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Crank Position Sensor Write Up
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#31 | |
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Registered User
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I changed my CPS last weekend. Wasn't bad at all. 96 Cherokee. 7/16's sockets. I used 3 extensions for a total of about 18" of reach with one u-joint like connector. For the lower bolt I put the u-joint in the middle of the extensions and for the upper I put it close to the socket. One thing that helped a lot was that I found I could reach around the front of the transmission and get my right hand on the bolt/socket to hold it on while I turned the socket wrench with my left hand. I gave the bolts a shot of PB Blaster a day or two before I removed them. Also, since I could reach the bolts by coming round the front I also tighted the top one with an offset box wrench which worked out a bit easier than the socket.
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#32 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the photos of CPS. However has anyone got photos of the underside of a Grand Cherokee and where the Crankshaft Position Sensor is on those? Any advice and photos would be a huge help. Thanks again.
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#33 |
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Registered User
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I just remembered. My Grand Cherokee Ltd 4ltr 6cylinder is a August 1999. I need photos of the understand of my Jeep showing where to find the Crankshaft Position Sensor.. Thank again. Any help with be much appreciated.
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#34 |
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Member
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I hope this gets moved/added to the how-to....
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Check out my cardomain site: Cher"red"Kee @ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/280798 Street Jeep tip #1: The more inspiring your ride the more you'll get hated on by simpletons. Haters only link: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/280000-280999/280798_76_full.jpg |
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#35 |
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Registered User
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My '01 just died (crank but no start) and I took a stab that it was the CPS. Took me longer to find the damn thing that it did to replace it. Seriously the install was cake, after I located it, only took like 10 minutes in the parking lot. First crank after installing she started right up. Reading through this writeup definitely helped, thanks!
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2001 XJ Sport 4.0L 4x4 @ CarDomain -Rusty's 2" BB -Durango4x4 bumpers -Stealth "cubbyhole" subwoofer |
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#36 |
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Registered User
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Very good write-up. I plan to replace my CPS before this winter. Are the slow starts the main indicator it is on it's way out? My XJ currently takes about 3-4 cranks to start (1 key turn, holding for 2-3 seconds).
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1994 XJ Sport 4" ProComp Lift with full leafs Rock Krawler Wheels/X-treme Mud Terrain 31x10.50 Banks Torque Tube w/Dynomax Super Turbo Cat-Back K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit |
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#37 |
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Registered User
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I just replaced my CPS. The reason was no spark and no fuel. The part was sourced from the dealer $95. (Probably overpaid but this is type of thing I usually want OEM.) The removal and replacement on '97 Cherokee sport was a PITA but do-able. The most useful tool for me was a "wobbler" fitting on my 1/4" extension. This allows the socket (7/16" or 11mm) to wobble 20 degrees or so which was just enough to make a full fit on the CPS bolts. The suggestion of PB Blaster (WD, Wurth) a day before is VERY sound. I think maybe each day for a few days is even better. Anyway, I was able to remove both bolts with a combined 30" of extensions which allowed the rachet to be located behind the front drive shaft and under the mid transfer case. Once removed, I needed to get my oversized forearms (blame my genetics) into place to both position the new CPS and start both bolts. First, I put the auto transmission into Low (this moves the linkage out of the way for my left arm). Second, I positioned myself directly under the bell housing (car is on stands) where I can thread my right arm up to the engine side of the bell housing, and my left arm up past the drive shaft to the tranny side of the bell housing. Granted, this is one miserable tight fit but I have the part in my left hand and bolt w/ lock washer in my right. Close your eyes (keeps s**t out and they're useless at this point anyway) and place the sensor and install the bolts. Get out of there and do the reverse of the loosening process with the mega extension.
Anyway, that's what I did. The Jeep started with the first crank.
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Chris '97 Jeep Cherokee 4WD, 4.0L, Auto 122k miles |
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#38 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
It seems like with this part it's only a matter of time, because they will fail eventually due to crappy design. So you might as well change it out every 5 years/75k miles or so and save yourself the hastle of being stranded.
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2001 XJ Sport 4.0L 4x4 @ CarDomain -Rusty's 2" BB -Durango4x4 bumpers -Stealth "cubbyhole" subwoofer |
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#39 |
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Registered User
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I've had to take the CPS off twice and managed to damage or destroy it both times. Perhaps I am just a clutz, but a mechanic a tranny specialty shop in town told me he finds it mandatory to break them in order to remove most of them. Nice write up, though. It helps having lots of lift.
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SOLD: 1997 Jeep Cherokee Country w/ 4.0L HO, AW4, D44, D30 w/ Aussie locker, Edge Trail Jammer System, 4.5" Rough Country lift, Zacatal Roof Rack, T&T front bumper, On board CO2 (20lbs), All lower body/bumpers/trim are Herculined, JKS Disco's, 31x10.5 MT Baja Claws, Warn 9.5ti, Front Rubi 44 in-progress, T&T Customs lift coming soon... Ephesians 6:10-17. |
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#40 |
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Registered User
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rickyn29, nice picture. Just make sure you're not over compensating or something. That sensor is a pain to change on automatic 94 cherokee, but wasn't that bad on a 97 wrangler.
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#41 |
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Registered User
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I wish i had this write up like 6 months ago when i was fixing mine, i could not get my big freakin hands up in there, and had to call my little mechanic buddy(the guys like 6 foot and weighs like 130 pounds) and he managed to get it on, and i got mine for like 50-60 at autozone, dunno why the price difference is so big there :|
oh and has anyone thought of using one of them bendy things on the drill with a ratchet adapter on it for this? it occurred to me after it was on.
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Black 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0, 4WD, NP231. 31 inch Yokohama Geolanders. 3" Rough Country AAL Kit. ZJ tierod. C4x4 Front tow hooks. Nates 4x4 rear bumper w/receiver and shackles Iron rock offroad double shear adj trackbar |
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#42 |
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Registered User
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I was driving my jeep today and it just cut off. The transmission has been doing a couple weird shifts lately going up hills. It wouldn't crank back up for about 30 min or so sitting on the side of the highway. Could this be the Crank shafts position sensor?
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94 - XJ, 4.5", 33's with a few odds and ends attached |
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#43 |
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Registered User
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Any of you guys experience this problem only when your jeep is cold? Once the XJ is warm it starts right up!! Some of you guys mention the engine goes dead while driving. This is not the case for me. When the vehicle is cold (sat over night) I crank it for 20-30 seconds and it won't start. I replaced the TPS (twice) as I have been getting codes for that. checked the voltage at the TPS and it is within spec. The head tech at the jeep dealer recommended changing the wiring harness to the TPS. He said even though voltage appears to be correct sometimes the harness still might be causing the problem. So should I replace the TPS wiring harness first or replace the CPS first? Also.. fuel rail has plenty of fuel in it although did not do a fuel pressure test yet. Let me know what you think.
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]2004 Jeep Rubicon- Where the 'easy way out' is never the logical choice. (SOLD) 2000 Jeep Cherokee (P.O.S) 2002 BMW M Coupe[/COLOR][/FONT] |
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#44 |
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Registered User
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broke off CPS
Newbie here... I was trying to replace my CPS today on a 99 grand cherokee and the sensor broke off in the bellhousing leaving half of it stuck there. Any advice as to how to get it out?
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#45 |
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Registered User
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You broke it off in the bellhousing??? Your going to have to drop the transmission if you can't get to it from where it is sitting right now....
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94 - XJ, 4.5", 33's with a few odds and ends attached |
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