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Unread 07-13-2011, 12:13 AM   #61
justanotherjpr
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Looks good. How big is the gap between the inner frame and the uca mount? If you can stand 1/8", i would slip some 1/8 flat stock between the link mount and the frame. Weld the flat stock to the frame and the link mount to the flat stock. Seems that it would spread the load out better.

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Unread 07-13-2011, 04:20 PM   #62
2doorxj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justanotherjpr View Post
Looks good. How big is the gap between the inner frame and the uca mount? If you can stand 1/8", i would slip some 1/8 flat stock between the link mount and the frame. Weld the flat stock to the frame and the link mount to the flat stock. Seems that it would spread the load out better.
The gap is very slim, it looks bigger than it is in the pictures, but i like that idea.
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Unread 07-16-2011, 01:46 AM   #63
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Got the stiffeners completely welded in, the only thing is im concerned about small gaps between the stiffeners and the frame rail, could i seal the thing up with some seam sealer? You guys think it would hold up and stop water from getting between the frame and stiffener?

I mocked up my control arms:



Steering and trackbar mocked up:



Set my caster at 6 degrees when the coil buckets are at 0, completely burned in the control/coil bracketry and the upper control arm link tower. Painted it, rustoleum brush on, semi flat




My DOM is here, so i have basically everything i need to finish the jeep, oh yeah, i also need som etype of flex joint at the axle, poly joints will NOT work, because the coil brackets are mounted wider than my control arm brackets, so rather than cutting the coil brackets back off, and playing with those until the point directly at the brackets on the frame, ill just order some type of flex joint, whether it be a heim, currie johnny joint, or a ballistic joint. Besides im sure a smidgeon of misalignment wont do much.

Im leaning towards ballistic joints because i could trade my poly bushings in and get those? Anyone out there ever used ballistic joints? Id rather stay away from a heim at both ends.
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Unread 07-16-2011, 02:20 AM   #64
Timo_90xj
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Nice work!

I've been wondering about the same thing with frame stiffeners on how to fill the gaps and prevent water from going between the uniframe rails and stiffeners. Living in an area where salt is used pretty extensively during winter, it would rot the stock uniframe pretty damn quickly.

edit: As you wrote, it probably is a good idea to weld the upper mount to the inside of the frame rail. Those link mounts take a beating, so any extra support is a goood idea IMO.
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Unread 07-16-2011, 10:59 AM   #65
Brookhart63
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This is looking great! Any particular reason your sticking to leaf springs and drum brakes in the rear?
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Unread 07-16-2011, 11:41 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by Brookhart63 View Post
This is looking great! Any particular reason your sticking to leaf springs and drum brakes in the rear?
$$$$

haha, a rear 4 link is not cheap/easy to do, i figure im getting some good practice with the 3 link, and down the road ill do a 4 link rear.

As far as drums in the rear, those will be changed to discs, but right now im just worried about getting this thing on the road.

Thanks guys!
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Unread 07-16-2011, 12:34 PM   #67
SFRautomotive
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nice work.

im liking this build
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Unread 07-16-2011, 06:33 PM   #68
86cherokeek20
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whats the price on ur three link as in the brackets coil buckets joints and DOM tube plannin on doin this on mine as well as 4 link in the rear
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Unread 07-21-2011, 12:44 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by 2doorxj View Post
I drilled two 7/8s hole on both side of the frame where the old crossmember stud/nut used to go. That was NOT fun, i broke one of my expensive step drill bits, and a couple other drill bits. I was using my dads super heavy duty milwaukee drill, that damn thing almost broke both my wrists multiple times.
SAME HERE. I had to drill 2 giant holes for my RC Long Arms...whatta *****. I was drilling with my dads milwaukee (how ironic) and mym friend even had a grip on it too and I thought for sure I broke my wrist when it grabbed. Ya live and learn I guess lol

Looks awesome man, what welder are you using?
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Unread 07-21-2011, 12:54 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by TYphoonXJ View Post
SAME HERE. I had to drill 2 giant holes for my RC Long Arms...whatta *****. I was drilling with my dads milwaukee (how ironic) and mym friend even had a grip on it too and I thought for sure I broke my wrist when it grabbed. Ya live and learn I guess lol

Looks awesome man, what welder are you using?
Thanks! And yea, those drills have some SERIOUS torque.

The welder is a 220v 155a Marquette with 75/25 gas.

My dad got the welder out of the body shop at his job, they gave it to him for free
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Unread 07-21-2011, 06:00 PM   #71
3vze28
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lets see some more progress pics bud.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 08:38 PM   #72
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Okay, but for some reason, i forgot about this thread.

I finished building all of the control arms, and the axle is bolted into the jeep. Of course i have no pics, nor will i until saturday.



Now, heres the things i want/need to get done:

Axle side panhard mount (still trying to think of a way to make one)

I want to drill two holes on the frame, by the upper link mount, run the two bolts through the frame, just for some more support for the mount.

Swaybar mounts

Im going to ditch the ballistic way of mounting the coils, i want to make my own bumpstop tube, that welds to the coil baseplate that will also hold the coils in place, and then hold the coils down with a stock style coil retainers. I know that the interior diameter of an XJ coil is 4 inches, so id like to go down to home depot and see if they have any plumbing pipe with an OD 4 inches. If you dont understand what im saying, you soon will, once i get back from vacation, and i can get back to work.

I also need to do my rear brakes and brake lines.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:30 PM   #73
foggybottombob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2doorxj View Post
Im going to ditch the ballistic way of mounting the coils, i want to make my own bumpstop tube, that welds to the coil baseplate that will also hold the coils in place, and then hold the coils down with a stock style coil retainers. I know that the interior diameter of an XJ coil is 4 inches, so id like to go down to home depot and see if they have any plumbing pipe with an OD 4 inches. If you dont understand what im saying, you soon will, once i get back from vacation, and i can get back to work.
I know you mean you want a way to hold the spring in place on the buckets. I used Ballistic Fab's parts and the spring hold down plate was just too flimsy. I think it was 1/4" steel. Mine bent and I bought some 3/8" steel and made substitutes which are still working.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 10:40 PM   #74
2doorxj
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Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
I know you mean you want a way to hold the spring in place on the buckets. I used Ballistic Fab's parts and the spring hold down plate was just too flimsy. I think it was 1/4" steel. Mine bent and I bought some 3/8" steel and made substitutes which are still working.
Have any pics?

Thanks fbb
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Unread 07-27-2011, 07:09 PM   #75
1 ton yj
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Any reason you put the upper on the long tube side, instead of over the pumpkin?

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Originally Posted by 2doorxj View Post

Now, heres the things i want/need to get done:

Axle side panhard mount (still trying to think of a way to make one)
We put the same axle in my friend's YJ last fall with a 3 link/panhard. You can kinda see the bracket in this picture (ignore the hi lift handle tie rod).


The offset bracket came from one of my friends who owns a shop in Palisades Park. If you want one I can put you in touch with him.
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