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Unread 04-24-2012, 07:33 AM   #31
Rytari
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1991 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Parkano, Finland
Posts: 90
I opened the rear cover again, looked and measured that no-slip and found nothing... Gap between locker sides is 4.25mm but i seem to lost my test piece and cannot find how much gap should be.

Fitted couple small washers under both springs that pushes locker pieces apart, seems to be working little better, not locking always but atleast both sides are not releasing at same time so i can drive with rwd.



i cut one piece from chain and weld it to the winch drum, now its easy to attach rope to it, so it wont come loose on the drum and will hold better, i have many times been in trouble when drum is rotating but rope on it wont


tps sensor canhge, old one was so bad that converter wouldnt lock until 1/4Th of the pedal was pressed, so i had tc locked only when driving uphill or accelerating, rather annoying in hwy. with new sensor converter locks like it suppose to and also trans is shifting little better.


And here, new exhaust waiting for the time and (mostly) motivation to be fitted under jeep. Old pipe is so beaten and... new one is dia. 2 1/4" from header to end so it should also breathe little better.

next, more fuel... needs a bit more fuel over 3000 rpm, still thinking that map voltage thing but...

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Unread 04-24-2012, 09:36 AM   #32
chiefbill1959
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I am always looking forward to what you do next to your Jeep. Very interesting thread and it keeps getting more interesting every time you post.
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Unread 04-24-2012, 12:20 PM   #33
Rytari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefbill1959 View Post
I am always looking forward to what you do next to your Jeep. Very interesting thread and it keeps getting more interesting every time you post.
Thanks, writing is so much more difficult than doing so my posts are just minor surface scratch to all what im doing to it, nice to hear that some ppl are reading this, allthouht not much opinions coming, nobody seems to notice or answer those small questions i hide inside my posts
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Unread 04-24-2012, 06:19 PM   #34
chiefbill1959
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If most people are like me, they are sitting in front of the computer scratching their heads and wishing it was them doing all this work.When I have time I will go back and read more closely at your post and try to pick up on the cryptic questions. LOL. But I am sure many here are gobsmacked at your work. It is addictive, like people watching their favorite tv show, we tune in for the next surprise installment of "Rytari- The Flying Finn and his busy toolbox." LOL
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Unread 05-02-2012, 12:02 PM   #35
Rytari
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not got much time to do anything with this now, but something small and useful atleast. its was so damn stupid to open hood every time when i need to use air from the compressor so i installed this air hose connector under the rear seat.

Air line is going on side of frame rail from compressor to rear bumber (ie. tank). so i cut it, fitted some t-piece, took out one sealed "water plug?" under rear seat and routed hose trought it to connector.

Then i used small exhaust clamp to attach connector to that floor/seat support piece. i think it is rather safe place, not been kicked all the time, and rear seat can be both ways, up or folded down and still it can be used.
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Unread 05-03-2012, 12:58 PM   #36
irs009
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Your machine work skills and fabrication are fantastic. I didn't expect much from a "Daily Driver" thread, but it's great. Your truck is great!
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Unread 05-04-2012, 02:22 PM   #37
Rytari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irs009 View Post
Your machine work skills and fabrication are fantastic. I didn't expect much from a "Daily Driver" thread, but it's great. Your truck is great!


Really, this is just my daily driver... going to work and back with it.. and some weekend offroading also, but not much skills needed to do what i have done to this... i think, anyone who has once seen a hammer and spanner can do the same.

but i cant deny that working in metal industry sure helps...

been planning some rear coil conversion.. i want more flex (downtravel), but seems to be little difficult to find suitable arms and springs what to use.
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Unread 05-04-2012, 03:13 PM   #38
Timo_90xj
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TJ rear coils (ie. OME medium duty = ~4" lift), rear links could be self-built - but we've got the stupid laws here in Finland that requires us to use factory- built arms on road-legal vehicles.

As for downtravel, leafs work fine with some mods. If I were to build an XJ with leaf setup in the rear, I'd probably run the same leafs or something similar that what you've got, with shackle relocation brackets and upper shock mounts moved more towards center of vehicle.


..and I can give the same info on offipalsta in finnish if needed
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 05-05-2012, 02:57 PM   #39
Rytari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
TJ rear coils (ie. OME medium duty = ~4" lift), rear links could be self-built - but we've got the stupid laws here in Finland that requires us to use factory- built arms on road-legal vehicles.

As for downtravel, leafs work fine with some mods. If I were to build an XJ with leaf setup in the rear, I'd probably run the same leafs or something similar that what you've got, with shackle relocation brackets and upper shock mounts moved more towards center of vehicle.


