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Unread 11-10-2006, 04:49 PM   #1
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Rebuilding a CV Driveshaft: Day 1

Let me clarify: This is a front double cardan driveshaft out of a 90-94 XJ. I got it from the junkyard, because I am using it for the rear, once I lift it, in conjunction with PORC's SYE. The joints were worn very bad, so I decided I'd rebuild the thing.


1. As with any other project around involving your car, don't forget to wear your safety glasses! (you can also see the fruits of the first ten days of "No-Shave November")



2. The tools I used:
1: U-Joints (3) to fit the application [Autozone people know nothing, go to NAPA]
2: Needle nose pliers to remove snap-rings
3: Flathead Screwdriver to wedge, pry, etc
4: Rubber Mallet to hammer old u-joints out
5: 13mm socket to hammer old u-joints out [use a cheap one, because there is a chance it will get mushroomed]
6: (not shown) PB Blaster, and lots of it, for snap rings, u-joints, clearing grease




3. List of driveshaft components:
(Rear)
1. Driveshaft
(Front - L to R)
2. Center ball
3. Center ball bearing spring
4. Center u-joint yoke
5. Double-cardan joint






4. Remove snap rings from the u-joints
I just took some PB Blaster, blasted the areas where the snap-rings were, then easily clamped the rings with needle-nose pliers, and pulled the rings out. I did all of them at the same time.


5. . Pound the u-joints out of their place
I did this by placing the driveshaft over the edge of our concrete walkway



I placed a 13mm socket over the top u-joint cap. Then, using liberal force, took the mallet to it, and eventually got the opposite cap to pop out. Once this side was out, I could then remove the top cap, and pull the joint out.



When doing the double cardan joint, be sure to remove the joint's (the four-holed piece) caps first, because that side needs the rigidity of the yoke to be able to pop the caps out. (I learned this the hard way, and eventually returned the yoke's caps to remove the cardan joint's caps )

Once all of these were done, I removed the center yoke and the center ball mechanism. You will need to remove these, because most likely the center ball's bearings are shot, and will need a rebuild kit (found at NAPA or other autoparts stores).



Once all of the u-joints were pounded out, I washed the entire thing, scrubbing off oil, grease, grime, and dirt, and prepared for the rebuild.


6. Paint the driveshaft
This step is optional; I mean, no one's going to see it. I did it, though, because I live in Northern California, a place that sees 17-24 inches a year in rain, so I am concerned of rust over time. I used Rustoleum flat spray enamel, nothing fancy, to paint the entire driveshaft black. I stuck old u-joint caps in the holes, so the new u-joints won't have a tough time getting in there.




Conclusions to Day 1:
The uninstall of components is much harder than the reinstall, they say. Hopefully that's true. With rainclouds looming, I decided to pack it up and start again tomorrow. My local NAPA Auto Parts is ordering my center ball rebuild kit to be here tomorrow morning, and I am letting paint dry on the shaft. Should be a fun day tomorrow/Sunday. Stay tuned for the completion of the rebuild sometime in the next two days











p.s. Eric/Balloo, if you want to tech FAQ this, that'd be cool ;-)

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Last edited by sharpie; 11-10-2006 at 10:19 PM..
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Unread 11-10-2006, 08:12 PM   #2
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¿no gusto me tech article?
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Unread 11-10-2006, 08:19 PM   #3
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Why? I'd change the joints if they were worn, but otherwise I'd leave the thing alone...
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Unread 11-10-2006, 08:41 PM   #4
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Good article, but you painted the zerk fitting on the driveshaft... not good!
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Unread 11-10-2006, 08:56 PM   #5
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Unread 11-10-2006, 08:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachinXJ
Good article, but you painted the zerk fitting on the driveshaft... not good!
..naah.. I did the exact same thing on all of my ball joint zerk fittings on my front axle when I painted it - no problems, grease guns have supprisingly much power



