converting R12 to 134A - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Cherokee & Comanche Forums > XJ Cherokee Technical Forum > converting R12 to 134A

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineFS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! FS: Wrangler RGB Multicolor Fog Light LEDs: Awesome Effect

Reply
Unread 08-12-2007, 11:53 PM   #1
ar275103
Registered User
1993 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 66
converting R12 to 134A

My A/C has been blowing warm air for awhile now and think it just needs a recharge. I know there are kits to convert an R12 to 134A but has anyone on here done it? How hard of an install was it, how long did it take and what can I expect to spend on this

ar275103 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-13-2007, 01:28 AM   #2
tizzdizz
Registered User
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: campbell, ca
Posts: 1,177
Most shops would probably tell you you can't just recharge AC, if it's blowing warm that means the refrigerant has leaked out somewhere, and a part needs to be replaced, since it's a sealed system and the refrigerant doesn't get used up. It'd suck to have to do it twice, and pay twice for the refrigerant.

At least in CA, it's not legal to buy R12 unless you have a license to work on these systems, and the fittings need to be changed, along with some other pieces, depending on the vehicle. I haven't done this on a Cherokee, but I'm just speaking from my own experience from when I worked at a shop.

When a customer would bring their car in, we would recharge it. If we couldn't find the problem right away (faulty AC compressor, etc). We would also put in some leak dye, and send the customers on their way, telling them to keep an eye on it and bring it back when it started to get warm again, knowing that we first needed to find the leak/malfunction before fixing the problem. Then, when they came back, we'd be able to trace down the leak, and repair the defect. We wouldn't charge them a second time for refrigerant, which is nice because it's getting expensive!

I know this isn't helpful from a do-it-yourself perspective, but maybe it helps to know a bit about how the mechanics would handle it.
__________________
03 WJ Limited, 4" Zone, 265/75/16 Duratracs, Addco rear swaybar
89 XJ Pioneer: Stock with 31s and a trim. Sold
99 XJ Sport: 2" on 31s with armor and dents. Sold
74 Nova - 2" drop and disc conv. Sold.
My videos
tizzdizz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-13-2007, 06:00 AM   #3
tangofox007
Web Wheeler
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: GA
Posts: 5,911
Quote:
Originally Posted by ar275103
How hard of an install was it, how long did it take and what can I expect to spend on this
It's a lot easier to take the 609 certification test online and buy some R12. R134a seldoms provides great results in a R12 system.
tangofox007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-13-2007, 07:47 AM   #4
75SV1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,061
I am no expert, but have looked into this. Some systems convert over from R12 to R134a and work good. On some systems its just an o-ring change, drier and expansion valve plus the scharder valves for R134a. I talked with my neihbor and he said the Jeep's A/C don't blow cold air enough air when converted.
I am converting a Mercedes 240D so I had to learn a bit about the problem. Basically R134a takes more pressure to cool down. This means more head pressure at the condensor. Also, possibly a better compressor and evaporator. The good news is the later XJs used R134a. I'd look at Napa, Advanced etc for a parrallel flow condensor and then change the o-rings (green type), expansion valve (if aplicable or what ever the newer systems use) and a new drier. The condensor should be around $200, the drier $40-80, the o-rings and scharder valves $30. You probably do need to figure out were your leak is at. The evaporator rust out (the one in the dash). You have to take out the dash to get to it.
Tom
75SV1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-13-2007, 07:58 AM   #5
tangofox007
Web Wheeler
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: GA
Posts: 5,911
Quote:
Originally Posted by 75SV1
I am converting a Mercedes 240D so I had to learn a bit about the problem.
Don't even think about it!!!
tangofox007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-13-2007, 08:04 AM   #6
88XJ_WI
Registered User
1988 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Merrill, WI
Posts: 535
I changed mine over because the 134a is easier to get. It doesn't cool that great. But my compressor is the original one I think so it's pretty much worn out I think.

and, if you go here you can get certified so you can buy R12. The test is only $15 and it is an open book test, or at least it was when I took it two years ago.
__________________
88XJ Laredo
4.0 L, AW4 190,000 miles

96 Grand Cherokee 4.0 145,000 miles
88XJ_WI is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-13-2007, 08:06 AM   #7
75SV1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,061
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007
Don't even think about it!!!
I don't see your point.
Tom
75SV1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.