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Old 07-28-2008, 04:28 PM   #1
JeffW
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D30 Build up

I'm getting ready to dump some money into a D30 HP housing and I keep wondering if im doing the right thing or if I should switch to another housing. I want to add alloy axles, ARB, and 4.56 gears to it.

Is there a build up somewhere where they upgrade everything in the housing? I want to run 35's in the end.

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Old 07-28-2008, 06:12 PM   #2
durango-bob
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I run 36" Irok's on my LP30 in my TJ with an ARB locker and 4:56 gears. I carry spare shafts, but havn't needed them in the 4 years that I've run this set-up.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:56 PM   #3
Arcticcat843
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Im in the process of building a D44 front for my jeep. If i had todo it again i would have built the 30 up instead. Sure the 44 with be ALOT stronger in the end but it costs so much money to build a axle.
throw a truss on it, alloy shafts, your gears and lockers, so GOOD u joints and run it. If it breaks fix it or just get another one. you will still end up saving money over building a 44.
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:12 PM   #4
mecompco
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I did exactly what you are describing. 27 spline Superior Chromemoloy shafts, Dana/Spicer 4.56 R&P, ARB, Superior aluminum outter seals, Ruff Stuff cover, LubeAlloy gasket and Mobil1 synth (after 500 mile breakin). Has worked great so far. I suppose it should be trussed to guard against tube flex, and I probably will some day.
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Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops.
Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch.
Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:28 PM   #5
McWood
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Alot of people will tell you that if your gonna build up an axle to either build the D30 or step up and build a D60. Mostly their reasoning is that the D44 uses the same joints as a later model D30 and therefore cannot be all that much stronger. while there reasoning is narrow minded and easily poked full of holes their idea isn't half bad. A built D30 can take some pretty good abuse and unless you've had that new experimental surgery where they remove the "must have bigger tires" gland you'll outgrow that D44 (D30 can take 35's pretty well and a D44 an do 37s comparably, generally speaking of course). build what ya got (hey its all ready set up to mount under you XJ right?) and save you pennies untill you need one tons.
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:16 PM   #6
JeffW
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I see a lot of guys really beating these things up so I'm not too worried about it but I didn't want to feel like i need to upgrade and have a lot of expensive parts that I would have to sell off for penny's.

I'll roll the D30 then.

Now what about the 8.25? I heard at one time 4.88 were being made but haven't seen anything about them.
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:44 PM   #7
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HP30, 30 spline alloys, full case locker, BEEFY truss, thick iron diff guard, cut off the old CA mounts, weld on new beefy ones, throw krawler joints in the UCA mounts, gusset the knuckles.
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:03 PM   #8
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HP30, 30 spline alloys, full case locker, BEEFY truss, thick iron diff guard, cut off the old CA mounts, weld on new beefy ones, throw krawler joints in the UCA mounts, gusset the knuckles.
Personally I'm not a huge fan of the 30-spline upgrade. While I've seen folks online that have broken a shaft and not the ears/yokes, breaking the ears and/or u-joint is far more common, and the 30-spline shafts aren't any stronger there than regular 27-spline alloys (and yes, this is why I don't think regular D44s are "all that"). Plus, if/when you do frag the yokes (especially if you neglected to run nuke-proof u-joints like CTMs or OX), what do you do for trail spares? At least with 27-spline alloys, you can keep your stock shafts as spares. Plus, while it might be more expensive parts-wise, I'd rather frag an axle shaft and u-joint than grenade my ring and pinion (which is a MUCH harder trail fix).

But the #1 trick beefing up a D30... don't drive with a heavy right foot.

Jeff, it sounds like you're on the right track with your D30 build. I'd also suggest you invest in a heavy-duty cover like XJLI mentioned. Personally I like the smooth design of the Riddler covers (vs the gusseted style of SOLID, etc). I'd also highly recommend the weld-on JKS mini-skids for the LCA mounts.
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:11 PM   #9
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Personally I'm not a huge fan of the 30-spline upgrade. While I've seen folks online that have broken a shaft and not the ears/yokes, breaking the ears and/or u-joint is far more common, and the 30-spline shafts aren't any stronger there than regular 27-spline alloys (and yes, this is why I don't think regular D44s are "all that"). Plus, if/when you do frag the yokes (especially if you neglected to run nuke-proof u-joints like CTMs or OX), what do you do for trail spares? At least with 27-spline alloys, you can keep your stock shafts as spares. Plus, while it might be more expensive parts-wise, I'd rather frag an axle shaft and u-joint than grenade my ring and pinion (which is a MUCH harder trail fix).

Its an endless debate really. The guy who does my gear installs and custom stuff for jeeps and other trucks swears by the 30 spline upgrade (hes on 36s now though, with a D60, twin stick, and 14FF; so he didnt run 30/44 for long lol), while others I know say its a time bomb for your ring gear.

But yea, I cant argue with the repair part.
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:35 PM   #10
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I only know one guy personally, and by "personally" I mean in real life I know the guy not just a screen name I talk to on a forum, who has run the 30-spline upgrade kit in his HP D30. He now runs a HP D44 (export XJ housing from Currie) because he blew his ring and pinion too many times after going to the 30-spline kit. He upgraded to the 30-spline kit because he was breaking shafts... I've never seen anyone in person break a D30 shaft (Hinkley obviously did though as that was why he went to the 30-spline shafts), but I've seen a lot of broken u-joints and ears/yokes, something the 30-spline shafts can't help with.

I prefer to keep my weak links easily fixable. (which is part of why I run the Warn small hub kit, haha).

edit: but yeah, endless debate really. If I was doing it over, starting from scratch, and wasn't building 2 rigs at the same time (ie: keeping part interchangeability btwn 2 vehicles maximized), I'd run a set of Mopar JK Rubicon axles, but that's another thread.
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Old 07-29-2008, 01:32 PM   #11
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I probably would have done with the Super 30 spline shafts, but I had already acquired the 27 spline ARB. In retrospect, being able to find spares anywhere is nice--does it offset the less-likelyhood of breakage? Who knows.
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Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler.
Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops.
Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch.
Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:31 AM   #12
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I'm not a big fan of the 30-spline upgrade either for the reasons posted above. I think if you are going to spend that much money, it would be better spent towards a hub kit instead.

And in regards to the 4.88 for the 8.25... Superior was going to make them but what I think happened is because they were planning this about the same time the JK came out, they scrapped all projects to focus on getting products for the JK. So I think its safe to say they won't be making them which is unfortunate.
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Old 08-06-2008, 05:09 PM   #13
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I hope I got the right axle. It looks right. Came out of a 99 XJ. Too bad its 3.55 gears.

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Old 08-06-2008, 05:18 PM   #14
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im running a completly stock HP30 from my old 96 with 35's, havent had any issues yet.
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:28 PM   #15
JeffW
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More help Please...

I looked at the prices of alloy shafts and about fell over. I'm going to replace the U-joints I have from the 99. I'm guessing these are the bigger u-joints? Also I read something about the hubs from the 99 being different than the ones on my 2001. I needed to move the brakes over. Will I have to change the hubs between the 2 axles? I was planning on reusing my brakes.

Thanks
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