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Unread 05-25-2007, 12:37 PM   #1
Lkhoyt
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Engine compatibility

I have a 2000 cherokee with 89,000 miles with a 4.0 It has about 5 psi oil pressure at idle and 25 at 1700 rpms verified on 20w-50. I am a leaving to Mexico from Minnesota in september and I need reliability. I have a friend who said he will give me a 4.0 from a 95 with 135,000 on it. I am just wondering if the block and head would be compatible with my manifolds and sensors. I really just need some help i searched for days and cant find any info? I got an amazing deal on this truck and it has a brand new transmission so it will be perfect once its fixed. I was also wondering if you guys think I should put bearings in the motor I already have instead or not. It already has a sort of diesel sounding knowck at low rpms but drives great down the road. Thanks for all the help you guys are great.

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Unread 05-25-2007, 03:22 PM   #2
bee guz
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Why don't you just put a new oil pump in it, if it doesn't have any rod bearing noise, just pull the mains and have a look, if the mains are OK, just put a pump in it, don't buy rebuilt, buy new.

My old YJ had low oil pressure, I pulled the pan and checked the mains and rods, they were a little worn, but I was building a plow jeep, and I didn't care that much, the engine had 135K on it, it had low pressure at an idle, so I put a high volume pump in, I had 60 to 70 psi on a cold idle, and 40 psi at hot idle, and on a roll on a cold engine the guage was off the scale.

I plowed with this jeep for 8 years, I plowed from whenever the snow stopped, untill I was done, usually 8 or 9 hours, I sold it last year, and the guy is still plowing with it, this engine had weak rings, and used a quart of oil per snow storm, but it stayed together, I wish I still had it, the big plow truck I bought,isn't half the fun to plow with.

I should cost you a lot less, to put a pump in it , then to change the engine, and then you still don't know anything about the engine your buying, if your jeep isn't useing any oil, and the engine don't sound that bad, give it a shot, a pump shoud be about 50 bucks(im guessing I haven'tbought one in quite awhile) and the rest of the parts another 50, pan gasket, etc... It should take at least 8 hours, for labor, thats what I figure I had in my yj..Good Luck
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Unread 05-25-2007, 04:31 PM   #3
88wagon
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I hope your not reading oil pressure off the factory gauge cause those are way off.
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Unread 05-25-2007, 04:59 PM   #4
severous01
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well, if you're going to be removing all the caps and checking the bearings, may as well replace them. it's only 30 bucks for a bearing kit...and it's cheap for the crush-micrometer. it's a thin nylon string you crush with the bearing and measure the width to test bearing clearance...10 bucks at any serious auto parts store.
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Unread 05-25-2007, 07:02 PM   #5
1990BlueXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by severous01
well, if you're going to be removing all the caps and checking the bearings, may as well replace them. it's only 30 bucks for a bearing kit...and it's cheap for the crush-micrometer. it's a thin nylon string you crush with the bearing and measure the width to test bearing clearance...10 bucks at any serious auto parts store.
I agree and another name for that thin nylon string he is describing is called "Plastiguage". If the bearings are within specs then just do the opil pump and see. Less than $100 to invest and a days labor versus about 5 to 8 times the money and at least 10 times the labor.
It's up to you.
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Unread 05-25-2007, 07:44 PM   #6
severous01
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it's been so long since i've even though of plastiguage i forgot what it was called. well, i'm giong to be rebuilding my camaro's engine soon, so i'll be looking for some, and a ring filer, and a nice pulley puller, engine hoist and stand....bunches of stuff.

any way. you should also purchase a new oil pump and driveshaft if you're going through this as well......and now's a good time to do the mains, front and rear.
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[COLOR="Lime"]soon to be[/COLOR] 4.11 gear and and a ford 8.8 LSD rear and herc'd interior
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Unread 05-26-2007, 08:59 AM   #7
Lkhoyt
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How hard is it to do the mains? I am a little weary of this engine because the guy before me drove it with like 2psi at idle for a long time. I feel like everyhing is going to be worn out. I am also afraid of the head cracking because it is an 0331. When I changed the plugs on it the had a slight green tint and some red chunks on them. The motor I would be putting in is from a 95 and has 130xxx on it would it even be compatible? Should I atleast take the head off of it and put it on my engine? Also does anyone have a step by step on bearing replacement? I just want to make the right decision thanks for the help guys.
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Unread 05-26-2007, 07:20 PM   #8
severous01
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130k on these engines is like 40 on a v-type engine...straight engines are reliable...if you lube them

doing the mains will be hard. it will take you about 3 hours to remove the pan, but once you do you could have all rod/crank bearings swapped out in a matter of about 45 minutes. firstly, remove the pan. then, start with #1 at BDC and remove the cap on the bottom...2 bolts. do any other's that are at BDC at this time, or that you have access to. you'll need to remove the cap, spin the motor until you can access the rod bearing. loosen it up and pull it out. replace with proper bearing. spin the crank back to the bearing surface, or pull piston down onto crank. put a piece of plastiguage in there, put the bottom cap on and tighten down...pull it off and measure. should be between 1.5 and 2.0 thousandths. if it's not you'll need new bearings that will put you in that range. lube with either oil or other assembly lube and put the cap back on. do this for each cyl.

that's it...but it wont fix your piston ring problem if you have one. and now's a good time to replace the oil pump too.
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[COLOR="Lime"]soon to be[/COLOR] 4.11 gear and and a ford 8.8 LSD rear and herc'd interior
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Unread 05-27-2007, 08:56 AM   #9
Lkhoyt
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Any other suggestions? or ideas of what to check? any common problems? Thanks
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Unread 06-08-2007, 09:49 AM   #10
Lkhoyt
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I need more Help

I am still wondering because I have a 95 donor engine I can install or take parts off of. I dont know if it will swap in to the 2000 accessories or manifolds. Does anyone know? I was also wondering about the Coil pack ignition and how I would swap that to the older head? Is there any other concerns I should have? Should I just swap the head over on to my engine now? I just dont know whats causeing my oil pressure to drop so low its starting to sound like a diesel. I really need some help I hope someone else has done this. Thanks a lot
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