Looks good, but copper brake lines scare me. Steel or stainless steel is all I would use.
scares you maybe but that is mostly only choice part shops sell here that is allowed to use for brake lines in europe, stainless maybe would be good (except galvanic corrosion) but steel not, dont want to make new ones every second year cause old ones are rusted away like steel ones always tend to do.
still i need more info about head milling, today i lapped valves and did some port grinding.
For exhaust i lowered short side radius, not much, and opened throat behind the valve, there was some differences on casting in every port, now all are approx pound ans same sized. And intake, there i only matched port entry to my gasket holes and last grind all port walls casting little smoother.
Earlier up there is picture of driver side motor mount on its place, this is the better one from pass. side.
I had couple of spare control arm bushings that i kept just for this mod, i took some 5x50mm steel bar, drill one 12mm hole and one M10 threaded hole to it fit M10 bolt to threaded hole, secured it from behind by weld, cut some more steel and result seen here...
I made new ones 10mm higher than old ones so ill be able to pull cam out without lifting engine.
control arm bushing is little narrower than original one so i cut couple washers from the old so it wont bend engine side bracket when tightening the bolt that goes to it.
Yesterday i assembled valves and springs to head, fitted it in place and torqued to specs, some of seals for the timing cover still missing so i just install those "in and out breathing tubes" on side of it.
For the lifter preload issue... I made 12 washers, .022 thick and will be fitting those under the rocker bridges, hope that works well.
After some delay i finally manage to do something this week... one day i took oil filter adapter, cleaned and painted it and change all 3 o-rings, found those from local shop that sells bearings, agricultural parts, tools etc. stuff, cost about $5.
today i assembled all remaining parts, filled oil and coolant.
rotated oil pressure in the engine and started it... it took some time before it even try to run but i made few 5 second starts and it woke up.
I raised rpm over 2000 and kept it around 2000-2500 for some 20 minutes for the cams break in. there was some smoke coming out
(header wrap) like from the magicians tent but after first 10 minutes it stopped. after heat up temp remain nicely at 190f.
After break in i changed oil + filter and went to test drive.
its different. so much different, wery strong low torque, and pulling hard from 2k up to 4500rpm. after that seem some lack of power...or should i say lack of juice and it looses some power from top end.
trans is little annoying, nothing much i can live with it.
on low speed it upshifts every 10 feet when driving like normal peoples tend to drive and 4th seems too big for 25mph... i use 3rd instead of Drive like i been doing before.
but when i floor it, engine goes to rev limiter in 1st, sometimes also 2nd before trans manages to upshift, sound like some teen bmw mall racer (and looses some precious time during acceleration, so can loose in trafficlight race to one )
manually shifting from my "tiptronic" it goes better.
Some wheeling on weekend, broke side mirror, cut my winch rope and so on...
My rear locker, powertrax no-slip also quit working, sometimes it pulls one wheel, rarely both but occasionally not pullin at all... like advertisements says, its quiet... not any sound coming from rear
even when my rear locker is not working i still took out front hubs etc.
i got this new axle shaft so i change it...
...and fitted new u-joint to both sides, alloy usa joints, dont know if any better or what compared to 760x that i got previously but atleast those are greasable.