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Unread 02-09-2011, 11:01 AM   #1
scottxj96
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diff fluid and transfer case fluid

Just wondering whats the best brand, type, etc

I'm wondering the difference between atf 3 and 4 and what ever else is out there haha

Thank you in advance!

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Unread 02-09-2011, 11:58 AM   #2
jeepkid03
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For the Transfer Case: Dex III or ATF+4 is fine. ATF+4 is synthetic

For the Diffs: 75w90 for normal use, 75w140 if you tow frequently. Any brand will be fine, and I've had good luck so far with Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil or Coastal gear oil. The more important thing is that if you have a limited slip differential, you must add the additive in with the fluid.
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Unread 02-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #3
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http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/fluids.html
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Unread 02-09-2011, 12:29 PM   #4
scottxj96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepkid03 View Post
For the Transfer Case: Dex III or ATF+4 is fine. ATF+4 is synthetic

For the Diffs: 75w90 for normal use, 75w140 if you tow frequently. Any brand will be fine, and I've had good luck so far with Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil or Coastal gear oil. The more important thing is that if you have a limited slip differential, you must add the additive in with the fluid.
what is the additive?
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Unread 02-09-2011, 12:31 PM   #5
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Friction Modifier

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Unread 02-09-2011, 01:12 PM   #6
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From the JEEP Factory Service Manual

Cherokee Fluid Capacities

Engine Oil
-2.5L (4cyl) - 4.0 Quarts (3.8L)
-4.0L (6cyl) - 6.0 Quarts (5.7L)

Cooling System
-2.5L (4cyl) - 9.0 Quarts (8.5L)
-4.0L (6cyl) - 10.5 Quarts (9.9L)

Automatic Transmission
-4.0L (6cyl) The AW-4 Automatic Transmission uses Transmission Fluid labeled Dexron-III/Mercon.

- Drain and Re-fill = 4 Quarts (3.8L)
- Filter and complete fluid exchange = 8 Quarts (7.8 L)

-2.5L (4cyl) Chrysler/Mopar Automatic Transmissions use ATF+3 or ATF+4 Type 7176

Manual Transmission
-AX-5 5 speed manual - 3.3 quarts 75W-90 GL3 or GL4 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some Owners Manuals)
-AX-15 5 speed manual - 3.32 quarts 75W-90 GL3 or GL4 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some Owners Manuals)
-NV3550 5 speed manual - 2.1 quarts Mopar fluid part # 04874464AA or Snychromax (meets Mopar MS-9224 specs)

The NLGI specs are important - typical NLGI GL-5 gear oil carries added sulphur used as an Extreme Pressure (EP) lubricant. Especially when heated, sulphur is antagonistic to yellow (copper-based) metals - and the synchronizer rings and any bushings in the AX-15 are bronze. Most synthetic gear oils are rated GL-5 and are listed as "safe for use with yellow metals."

Unlike API specs (to API Service SL/CJ-4,) NLGI Service specifications are not reverse-compatible. Well-stocked parts houses will have both NLGI GL-3 and NLGI GL-5 mineral-based gear oil in stock all the time.

If you want to use a synthetic (RedLine, AmsOil, etc.) either check the back of the bottle or check the manufacturer's website to make sure it's safe for use with yellow metal - using sulphur-bearing gear oils usually results in draining your synchronizer rings at your next fluid change...

Transfer Case
-NV231 Part-Time (Command-Trac) - 2.2 Pints (1.0L) Dexron III/Mercon

-NV242 Full-Time (Selec-Trac) – 2.85 Pints (1.3L) Dexron III/Mercon

Front Axle
-Dana 30 - 2.5 Pts (1.2L) SAE 75W-90

Rear Axle
-When equipped, Trac-Lok Limited Slip rear axles require 4 ounces of Friction Modifier Additive

-Dana 35 - 3.5 Pints (1.66L) SAE 75W-90
-Dana 44 - 4.0 Pints (1.89L) SAE 75W-90
-Chrysler 8.25 - 4.4 Pints (2.0L) SAE 75W-90

For towing and off-road use SAE 75-140 synthetic
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Unread 02-09-2011, 01:19 PM   #7
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^^ Great post, thanks.

