Crankshaft Position Sensor Test - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-04-2004, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
jondeaux
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Crankshaft Position Sensor Test

Hello,

I appologize in advance, I have been hunting for the testing procedures for the CPS. I cannot find the test procedures but there is a lot of discussion of this infernal beast.

Can someone post this or provide a link, I have an 89 Cherokee, 4.5 RE lift, 4.0L, it started fine yesterday, now it won't. Cranks fine. It did this a few months ago and I had the CPS replaced cost 140.00 bucks. I figured if it was the same I would save 100.00 and replace myself.

I have it pulled and need to test.

Thanks,

jon

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post #2 of 6 Old 04-04-2004, 01:17 PM
Blue XJ
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Should only be $35 - $30 to replace it, I think I paid $37 for mine at the dealer for my 90.

Maybe someone with a manual for that year will chime in and help ya out.
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-04-2004, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
jondeaux
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yeah,

$43 bucks, thats not so much the problem. I hate to replace a good part. It seems that a coil can cause the same effect, no spark to the plugs.

I have read in the threads that there is a way to test the CPS, if it is in fact bad. I just cannot locate it in a search through this or the 4x4 forum.

Anyway, thanks for the reply.

keep the rubber down & shiny side up.

later,

jon
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-04-2004, 04:54 PM
mikebrodt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jondeaux
yeah,

$43 bucks, thats not so much the problem. I hate to replace a good part. It seems that a coil can cause the same effect, no spark to the plugs.

I have read in the threads that there is a way to test the CPS, if it is in fact bad. I just cannot locate it in a search through this or the 4x4 forum.

Anyway, thanks for the reply.

keep the rubber down & shiny side up.

later,

jon
The haynes manual says " connect and ohmmeter across terminals A and B (marked on the connector). The meter should read no continuity (open). If the reading are not to specification, replace the CPS."

Hope that helps.
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-04-2004, 05:08 PM
shylow
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If you search using "ohms" you'll find some info. I think it should be 200 +or- 75 ohms.

89 4.0l, 124,000 miles.
30 X 9.5 BFG AT/KO
Blazer S-10 leafs (3in) and 2in spacers. The rear was about 1" neg. Its level now.
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-05-2004, 01:24 AM
1337j33px0r
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on an 89, you should read approx 200 ohms across the terminals.

open and dead short both indicate problems!

I'm guessing, that you'll see a dead short, and that the place that replaced it didn't tie the wire out of the way and it burned off on the exhaust manifold. (the insulation around it can last a few months before it burns through enough to cause problems)

pull the wire up from the connector a little and inspect for signs of heat damage. I have seen this WAY too often.

if the intake manifold heat shield is gone, that doesn't help either (grab one from a junkyard and put it on)
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