash, where the glove box mounts. I use a soldering iron to melt the plastic back together on the box, then sealed it with body sealant. I should have taken some pics, but didn't. I have a 97 Cherokee.

I need to do mine...2000 classic. I'm going to try your method. I'll take photos!
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Unread 07-16-2004, 02:49 PM   #6
PetesPonies
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Originally Posted by dewaynehasty
I need to do mine...2000 classic. I'm going to try your method. I'll take photos!
I also used some sheetmetal and strengthened the lower dash by riveting a piece across both cuts. This was after I welded the plastic back together. The repair is totally hidden, you would never know. There has been no problem at this point either in any way. I was a good decision )
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Unread 07-18-2004, 06:04 PM   #7
dewaynehasty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PetesPonies
I also used some sheetmetal and strengthened the lower dash by riveting a piece across both cuts. This was after I welded the plastic back together. The repair is totally hidden, you would never know. There has been no problem at this point either in any way. I was a good decision )
I have the glove box off and most of the surrounding dash. I was wondering how I was going to slide out the evaporator with the glove box mount in the way...I will cut it as you did.

I'm ready to cut into the evaporator housing, but am really unsure where to cut! I have taken a photo. Can I email it to you so you can perhaps help me out?

My work email is dhasty@corp.precisionaire.com

also...

How do you undo the 2 pipes in the engine compartment that go to the evaporator????

I'm close to success or complete failure!

Thanks
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Unread 06-17-2009, 10:06 PM   #8
BILL G
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Has anyone else done this and how did it go.I am about ready to try this method but would like some feedback.Thanks Bill
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Unread 06-17-2009, 10:17 PM   #9
99Greenmachine
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HMMM...sounds interesting
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Unread 06-25-2009, 09:10 PM   #10
BILL G
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I just did this.Replaced the evaporator in under 2 hrs,took it to the AC shop had it vacumed,checked for leaks and charged.A/C works great and you can't tell box has been cut.Total cost New evap core $124.00,A/C shop charge $88.00.Total time involved including time at A/C shop under 3 hrs.
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Unread 06-25-2009, 10:39 PM   #11
cademan04
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i just changed mine out recently, using the "entire dash destruction" method. as far as removing the lines connecting to the evap core, your local parts store will carry the tools. i forget the exact name, but something like fuel line or vacuum line tool. its an odd tool but once you understand the concept of how those hoses connect its pretty straight forward how to get them apart. i bought the set of 4 sizes. one of the lines used one of the sizes no problem. however, the other line i actually ground down the "blades" of the tool so it would slide into the gap and under the spring easier. as far as guaging where to cut the housing box, once you are looking at the box with everything removed you should be able to see how the box is somewhat molded to the shape of the backside of the core.
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Unread 06-26-2009, 08:16 AM   #12
dmm219
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This can work, but be careful, it also does not address the root cause of the problem...gunk, debris and clogging of the water output of the heaterbox (ie, your new evap core will be leaking again in a couple of years). You also are unlikely to get good sealing around the evap core by doing it this way.

I'd still stick to pulling the whole box out, giving it a complete cleaning, getting all the gunk out, replacing the heater core while it there...and knowing the system will work well for the life the Jeep.

The evap sits perpendicular to the firewall. If you run the Jeep and have the air running...fell under the box, one long section will feel cold (this is where the evap core is), and one will feel hot (this is where the heater core is...sits more parrellel to the fire wall).
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Unread 06-26-2009, 06:43 PM   #13
BILL G
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I really doubt my evap will be leaking again in a couple of years.I have probably got a better seal around my evap core than most.There is no reason to pull the dash unless your heater core is bad.Wasn't much crap in my heater box.If I would have to replace the evap core in a few years it will only take me 1/2 hour the next time.A/C is blowing 40 degree air from the vents on max cool.
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Unread 06-26-2009, 07:26 PM   #14
dmm219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BILL G View Post
I really doubt my evap will be leaking again in a couple of years.I have probably got a better seal around my evap core than most.There is no reason to pull the dash unless your heater core is bad.Wasn't much crap in my heater box.If I would have to replace the evap core in a few years it will only take me 1/2 hour the next time.A/C is blowing 40 degree air from the vents on max cool.
I don't know how you'd get a good seal. The foam sealer fits around all sides of the evap core. The pressure from closing the box equally around the evap core is what seals it properly. There is no way to do this if you are only sliding in the new evap.

That being said...it should still last a while...if I have one go again (near the end of life on my Jeeps)...i'll probably do this as well...evap cores however...are not cheap...
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