Driver's door hinge repair - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
crosschecker
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1995 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: upstate ny
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Driver's door hinge repair

Looking for pictures of a repair for the driver's door hinge as it is cracking all around the hinge and the door is starting to sag. I understand the basics of the job but I'm more comfortable doing it if I can see the actual repair. Thanks.


'95 XJ 4.0, 2wd converted to 4wd, manual and stock
'96 XJ 4.0 Country, Auto (The new kid)(now in need of an engine)
'99 WJ 4.0, stock
'96 ZJ 5.2 Limited
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 03:31 PM
4.0H.O.XJ
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I dont have pics right now, but heres the basics.

1) Remove front fender.
2) Ensure door is closed tight and aligned properly.
3) Drill a hole through centeer of hinges on the A pillar side.
4) Run a sheetmetal screw deep into the center of that to draw it in
5) Grind crap off from around hinge.
6) Lay a handful of "1 beads of MIG weld around it, cooling in between beads so as to not warp hinge or burn jeep to ground.

......Prime and paint. Hang fender. Go wheeling.
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
crosschecker
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I'd rather cut out the whole area and weld in new metal. That's the repair I'd like to see, how much to cut out and what's behind the hinge to weld to. Welding the fatigued metal isn't the way I want to go.

'95 XJ 4.0, 2wd converted to 4wd, manual and stock
'96 XJ 4.0 Country, Auto (The new kid)(now in need of an engine)
'99 WJ 4.0, stock
'96 ZJ 5.2 Limited
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 04:53 PM
4.0H.O.XJ
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Yours must be pretty bad, then. Mine only had a few cracks on the top of the upper hinge and was not sagging yet.

There is no inner structure to weld to, It is about 6 layers of sheetmetal bent over, folded and spot-welded from the factory where everything meets there (inner fenders, A-pillar, firewall, cowl support, dash structure, etc) that forms together make a solid post, unit-body style. Mine was an easy fix, but mine were'nt nearly as bad as yours must be. My repair has lasted over 3 years 75K miles and I hope yours does as well.

Maybe you can get up in there and brace it with some flat stock or channel iron.
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 05:11 PM
xjfever
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http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoDoorHinge.htm

  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
crosschecker
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Location: upstate ny
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Thanks for the info. From what you're telling me, I can probably cut out the affected area and slide a plate in behind the whole thing, open a few holes and then plug weld the plate. After that I'll do what you suggested and weld the piece to the new plate and the cutout.

'95 XJ 4.0, 2wd converted to 4wd, manual and stock
'96 XJ 4.0 Country, Auto (The new kid)(now in need of an engine)
'99 WJ 4.0, stock
'96 ZJ 5.2 Limited
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