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Unread 04-06-2010, 09:45 PM   #1
deadhead513
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Cherokee runs rough after temp rises above 215 and jeep is off

I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. When it is warm out 70 or so and the engine temp is 210 or so, if i shut the jeep off and come back in ten minutes when I start the jeep and the temp is 215 or more the engine runs real rough for about 2 or 3 minutes until the fan come on and the temp goes down to 210.
After i drive a little while the temp goes back down to 195/200 and no problems...When I bought the car dealer installed some shield across the exhust manifold....That was suppose to help but it hasn't. I know I read somewhere there was a recall about a sheild near the 3rd cylinder?
Anyway the Jeep only has 33,000 miles on it....The whole coolant system has been flushed it was all rusty, new radaitor, thermastat, water pump. My mechanic put 100% antifreeze in. He said it would be better because their was a lot of rust in the old stuff. Any help would be appreciated!!!
Anyone know of a good and reliable jeep dealer/mechanic in Northern Jersey?

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Unread 04-06-2010, 09:50 PM   #2
cherokeekid58
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I am have the same problem, someone suggested the mechanical fan clutch is going bad so im going to check that tom, as for the shop try OK4wd other than that i know a shop in PA, shoemaker jeep in i think its allentown area
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:07 PM   #3
deadhead513
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I think this is may be it.....
1803103 - 4.0L ROUGH ENGINE IDLE AFTER RESTART FOLLOWING A HOT SOAK
Date: 09/05/03 (supercedes 1802702 dated 09/06/02)
Model Year(s): 1999-2004

Description: NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 4.0L engine. This bulletin involves the installation of a fuel injector insulator sleeve.

Details: Customers may describe a 20 to 30 second rough idle following the restart of a heat soaked engine. This condition may be most noticeable when the engine is restarted following a prior 10 to 20 minute heat soak in hot ambient conditions of approximately 32 C (90F) or higher. This condition may be consistent with short city stop-and-go driving trips and can be aggravated by the use of fuel with a high ethanol content. Depending upon various conditions a MIL may occur due to DTC P0303 - Cylinder #3 Misfire.

This condition may be caused by heat from the exhaust manifold that following engine shut down migrates to the area around injector #3 and causes fuel vapor to form within the injector. This in turn may cause a momentary misfire of cylinder #3 until the fuel vapor is cleared of injector #3. The insulator sleeve lowers the injector #3 temperature to a point below which the fuel will not normally vaporize.

If vehicle exhibits a rough idle, and if a misfire of cylinder #3 is observed following a 10 to 20 minute hot soak, perform the Repair Procedure.

Parts required:
56028371AA Ignition Wire Shield

Repair procedure:
1. Cut insulator sleeve, p/n 56028371AA, to make two (2) insulator sleeves about 25-30 mm (1 in.) in length. See diagram.
2. Install one sleeve around injector #3, with the slit on the upward facing side of the injector. Install the other sleeve with the slit on the downward facing side of the injector.
3. Confirm sleeve is flush to intake manifold surface around injector.
4. Check injector #3 wire and ensure that the injector is rotated to a 2 o'clock position (from driver?s side of vehicle).
to a the letter...
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:18 PM   #4
jimbosz07
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There was just a thread about this yesterday I think. The general census was that the fuel rail got overheated and vaporized the fuel inside it. It runs like crap until all the vapor is burned out. Hood vents was the most popular fix, though another idea was to wrap the fuel rail in an insulator
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:47 PM   #5
justanotherjpr
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"If you get a CEL, likely it is the dreaded P0303. I had the same problem. I tried the heat wrap and hood vents, neither really helped. I wired a manual override switch to the aux fan so that I can turn it on anytime - even when the Jeep is off. If I know I'll be stopped for just a few minutes, I'll leave the switch on and run the fan. Sometimes if it's really hot out, I'll run the fan for a few minutes (2-3) before I get out of the Jeep (If I expect to be stopped for 15-45 minutes)"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/r...eling-1006475/
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:47 PM   #6
deadhead513
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That would make a lot of sense....There is no where for all that heat to go when it is standing still....
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:49 PM   #7
deadhead513
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What is CEL???
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:51 PM   #8
justanotherjpr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadhead513 View Post
What is CEL???
Check engine light
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So do you actually hear your thoughts in your head or is it just sort of a dull roar before you smash your face into your keyboard and just submit whatever dumb **** ended up on the page?
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:59 PM   #9
deadhead513
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lol!!!! Never got a check engine light.......not once.....read somewhere about changing brand of fuel....
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Unread 04-06-2010, 11:01 PM   #10
deadhead513
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Funny there was a hole in the dash when i bought the jeep.....maybe someoneelse did tha???? So you did the injector wrap and nothing changed????
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Unread 04-07-2010, 03:59 AM   #11
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadhead513 View Post
...... My mechanic put 100% antifreeze in. He said it would be better because their was a lot of rust in the old stuff. ...?
Anti-freeze/coolant is always supposed to be a 50%-50% mix of antifreeze and water. Have yours tested ASAP. Incorrect concentrations of the antifreeze can lead to a frozen block in the winter or a cracked head in the summer. In this case, more is not better.
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Unread 04-07-2010, 04:27 AM   #12
Carves
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
Anti-freeze/coolant is always supposed to be a 50%-50% mix of antifreeze and water. Have yours tested ASAP. Incorrect concentrations of the antifreeze can lead to a frozen block in the winter or a cracked head in the summer. In this case, more is not better.
As above X 2
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