Good write- up, have to bookmark this in case I need to do this
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Unread 11-10-2006, 09:18 PM   #7
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I replaced the joints because the thing came from a junkyard; it had terrible joints and worn out center ball bearings.
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Unread 11-10-2006, 10:40 PM   #8
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I'll link it! The front DS I have looks/feels tight, but maybe I'll rebuild mine for kicks!
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Unread 11-10-2006, 10:55 PM   #9
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Great writeup and pics, thanks for taking the time. Looking forward to day 2.
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Unread 11-12-2006, 12:25 AM   #10
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how much for the parts??
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Unread 11-29-2006, 09:33 PM   #11
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CV Driveshaft Rebuild Part Deux

Okay, time for the reassembly. If you remember my old post, I took the entire driveshaft apart.

I bought some u-joints at Auto Zone....sucked. They didn't give me the right thing. So I went off to NAPA Auto (where I should have gone to begin with), and got two of the right joints (I pick up the third tomorrow, it was in the warehouse). So I decided I picked up a new center ball and yoke assembly, because my old ball bearing was shot, and in the process of pounding a new one into the old yoke, it cracked. Total cost of the build will be at the end.

I started with the fixed yoke. I opened up a u-joint package, and took off the caps. I slathered the bearings inside the caps with black poly-grease. Make sure you get the u-joints with the grease zerk, you will need to put more grease in, most likely.



I slid the joint into where it should be, and put the caps on the outside of the holes. They go in a bit, but don't slide all the way through, you'll need to press them in. I started with the C-clamp method that the guy at NAPA told me about.



Soon, this didn't seem to go anywhere, so I went with the tried and true old-sparkplug-socket-rubber-mallet method. To minimize the risk of trauma to the caps, go to the opposite cap every two hits or so. Also, don't swing with all your might, they go in with less force than that.



This worked perfectly, and soon it was on to putting the lock rings in. Just put the ring in on one side, and then take a pair of needle-nose to squeeze the ring, then use a screwdriver, or your finger, to push the higher side down.



I prepared the CV joint u-joint the same way. then, I slipped the unit into its place.



Using the same method, and after some back and forth to get the caps to line up (there is a groove in the holes where the lock ring has to sit), I got the lock rings in, the same way as before.



After that was done, I put the center ball and yoke assembly on. The little spring goes into the tube at the end of the driveshaft, as can be seen in the left side of this picture.


Once the spring was in, I greased up the center ball liberally (which came assembled in package), and put it over the spring and tube. It should go on easily. This is where I ended today, as I am picking up the next u-joint tomorrow. I'll leave you with these pictures:






And now, what you've been waiting for:

Spicer 53005542 CV Driveshaft....................$40.00 at junkyard
Spicer 211355x Center Yoke Assembly.........$68.99 at NAPA Auto Parts
Spicer 5-153x U-Joints..................................$41.99 for 3 at NAPA Auto Parts
Poly-Grease from Auto Zone.........................$4.59
PORC SYE PN# PORC52231..........................$179.99 shipped to my door
Total Cost.............................................. ....$335.56


There you have it, folks. An easy way under $500 to do your SYE, do it heavy duty, and do it right. Hope this helps someone!
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| DOORLESS IN A 97+ | D44 SWAP | REBUILDING A CV DRIVESHAFT | HOME-BREWED CENTER CONSOLE
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Unread 11-30-2006, 12:01 AM   #12
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balloo, can this one get linked in the FAQ as well?
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Unread 11-30-2006, 12:28 AM   #13
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Merged the two threads into one for easier acessability.
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Unread 11-30-2006, 05:49 AM   #14
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nice writeup

btw, you and your av look too much alike
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Unread 11-30-2006, 01:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FitchVA
nice writeup

btw, you and your av look too much alike

don't hate me because I'm beautiful
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| DOORLESS IN A 97+ | D44 SWAP | REBUILDING A CV DRIVESHAFT | HOME-BREWED CENTER CONSOLE
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