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Unread 06-18-2011, 11:25 AM   #1
WKdeuce
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Malvern PA
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DIY: Clutch Master & External Slave Cylinder Replacement

Tools:
  • 1/2" deep well socket
  • extensions
  • needle nose pliers or small screwdriver

Removal:
  1. Remove (2) 1/2" nuts/studs from slave cylinder to clutch housing
  2. Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing
  3. Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips
  4. Verify clutch master cylinder cap is on tight
  5. Remove (2) 1/2" clutch master cylinder attaching nuts, one from inside above clutch pedal, other from engine bay below master cylinder
  6. Remove cotter pin holding clutch pedal to master cylinder push rod
  7. If pedal pin is equipped with bushing, inspect, replace if worn
  8. Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through engine compartment
    (I positioned a drain pan below, cut the line, drained the fluid into it by opening the MC cap, and slid it right out)
  9. Disconnect clutch pedal position wires
    (mine did not have these)

Assembly:
  1. Be sure master cylinder cap is on tight
  2. Position clutch linkage components in vehicle
  3. Work slave cylinder downward through engine bay so that hydraulic line is tight to body, parallel to brake & gas lines
    (Ok, the line on mine did not want to fit between the brake booster and the seam at the dash panel/cowl. I had to get a little ugly on it with pliers so that the line would go down behind there. When you take yours out, see if it fits through there, and do what you need to before putting the new one in.)
  4. Position master cylinder in dash panel
  5. Attach master cylinder push rod to pin on clutch pedal
  6. Install and tighten clutch master cylinder attaching nuts, tighten to 200-300 INCH pounds.
  7. Insert slave cylinder push rod through clutch housing opening and into release lever. Be sure cap on end of rod is securely engaging in lever. Check this before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
    (Don't take the white plastic piece off the slave, it's designed to break off inside the first time you use the clutch.)
  8. Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching nuts/studs, tighten to 200-300 INCH pounds.
  9. Secure fluid lines in body clips
  10. Connect clutch pedal position wires
    (mine did not have these)

Exploded Views:







One piece, non serviceable, clutch & slave cylinder assembly:
Don't take the white plastic piece off the slave, it's designed to break off inside the first time you use the clutch.



Other pics:







Where I hacked the body panel for clearance, because I was too lazy to touch the master cylinder:



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Unread 06-20-2011, 06:38 AM   #2
WKdeuce
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huh. No comments...
For anyone having intermittent clutch issues, weird pedal feel, or leaking, I really recommend taking an hour and doing this.
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Unread 06-20-2011, 08:54 AM   #3
XJH-007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben1.8t View Post
huh. No comments...

Uhhhh..........<pats on back> Good job!

Too bad you hacked up the engine bay for such an easy fix. If you had spent 10 more min loosening the brake master it would have been a cleaner install.

You wanted comments.

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Unread 06-20-2011, 09:08 AM   #4
avbcon12
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What brand/ part number Master/ Slave cylinder did you purchase?
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Unread 06-20-2011, 06:29 PM   #5
WKdeuce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJH-007 View Post
Touche Sir.

Quote:
Originally Posted by avbcon12 View Post
What brand/ part number Master/ Slave cylinder did you purchase?
RHINOPAC/WORLD CAR Part # PS0112

From Rock Auto, found a coupon code too for 5% off till the end of July:
58568684072636

I got the cheaper of the two. Rhinopac. There was also a Sachs for $20 more.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...parttype=10290
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Unread 11-21-2011, 09:36 PM   #6
Brg0012
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I wanted to say Thank you for such a great write up, I had been dragging my feet doing this for the last month of so. I order the same part from rock auto and It was a pretty easy install, took about an hour to do.
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Unread 10-22-2012, 10:47 PM   #7
straightsixjeep
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Really awesome write up, I will be doing this very soon. Did you just have to refill the system after installing? Did you have to bleed, purge, or prime the system?
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Unread 10-28-2012, 03:18 PM   #8
WKdeuce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straightsixjeep View Post
Really awesome write up, I will be doing this very soon. Did you just have to refill the system after installing? Did you have to bleed, purge, or prime the system?
Nope. It's a sealed unit. When you push the clutch the first time, the tab on the slave cylinder breaks, and then it's good to go.

Also... like XJH-007 pointed out... maybe you don't hack the body behind the brake master.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 01:43 PM   #9
JeepinPanther
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I gots an 85 XJ with the 2.5/5speed manual. I can -see- the slave.. barely. How the flip do I get to that sucker without dropping the whole shebang? I'z got it on a driveway where certain people wouldn't take kindly to me doing anything visably major so If someones got any tricks for this I'd LOVE to hear it so I don't has to take it to a shop
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Unread 03-06-2013, 08:08 PM   #10
Flyordie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinPanther View Post
I gots an 85 XJ with the 2.5/5speed manual. I can -see- the slave.. barely. How the flip do I get to that sucker without dropping the whole shebang? I'z got it on a driveway where certain people wouldn't take kindly to me doing anything visably major so If someones got any tricks for this I'd LOVE to hear it so I don't has to take it to a shop
I have the same setup, just with the 4-speed. Replaced the whole system with a solid steel line... new slave and master for under $50. Went with Wagner for the brand. Moved the bleed valve to the top of the engine bay for easy bleeding as well. :-)

Its a knucklebusting job, just get a good extension and angle joint. Bench bleed the system before putting in though, it will save you lots of time. :-)
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Unread 03-30-2013, 10:31 AM   #11
JeepinPanther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyordie

I have the same setup, just with the 4-speed. Replaced the whole system with a solid steel line... new slave and master for under $50. Went with Wagner for the brand. Moved the bleed valve to the top of the engine bay for easy bleeding as well. :-)

Its a knucklebusting job, just get a good extension and angle joint. Bench bleed the system before putting in though, it will save you lots of time. :-)
Wow. So no dropping the tranny? Did you take anything else out to get to it? Maybe i just didn't look at it rit but it seems pretty well crammed back there. I could barely fit my wrench in there to bleed the system (which only made the clutch problem worse..)
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Unread 07-16-2013, 05:43 PM   #12
CascadeWanderer
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External Slave Trick for 80's Cherokee

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinPanther View Post
I gots an 85 XJ with the 2.5/5speed manual. I can -see- the slave.. barely. How the flip do I get to that sucker without dropping the whole shebang? I'z got it on a driveway where certain people wouldn't take kindly to me doing anything visably major so If someones got any tricks for this I'd LOVE to hear it so I don't has to take it to a shop

If you remove the center console on the inside and then the shifter boot and shifter assembly, the top slave cylinder bolt and bleeder valve are easy to get to. All that is easy to remove and replace, takes only a few minutes. You do need to pull the upper shift boot up on the driver side to access a screw that you cant see for the main center console plastic.
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Unread 07-17-2013, 01:15 AM   #13
Flyordie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinPanther View Post
Wow. So no dropping the tranny? Did you take anything else out to get to it? Maybe i just didn't look at it rit but it seems pretty well crammed back there. I could barely fit my wrench in there to bleed the system (which only made the clutch problem worse..)

Bend a new 2 piece steel line to fit down to the new slave. Put the coupler at the highest point and and voila. No dropping tranny at all. (Btw.. my XJ has the T4 not the AX4. Lol
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