..and I can give the same info on offipalsta in finnish if needed
naah... better just hide here whit this issue, not everybody needs to know



you been running with same leafs, and know that pass side is what it is... 50m lower than driver side, and i dont want buy 4th rear leafs to same car anymore, must be some other option.

toyota/rover type control arms are legal, and easy to find but not giving enought flex, if some newer wrangler rear kit would be useful.
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Unread 05-05-2012, 03:11 PM   #40
chiefbill1959
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Come on guys, don't keep all the great info on your setup from our english only eyes. LOL. It sounds like you guys in Finland have some of the same problems we have here in the states with the government "looking out" for our better interest. As much engineering as Rytari has put into his XJ, I'm sure he can build a safe setup. I am still amazed at all the work you have done Rytari. I always look forward to seeing your post and I'm sure you have motivated a few people here with some of the things you have done. Keep the post coming!!!!
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Unread 06-02-2012, 11:45 AM   #41
Rytari
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been busy with fixing my friends suzuki thingy( purple one), it took little longer than i thought but...


with new cam and things, it seems that over 3500 rpm i have some issue in fuel delivery or amount, dont know sure yet, must see how the afr:s go so thinking to buy new wideband gauge, some good one, lc-1 maybe.

[IMG]http://forums.offipalsta.com/picture.php?
albumid=2481&pictureid=106660[/IMG]
raining couple days now, i got time to do something, first i went to local electric parts supplier and got these.

I read dinos and gojeeps articles about map voltake adjuster and made my own, parts are little different, "cheaper" but does the job...


After installing those electric fans i been having trouble getting that hot air out of the engine bay, real problem comes when running in deep snow or mud that restricts air going out from under the car, easy to notice when shoes are melting to firewall and hood cannot be touched by hand without burning fingers...


..so i made couple "cowl scoops", not any beauty contest winners, but works.. maybe little too high compared to size but enough opening, i hope.


and inside some "grill" to prevent rats, cats and bears or any larger from falling on to the engine.
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Unread 06-02-2012, 02:31 PM   #42
cactus_jack
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ah man, i love me some metal fab (old navy nuclear welder ) looking awesome keep it up!
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Unread 06-03-2012, 04:01 AM   #43
Rytari
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last time when i went to wheeling i got little damage to front diff, nothing bad but arb:s seal housing where copper pipe attach is damaged and one of the side bearing caps is broken, does anybody remember the size and lenght of those bolts in it.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 01:49 PM   #44
Rytari
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exhaust update 1.03 or something


its been so damn loud, and old exhaust also so beaten that its time to change new one, i took out old, some small dents visible on muffler, if you cant find i can point to it...

new on comes 2 1/4" from the header to muffler, and from there.. dont know yet, i bought new front part but it didnt fit, one of the bends turn wrong direction, but i did some cutting and paste so now it sits... only have to drill lambda hole.. times 2, i have new AEM wideband gauge waiting, nice to have something to stare at when everything else looks good and steady...
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Unread 07-07-2012, 02:50 AM   #45
Rytari
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so much to do, so little time... dont have all the time in the world now, busy at work, long days, also weekends. i should be at holiday now but it takes 2 weeks before i can even think about it... and all the time when not at work, been repairing my friends 68 vette, new steering, hydroboost brakes, all suspension bushings, painting under the hood and all suspension parts, and biggest of all, new heart to it... rebuild 383 stroker (4 bolt main, edel heads+intake, scat crank, comp xe268 cam, 10.3:1, long headers, 770 holley and new tci 2500stall tq) so i dont have so much to spend on my own hobbies.


but something must be done to keep wheels running.


cowl intake, almost ready, just have to add short pipe for valve cover breathing to it, works nice, got little more power when hot but maaaaaan its loud... and from 2k rpm / up it whistles like a some damn turbocharger... get use to it... i hope.

also there can be seen my map voltage adjuster now, i installed wideband afr gauge and made several wot acceleration, then changed map voltage and continued beating it until i got to the result that now im having with 5.2v map voltage and 12.3-12.6 afr when WOT

still i have bogging, power loss and so on over 4000 rpm. and thinking must be some valve floating issue or something...

i would like to know what valve spring would bee best for that cam, many peoples say that those spring loads that comp says are too much in 4.0 and orginal ones are too weak... the ones i have can be considered same as oe ones..




last time i went wheeling my steering box started to leak.. badly, first i thought its some seal but looking more closely i noticed that return hose from gear to pump was blown two pieces.

so i replace both hoses, installed in-line filter and my old trans cooler between return line and made some bracket to hold that cooler... ... "just temporary" and i will modify it if cooler is not working effiency enough in that position, allready i think its too high, just little lower that pumps oil tank fill cap.
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