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Unread 11-23-2011, 04:27 PM   #16
TheMiddleMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
I've got the factory wiring manual with a Ground Distribution page in it.

There are 2 points on the left inner fender.

There is the engine dipstick tube stud. SUPER IMPORTANT!!

There is the ground to the lower diagonal dash brace to the left of the steering column.

There is one in behind the trim panel where the spare tire mounts.

The one on the instrument panel brace grounds a ton of things. Probably too many things as a matter of fact, given it's poor mounting point on the brace with a self tapping screw. I remove the screw that it's held on with, extend the wire, using the same gauge or bigger, and terminate it to the stud near the fusebox.

There are also grounds from the engine to chassis, notably the poor one from the back of the head to the firewall but that wouldn't affect your dash lights. Not that the engine to chassis grounding shouldn't be addressed. I'm working on a write-up for that in the near future.
First off, being 6'3" and trying to bend under that dash...sucks!!

Moving on

I cleaned the dipstick one, no change, but glad I got that one done.
For the dash brace, you said beside the steering column, do I have to take the dash trim off to get to it, or can I see it from underneath? I couldn't see anything obvious when I jammed myself under there with a flashlight.

Thanks!

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Unread 11-23-2011, 05:08 PM   #17
cruiser54
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No need to remove anything except your hat. LOL. It's a black, round diagonal brace to the left of the stering column.

Since you'vew developed an interest in grounds, how about adding a #4 cable from the firewall on the driver side where that crappy braided cable attadhes and run it over to the intake manifold? Clean the firewall attaching point to bare metal while you're at it.
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Unread 11-23-2011, 08:33 PM   #18
TheMiddleMan
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Since you'vew developed an interest in grounds, how about adding a #4 cable from the firewall on the driver side where that crappy braided cable attadhes and run it over to the intake manifold? Clean the firewall attaching point to bare metal while you're at it.
I knew the brim of my hat was getting in the way of something

I am going to swap out the braided cable, it had it's day, but oil is winning the battle with that one. I'll be swapping that out on the weekend, and hopefully get a better look at that brace while I'm at it.

Thanks Cruiser.
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Unread 11-23-2011, 09:24 PM   #19
cruiser54
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Just run it from the firewall to the intake manifold. No sense screwing around with it on the back of the head.
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Unread 11-23-2011, 09:31 PM   #20
TheMiddleMan
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Just run it from the firewall to the intake manifold. No sense screwing around with it on the back of the head.
Do you think that would be easier?
I was going to do a straight swap with new connectors/wire on the existing ground points. They aren't corroded and thought it might be quicker using the established spots.

Where exactly on the intake manifold would you put it, and would it make any difference performance wise to move the contact points?
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Unread 11-23-2011, 09:54 PM   #21
cruiser54
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I go to the rearmost fuel rail bolt. Works as well as the rear of the head and doesn't get oily like the rear of the head. Plus, you can get a cable from the parts store with a 3/8" lug at each end easily. If you use the headbolt, you need one with 1/2" lug on one end.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 11:21 PM   #22
TheMiddleMan
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Ok, on to attempt #837

I found the dash brace ground, finally. Turns out the brim of my hat was what was blocking my view. That and a bunch of chaotically bound wires

.

So that ground is all good, and I went through my instrument panel and there is no issues there, inner panel grounds are good (could only find one). But still a stuck indicator, etc... Minus having used a voltmeter yet, does this sound like it's an issue with the power at this point, not a ground?

Appreciate all the help. If you're ever in Vancouver, let me know. I owe some people some beer.

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Unread 11-28-2011, 05:17 AM   #23
cruiser54
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Actually it's above the dash brace on an unpainted metal part of the dash panel. I researched this yesterday since alot of people have asked about it. attached is my first drat of a write-up on how to improve the instrument panel ground.

Improving the Instrument Panel Ground

The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it.

This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.

The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.

Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal.

Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point.

Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.

**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
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Unread 11-28-2011, 04:30 PM   #24
TheMiddleMan
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I don't know if this is a tell or not, but when my hazards are on (no other lights on) the rear blink in sync, but the front blink out of sync.

Moved the dash ground, still same issue

Going to be trying the voltmeter in the next couple days here, hopefully.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 05:43 PM   #25
cruiser54
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Front blinker sockets could be corroded or a bulb isn't seated properly. The blinkers ground on the driver's side inner fender under a tapping screw.
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Unread 12-02-2011, 11:55 AM   #26
TheMiddleMan
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So I have gone through and adjusted all the ground points to where they are solid and clean. Cleaned the lamp housing. Still no change.

My next shot at this is going to be to start at the lamp and work my way back through the line and make sure the wires are good along with the harness, etc...

Any suggestions on the best way to go about this, or just open it up and follow the line?
The wire covering is old and snapping so I was going to take the front end off and clean/redo what needs replacement.

Sound like a good route to go?
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Unread 12-02-2011, 02:19 PM   #27
cruiser54
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There's a plug on the driver side inner fender kinda under the air filter housing. I'd check that next.
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Unread 12-02-2011, 04:28 PM   #28
Carl48
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There's a plug on the driver side inner fender kinda under the air filter housing. I'd check that next.
See my post (#15)...this connector can be a corroded mess.
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Unread 12-02-2011, 04:31 PM   #29
cruiser54
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See my post (#15)...this connector can be a corroded mess.
I agree. Obviously he hasn't followed your sound advice yet. I gave him a nudge. LOL.
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Unread 12-02-2011, 05:23 PM   #30
TheMiddleMan
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I agree. Obviously he hasn't followed your sound advice yet. I gave him a nudge. LOL.
Nudge acknowledged

I am going to check that out this weekend, since my current repair time is restricted by how long my lunch hour is.

Why do I feel like I just got scolded by my Mom

Thanks for your help guys!
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electrical issue , grounds , light dash electrical

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