I have an 1989 Comanche with a no-spark condition. The resistance is correct (190 ohms) but I'm not seeing any AC voltage....am I doing this correctly? Should I be measuring across the switch's connector or back at the harness? And it is AC and NOT DC voltage....?
Okay, i dont have the long crack or no crack problem yet, wait i noticed it a couple times a day or two ago. started up a little different out of the ordinary, took longer then it should. But im noticing my jeep hesitates/bucks feels like its about to stall kinda problem or mis fires. But when im crusing at about 40-50 i notice a hesitation and stutter/misfire feeling and notice my alternator gauge is just next to 14 volts. I was under the impression it was bad gas and i still am, but now im worried its something else. I have know check engine light either, i brought it to work and put it on my vdo snap on scanner and it had no codes.
spark plugs were changed 15,000 miles ago with factory rec ngk, fuel filter done at same time. timing chain was just done too.
2004 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE I6
1979 PONTIAC FIREBIRD 6.6
Well I changed out the spark plugs and the plugs smelled foul, like bad gas or something. I figured it was bad gas. So I put champion plugs and it ran like a champ, no more hesitation and I drove like 40 miles so fare so good.
2004 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE I6
1979 PONTIAC FIREBIRD 6.6
Can a faulty CPS cause shifting problems in a 1998 AW4?
I'm pretty sure my CPS is faulty, as I am experiencing the no start after a long drive issue. It fires right up after 10-15 minutes. There is another issue as well, I started having shifting problems (from a stop, no forward movement in "D" position) several months ago. I have to shift manually.
So far, I replaced the TPS, changed the fluid, cleaned the NSS, and the no-shift issue persists. I suspect the CPS because my AT shifts fine when it's stone cold, but after it warms up it will no longer shift on its own. I figured if the CPS is experiencing thermal failure then maybe these problems are related. Am I mistaken?
BTW, I have spent countless hours searching and reading threads, as well as a great deal of time thumbing through the FSM. So please don't tell me to 'search.'
... i cant figure out where the "pigtail harness" is...
The 2000 and 2001 will have the CPS in the same location on the bell housing, but the wire connector may be on the passenger side, near or on top of the Transfer case, not as shown in the diagram. Simply follow the wire from the CPS sensor to the connector.
Total US debt has increased by 70% under Obama, from $10.625 trillion on January 21, 2009 to $18.005 trillion January 1, 2015.
Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ......
Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
same issue with me as well... runs like a champ untill it gets warmed up and then it hesitates and hesitates and then just dies. i was thinking fuel issue but my fuel pump is priming rail with plenty of pressure.. tach and spedo just drops when is stalls. when i try to start it just cranks and cranks and cranks, thinkin it is a fuel issue.... but after waiting about 1 hour or so it starts right up and doesnt have issues. i have a 91 xj with a 4.0 h.o. saturday went out with club trail riding with no issues what so ever. i dont want to replace fuel pump if thats not the problem, and i just dont want to throw parts at it... any help would be terrific
Found the harness, unplugged with the key in "on" position, two gauges kicked on. When its hooked up, nothing. Took it to a friends shop and he got a code reader. He calls and wakes me up and says something like the reader said your ecu is bad and to tow it to the dealer which regrtably did. After re reading tims post about the obd II reader I called him back and that was what he used. Now the jeep is locked in the dealership till tuesday. So first thing tuesday im replacing the sensor myself like I should have done in the first place lol
[CENTER][B][COLOR="Blue"]2001 XJ CHEROKEE[/COLOR] ORO Member 325[/B][/CENTER]
TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines
1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.
I am not too smart with the electrical stuff so if you can help me I would apprecieate it.
this is the tool I have to work with. I placed the red probe on the b terminal and the black probe on the c terminal with the dial at each of the options with the top selector was set to the horse shoe looking thing.
the display stayed at 1 with no change unless I slipped and the probes touched each other. when I put the probes together the display went to 0.
I am presuming that 0 is infinity?
So based on this I am guessing the Crankshaft Position Sensor is bad?
__________________ 1993 Jeep Cherokee
4.0 Auto 4dr 4X4 RED JEEP MEMBER #253
If you touch the probes together you get 0 ohms which is a short. The meter reading seen in your photograph is an open (infinity). The meter in the photo is set on the 2K ohm scale. The horse shoe thing is the ohms symbol. The thing that looks like a one in the photo is an I for infinity.
Yes, the test calls for an open and if you had the probes in the right place and made good contact, it was open. Only little difference is your meter does not have a 1 to 10k scale but your meter should be close enough. The real experts here can say if that would make any difference.
Can I be confident that a reading of around 600 ohms between the "b" and "c" terminals on the CPS sensor cable absolutely indicates a bad CPS? The only reading I should be getting, if I am understanding the prior posts correctly, is "I" for open i.e. infinite resistence?
Just don't want to fix anything that isn't really broken.