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Crank Position Sensor, Which One?
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Crank Position Sensor, Which One?
I want to change the Crank Position Sensor on my 1996 Jeep Cherokee Classic. But I am not sure which one to get. When looking for one, Some ads say (with updated OD2 Code Connector) and others say OE replacement.
Is there something I should look for to know which one I have? And is this hard to do myself? Like can I just un-bolt the old one and replace it? Easy as replacing an O2 sensor? Thanks
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#2 |
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Member
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not sure bout the plug thing but yes it is easy to do. i do know that the plugs are different on say your 96 compared to my 99. i just bit the bullet and got mine form the jeep dealership.
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1980 Jeep CJ7 AMC 258, T176, D300, AMC 20 REAR, D30 FRONT 1999 XJ CLASSIC RC 3" front AAL rear |
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#3 |
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It's the crank sensor!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Minnesota, MN
Posts: 6,799
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Get an OEM replacement. Avoid the el-cheapo sensor unless you enjoy doing things twice. SEARCH for information on replacement; there are tons of pages of light reading which will help you through your installation. It's not real hard but is kind of a PITA in my opinion and there are a few tips that you should be aware about ahead of time.
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99 Cherokee, 4.0 AW4, NP242 Past Jeeps: 49 Willys, 81 Scrambler, 88 Comanche Without "data", all you have is an opinion! |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South Bay Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,538
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why change it? better to leave it alone; purchase a spare and wait to install it. some would argue to install it and keep the used one...i argue that if that's done, you:
1) have a new one that when it goes dead you 2) are left with the spare that has umpteen miles on it, meaning: 3) you will go buy a 2nd new one. this is probably one sensor that if you've got 150k on it and it has NOT died, then will probably outlast the jeep. save your $70 for now.
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Newly Painted! Emerald Green '96 XJ 4x4 4.0 HO 5-spd 3" Lift + 31" Tires / D35 TracLok / NP231 Drilled out Stock Airbox / Gauge Cluster Upgrade Magnaflow Muffler / High-flo Cat / MSD Coil |
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#5 |
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It's the crank sensor!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Minnesota, MN
Posts: 6,799
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Changing out a crankshaft position sensor though is a pain IMHO, and is easier accomplished in the garage or driveway than on the side of the road or on the trail.
As they are a relatively common failure on the 4.0 and don't always, but definitely CAN leave you stranded if the sensor fails catastrophically, replacing them before failure is a strategy that many 4.0 owners consider; to each their own on this.
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99 Cherokee, 4.0 AW4, NP242 Past Jeeps: 49 Willys, 81 Scrambler, 88 Comanche Without "data", all you have is an opinion! |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Thanks.
The reason I want to change out the CPS is because it has been suggested before that some of my problems I am expereincing to do with the CPS. I.E. Sometimes the Jeep just dies. Then after cranking several times it will run . Sometimes ruff, other times better than original. I will have to check with the parts store on the recommended replacement since they have an OE replacement version and the OE version with OBD update. Thanks Again |
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#7 | |
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It's the crank sensor!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Minnesota, MN
Posts: 6,799
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Quote:
Very definitely could be the crank sensor and that would be my guess, but the ignition coil can get flaky as well; just keep that in mind. Might be interesting to test both the crank sensor and the coil to see where you are at. It might not be definitive but I've seen where testing can lend a clue. With the crank sensor, you're looking for resistance between 125-275 ohms. If you're out of spec or near out of spec, I'd change it out.
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99 Cherokee, 4.0 AW4, NP242 Past Jeeps: 49 Willys, 81 Scrambler, 88 Comanche Without "data", all you have is an opinion! |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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on the yj forum they were talking about taking out the cps, cleaning it and then putting it back..since something about a dirty sensor can give bad readings
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#9 | |
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It's the crank sensor!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Minnesota, MN
Posts: 6,799
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Quote:
Not impossible that a crank sensor connector could be dirty though. If you want to give it a try, remove the connector for the crank sensor and clean it thoroughly with electrical contact cleaner, a dab of dielectric grease and reconnect. No guarantee but dirty connectors = resistance= which could manifest as an intermittent condition. You should clean the crank sensor connector INSIDE the engine bay as well. It's at the back, near the #6 injector. If you're cleaning connectors, clean em both. I would definitely get a resistance reading on the sensor itself. Takes about 2 minutes. If the sensor is outside of spec, then changing it out would be the best strategy. Here's the way to test the sensor for your 1996; the info I gave you about resistance between 125-275 was incorrect; that's for earlier vintage RENIX XJs. Correct info. below ------------------------------------------------------------------------- CRANKSHAFT SENSOR TESTING PROCEDURE: 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines 1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness. 2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C. The terminals are identified as A-B-C looking into connector from left to right with the “notch” in the middle of the connector on your right. Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-10K scale for this test. 3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if LOW RESISTANCE
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99 Cherokee, 4.0 AW4, NP242 Past Jeeps: 49 Willys, 81 Scrambler, 88 Comanche Without "data", all you have is an opinion! |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the input. Will look on net for the procedure in changing it out.
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