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Unread 02-13-2015, 07:41 PM   #1
svshaw82
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Engine break in question

So, when i first start up. Do I let it idle till warmed up, then run to 2000 RPMs, or do I run the RPMs right from start up?

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Unread 02-14-2015, 05:47 AM   #2
CCKen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svshaw82 View Post
So, when i first start up. Do I let it idle till warmed up, then run to 2000 RPMs, or do I run the RPMs right from start up?
Go straight to 2,000 - 2,500 RPM and keep it there for 20 minutes. Vary the RPM between 2K and 3K. You can do the 20 minutes in 10 minute intervals. Run for 10 minutes, shut down, check for leaks, check coolant level in reservoir, start back up-straight to 2,000 RPM, run 10 more minutes.

Be prepared.

Watch your coolant temp closely. If the coolant system hasn't burped the temp will exceed 210 pretty quick.
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Unread 02-14-2015, 05:36 PM   #3
FairlanePhil
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Originally Posted by CCKen View Post
Go straight to 2,000 - 2,500 RPM and keep it there for 20 minutes. Vary the RPM between 2K and 3K. You can do the 20 minutes in 10 minute intervals. Run for 10 minutes, shut down, check for leaks, check coolant level in reservoir, start back up-straight to 2,000 RPM, run 10 more minutes.

Be prepared.

Watch your coolant temp closely. If the coolant system hasn't burped the temp will exceed 210 pretty quick.

Good post.
Before startup you should add an oil additive with Zinc. CraneCams break in oil or equivalent. Any flat tappet motor should have this added.
Also put a fan in front of the radiator You will build heat fast at 2K RPMs
When done, change the oil to dump out any moly lube. Drive 500 miles and change again.
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Unread 02-14-2015, 08:29 PM   #4
svshaw82
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Yeah, I'm planning to add a break in additive. I bought the Comp 68-232-4 so i will be using their break in additive.

Good to know that I go right into the 2k rpms. My only problem is I don't have a tachometer. lol.

I'm hoping I can burp the system well enough so I don't have that problem.

Any other suggestions for a good break in? After my first oil change should I keep adding a zinc additive?
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Unread 02-14-2015, 09:32 PM   #5
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Some guys do with muscle cars but I do not think you need to add any. I use Valvoline Race oil in anything I care about with a flat tappet cam. I have had many 70s era cars and that's what I do FWIW. It still has the ZDDP. You can probably find a cheap dash tach to hook up if you are worried about the RPMs

I scored a brand new Jeep crate motor from a buddy who worked at Ed Schmidt Jeep in Perrysburg Ohio. I asked him the same questions and he said don't worry about it. However I did what I posted above for my break-in (mostly because I wasted a new 460 once doing it wrong) This is what he told me, in 03 there was a recall on camshafts on TJs he and the mechanics would pull the grills and radiators and swap them in the parking lot when the bays were full. He said he did a couple hundred cam swaps and all they ever did was start them and check for leaks. The next time they ran the customer drove them home.
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Unread 02-14-2015, 09:41 PM   #6
svshaw82
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Well, I agree about the zinc. I don't think I have the budget to use racing oil for my break in, lol! So I might as well use some store brand 10w30 with some heavy zinc additive.

For the tachometer, I just started surfing Ebay for a cluster swap. I have one of those dummy clusters now ore then likely will be a good upgrade anyway.
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Unread 02-15-2015, 01:36 AM   #7
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Great read in regards to oil for a 4.0: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rote...essing-188168/

Skip to post #8 if you just want to see the numbers....

- Justin
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Unread 02-15-2015, 05:13 AM   #8
FairlanePhil
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Originally Posted by svshaw82 View Post
Well, I agree about the zinc. I don't think I have the budget to use racing oil for my break in, lol! So I might as well use some store brand 10w30 with some heavy zinc additive.

For the tachometer, I just started surfing Ebay for a cluster swap. I have one of those dummy clusters now ore then likely will be a good upgrade anyway.

with your additive there is no real need for VR1 for break in. I do use it afterwards though for daily use on my classics
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Unread 02-15-2015, 05:19 AM   #9
FairlanePhil
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Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy View Post
Great read in regards to oil for a 4.0: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rote...essing-188168/

Skip to post #8 if you just want to see the numbers....

- Justin
wow, good read. I wonder if that Valvoline "Premium" is the VR1?
Oil seems to get reformulated every few years as I drop in and out of the car hobby. I used to run Rotella T in everything but there was a big blowup on the Ford forums about them reducing the zinc in it about 10 years ago
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Unread 02-15-2015, 03:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FairlanePhil View Post
Oil seems to get reformulated every few years as I drop in and out of the car hobby. I used to run Rotella T in everything but there was a big blowup on the Ford forums about them reducing the zinc in it about 10 years ago
Yea, you definitely have to stay on top of the formulation changes.

- Justin
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Unread 03-02-2015, 08:17 PM   #11
FairlanePhil
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Any updates? How did the break in go?
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Unread 03-02-2015, 08:52 PM   #12
Charley3
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I watched an episode of Gas Monkey Garage were they decided to save money by using cheap store brand oil (Oreiilys I think) plus ZDDP additive to break-in a new motor instead of using expensive break-in oil. They ruined that motor.

When they got a replacement motor, they used the expensive racing/break-in oil with no problems.
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Unread 03-02-2015, 08:58 PM   #13
Charley3
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I used to use ZDDP additive, but it didn't stay suspended in the oil. It settled out of the oil. So I quit doing that.

IMO, if you want more ZDDP, buy an oil that's already formulated with it in the oil.
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Unread 03-02-2015, 09:42 PM   #14
svshaw82
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I haven't ran the motor yet. I just got the trans bolted to it.

So now your telling me I can't use any oil with the zddp additive?

Well I guess it's a good thing I'm hearing this now, am I supposed used the oil that's $15 a quart?

Seems like a waste to just drain after 30 minutes...
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Unread 03-02-2015, 11:52 PM   #15
Charley3
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I'm not telling you what to do. Do whatever you want.

I'm just telling you that I would use the expensive racing or break-in oil because it's a sure thing. I think cheap oil plus adding additives is a gamble, IMO.

I explained my reasons. However, others will have other opinions.

The cost of the expensive break-in/racing oil is cheap compared to the cost of your engine.
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