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Cleaning my engine (Posted in engine section, but no replys, so im trying here)
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Cleaning my engine (Posted in engine section, but no replys, so im trying here)
I have a 95 cherokee country 4x4 with a I6 that has around 144k miles on it. THere is a nasty black coat of oil and grease/dirt on the engine, and components. How can i clean it off without damaging the electronics and other important things under the hood?
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#2 |
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Web Wheeler
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Get some plastic bags and cover everything that looks important (ie. you don't want to get wet). I personally use Castrol Super-Clean. Follow directions on the bottle. I use a scrub brush to help the process. Pull out the hose and spray it down making sure you get all the residue off. CSC works wonders...
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#3 |
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Registered User
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you can go to a carwash and see if they'll steam clean the engine bay. I work at a shop and customers always come in with steamcleaned engines, and it seems to work pretty well...
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03 WJ Limited, 4" Zone, 265/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs 89 XJ Pioneer: Stock with 31s and a trim. Sold 99 XJ Sport: 2" on 31s with armor and dents. Sold 74 Nova - 2" drop and disc conv. Sold. My videos |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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simple green works really well too. there was a thread on this a bit ago, ill see if i can find it, one guy ahd an engine bay that was SO clean!
EDIT: Found the link Engine cleaning thread
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[URL=http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/reader-rigs/SHNIPE]97 TJ Black 4 banger and proud of it - Click for pics[/URL] [URL=http://www.virtualjeepclub.com]Arizona Virtual Jeep Club and our Message Board[/URL] [SIZE=3][B]Black Jeep Club V.2 #78 or #98 or #108 a hell its too screwed up to know for sure so im takin #111 damnit![/B][/SIZE] |
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#5 |
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Little Red Menace
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IMO don't use the car wash degreaser. You'll have less control on the water flow. Just buy a couple of bottles of Simple grean, some brake cleaner (airisol cans), and a set of small and large steel tooth and plastic tooth brushes.
It will take longer, but it will do less harm.
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93 Sport Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy............Ben Franklin Specs in Profile. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/325707/1 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2406854/1 |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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On my vehicles I go to the self-carwash and set the thing on "tire cleaner" and spray that all over the engine(once it's cooled a bit). Then let it sit and switch back to high pressure H2O and wash it all off. I Don't cover anything and I've never had any problems. Gets the engine sparkling clean.
-tibim
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99 XJ RE 3.5" Superflex w/ BFG AT KO 31x10.5 on AR Outlaw IIs |
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 1,305
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Steam cleaning is the best option in my opinion as degreasers can cause damage to plastic or rubber parts. Steam doesnt so much...and steam cleaning works VERY well.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I just cover up my distributer and K&N filter on the intake, spray it all down with simple green let it sit for a few then hose it off. I've also used regular engine degreaser and it works pretty well too.
on my grand am I've used spray degreaser called Steam (its in a black arosol can with gray letters) works absolutely great.
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Steve '99 Jeep Cherokee Sport Chilli Pepper Red Pearl www.myspace.com/nuthinfancycc |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South Bay Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,538
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true; forum has great ideas.
my 2 cents: Simple green Large Soft Bristlebrush from dollar store Carwash water jet on very low setting Warm engine....spray the simple green....scrub gently....rinse gently WITH engine running....and then drive/idle it until completely dry....that way no problems with water getting where it should not....and don't spray the shi t out of it on hot engine parts with cold water....just a gentle, slow stream. The carwash water is Deionized and has no minerals in it.....it dries without any residue...and is why cars done at home always have a white powder on it from water residue. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Especially avoid getting the TPS sensor wet--- they don't like water very much at all!
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96XJ Sport 4.0 Auto CommandTrac, Chrys. 8.25, 1-3/4" BB, WARN HS9500 winch, WARN Body Armor front & rear bumpers, tire carrier, rock sliders and transfer case skid plate. 30x9.5 BFG Mud-Terrain T/A's. As of March 10, 2011, there are 205K miles on the clock and she's still good and strong! |
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#11 |
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Redefining body roll
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With my other 4x4's, there was a car wash right beside where we went wheeling, so I would throw a buck or two in the machine spray off the under side, brakes and the engine with it running. A few blasts from a foot or two away usually took care of it.
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2005 G35 Sedan Sport Package | Mostly Stock 1999.5 Ford F250 6.8l V10 l Auto l 4WD l 4" Spring Lift | 4.30 Gears | 35" Treadwright MT/R's 1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo Stock | European Headlight Conversion!!1! |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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I would recommend leaving the engine running, seems to cause less problems with getting moisture in the distrubutor.
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sold my 96' XJ Look'n to purchase now |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Yes leave the engine running when you power wash it. If you get something wet while it's running then there is enough force to keep it running. But if you get something wet when it's off you may not be able to start it until it dries then everyone behind you will get pissed off.
I have power washed mine for years this way with no problems. If you are going to do it on a regular basis then get some dielctric grease and fill the boots on your wires with it then stick them back on. You should have a tad squeeze out. That should seal the wires. You could also put some silicone under the cap to seal that too.
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89'XJ, I6, 4.0l, 30X9.5 BFG TA's, Rusty's air tube and K&N filter, Flowmaster 50 and hollowed cat, Hesco high flow water pump, high flow thermostat housing, Optima Redtop, Mean Green starter, TB conversion(Renix -> HO), ACOS up front, S-10 leafs in the rear for 3", Skyjacker nitro shocks, Rusties HD adjustable trac bar(newer version with better fabrication) Adjustable map sensor. 89' XJ Pioneer Stock (wifes) |
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