Related question... I'm about to install a powertrax locker in my 8.25 rear, and I saw the capacity as 2.0L in the manual... well gear oil comes in Quarts... it's something like .94 Liters per quart, so really close. I was going to buy another bottle, but I figured that the stuff that sticks to the walls, etc, will make up for the difference...plus, I'm figuring that the locker will take up a little more room than the spider gears that it's replacing... ? How close is the 2.0L capacity listed in the manual? Is that pretty accurate for the 8.25?
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Unread 02-09-2011, 01:27 PM   #8
MONSooNmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottxj96 View Post
Just wondering whats the best brand, type, etc

I'm wondering the difference between atf 3 and 4 and what ever else is out there haha

Thank you in advance!
What your user manual says.


This thread will be 13098234 years old and still no definitive answer will be had.
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Unread 02-09-2011, 01:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandRover View Post
^^ Great post, thanks.

Related question... I'm about to install a powertrax locker in my 8.25 rear, and I saw the capacity as 2.0L in the manual...
Service the front diff. Buy enough fluid for both.
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Unread 02-09-2011, 04:04 PM   #10
scottxj96
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wow thats perfect. thanks alot!
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Unread 02-09-2011, 04:07 PM   #11
LandRover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
Service the front diff. Buy enough fluid for both.
No.
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Unread 02-09-2011, 04:15 PM   #12
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Why would you want to leave that gunk **** all inside the diff??

One would think that it would be wise to clean it out entirely while you have everything open and apart, but hey it's your jeep. With that mindset, you should save yourself the money and time and just pour that filthy (never changed) used diff fluid back into your diff then just add water if it's a little low
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Unread 02-09-2011, 05:15 PM   #13
scottxj96
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Originally Posted by B2CARPEN View Post
Why would you want to leave that gunk **** all inside the diff??

One would think that it would be wise to clean it out entirely while you have everything open and apart, but hey it's your jeep. With that mindset, you should save yourself the money and time and just pour that filthy (never changed) used diff fluid back into your diff then just add water if it's a little low
hahahahahahh
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Unread 02-10-2011, 09:05 AM   #14
LandRover
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Originally Posted by B2CARPEN View Post
Why would you want to leave that gunk **** all inside the diff??

One would think that it would be wise to clean it out entirely while you have everything open and apart, but hey it's your jeep. With that mindset, you should save yourself the money and time and just pour that filthy (never changed) used diff fluid back into your diff then just add water if it's a little low
Great idea, thanks!

It's never been changed because I've only owned the Jeep for a couple of months...


But let's recap:

Me: "Is the 2.0L measurement pretty accurate?"

Response 1: "do another thing too"

Response 2: "You are dumb because I'm assuming you would do something that only a moron would do."

This is beautiful. Maybe I'll go ask over at Pirate 4x4....


My apologies for providing too much info in the original question. I'll rephrase:


Book say 2L. Book right?
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Unread 05-03-2013, 03:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandRover View Post
Great idea, thanks!

It's never been changed because I've only owned the Jeep for a couple of months...


But let's recap:

Me: "Is the 2.0L measurement pretty accurate?"

Response 1: "do another thing too"

Response 2: "You are dumb because I'm assuming you would do something that only a moron would do."

This is beautiful. Maybe I'll go ask over at Pirate 4x4....


My apologies for providing too much info in the original question. I'll rephrase:


Book say 2L. Book right?
you have been provided with the answer multiple times in this thread. you dont have to rephrase as if we are all morons that dont understanding your question.
If you are putting a locker in the rear end. 1.remove current diff,
2.while you have the housing open and nothing inside give it a good clean. you want to wipe all that SLUDGE out off your diff housing. OIL SLUDGE = BAD. with the housing completely clean it will take 2.0L. BUT while changing the oil in rear diff you may as well do the front too.
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