Cherokee Keeps Stalling!! Tried Everything!! - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 14 Old 12-01-2012, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
FleXJeep37
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Cherokee Keeps Stalling!! Tried Everything!!

It all started 4 months ago when she decided to stall out on my way home from work. She turned back on and I managed to get her home. She was bucking and RPMs were going crazy and misfiring like a mutha ******. So I didnt drive her for a few days until I decided to take her to autozone to get the codes read. They told me the Crankshaft Sensor and Camshaft sensor needed to be changed as well as all the O2 sensors. I decided to start with the first two and see if it fixed the problem. I managed to get her driving better but still misfiring and dying out every once in a while. Then they told me to change the Temp Sensor Plugs and coil pack which I did and it seemed to help out a little more. Mind you i still had not changed the o2 sensors because she was running good enough where she wasnt bucking like crazy but the CEL was still turning on.

I decided to take her to a mechanic and explained everything I had done and they told me they were pulling codes from the comp which are p0351 p1389 p0352 and p0353. They said they needed to change the PCM for 500 and program it which i knew was bull**** because ive heard of people getting PCMs from auto comp exchange for cheap and they are plug and play. So i took my car ordered the comp and plugged it in and presto, she was even better! Even still the truck was running rough but better where i can drive her 7 miles each way to work and back. After each way the CEL would come one and she would misfire. I learned if you hold the positive cable to ground you can clear and saved codes to erase the memory which I was doing after every trip to get to work and back.

After much frustration I bought a scan tool to clear the Crankshaft sensor code that kept popping up from the connection under the steering wheel which saved me alot of time in between trips. Still puzzled by all this I decided to remove the aftermarket Crankshaft sensor and put in the old one to see if it made any difference. She ran better than ever and now im not getting any CEL.

That all only lasted a few days until I took her on the expressway and was driving at about 50 and she bucked really hard 3 times then drove fine after that. A few days later she turned of at idle. Sat for 5 min and started up again. Then the next day RPMs went to zero and car wouldnt go when applied the gas. I floored it and RPMs went normal and drove fine. Now im noticing that the oil pressure sometimes drops to 20 while idle and back up over 40 when im accelerating. Im so sick of throwing money at her and I cant figure out what to do now. Oil Pump? Sending Unit? Please help! Its my only car and im tapped out. What can it be

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post #2 of 14 Old 12-01-2012, 10:03 PM
CJ7-Tim
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If you have Check Engine Light (CEL) trouble codes, you need to fix them. Start with the lowest number codes.

Bucking and stalling are symptoms of failing O2 sensors. You should test them for proper function and probably will have to replace them.

Keep in mind that the signals from the engine sensors need to have top quality wire connections to send their signals to the computer. Damaged wires, corroded wire harness plugs, excessive wire resistance, poor ground connections, and cheap crappy "Lifetime Warranty" sensors can also be the source of the codes. If the computer cannot see the sensor data, it behaves the same way as if the sensor itself has failed.


Google: O-scopes, Scan Tools and Toothpicks. Read the article. Have your timing adjusted.

.

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Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

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post #3 of 14 Old 12-01-2012, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
FleXJeep37
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I have read and tried the toothpick method also. Have not taken it to have the timing checked by a mechanic which I will do. Thanks for the feedback. As soon as I can afford all new sensors for the ones i have changed with the cheap aftermarket ones I will do so and post my results. Thanks
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post #4 of 14 Old 12-02-2012, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
FleXJeep37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
If you have Check Engine Light (CEL) trouble codes, you need to fix them. Start with the lowest number codes.

Bucking and stalling are symptoms of failing O2 sensors. You should replace them.

Keep in mind that the signals from the engine sensors need to have top quality wire connections to send their signals to the computer. Damaged wires, corroded wire harness plugs, excessive wire resistance, poor ground connections, and cheap crappy "Lifetime Warranty" sensors can also be the source of the codes. If the computer cannot see the sensor data, it behaves that same way as if the sensor itself has failed.


Google: O-scopes, Scan Tools and Toothpicks. Read the article. Have your timing adjusted.
I have read and tried the toothpick method also. Have not taken it to have the timing checked by a mechanic which I will do. Thanks for the feedback. As soon as I can afford all new sensors for the ones i have changed with the cheap aftermarket ones I will do so and post my results. Thanks
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-02-2012, 02:01 PM
buildin1XJ
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You can not adjust timing on your 01 Cherokee.
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-02-2012, 06:31 PM
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buildin1XJ View Post
You can not adjust timing on your 01 Cherokee.
Adjusting timing on a 00-01 XJ requires the use of a DRB-III scan tool. Jeep dealerships and some larger auto repair shops have the DRB-III.

.

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Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #7 of 14 Old 01-13-2013, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
FleXJeep37
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Thanks for all the info. I have recently taken a Crankshaft Sensor from a 00 XJ from the junkyard and replaced the AfterMarket Crankshaft Sensor and it works great! She hasnt stalled on me for about a month now. The only issue now is the RPMS are still fluctuating between 500 and 750. I also notice when I turn on my heater the RPMs tend get higher when it cycling through.

So when the heater is on I can hear like the motor turns on and off every few minutes or so, (is that the A/C compressor clutch being engaged on and off???) but anyways when the heater is on and this is happening the RPM will get a little higher to about 1000RPMs, and it feels like the truck is trying to push forward and I have to apply the brake a little tighter so I wont rear end anyone in front of me.

This is the first I have ever dealt with this on any vehicle. I have always ran the heater without the fear its going to take off on its own. What can that be???
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post #8 of 14 Old 01-13-2013, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
FleXJeep37
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CJ7-Tim,

How much does it usually run to get your timing adjusted by a DRB-III? Will this fix the RPM fluctuation issue??
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post #9 of 14 Old 01-13-2013, 08:06 AM
Kalali
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Fluctuating idle speed could be caused by a dirty Intake Air Control Valve - IACV. Takes about 15-20 minutes to clean it up. Use intake cleaner spray not carb cleaner. Less aggressive on alum parts.
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post #10 of 14 Old 01-13-2013, 08:29 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Are all of your tune-up parts fresh ?

Clean the Idle Air Control valve as already suggested. Use some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank with the nest 2 fill-ups.

If you have the climate control set to DEFROST, the A/C compressor will cycle on and off. It would not be unusual for the rpm's to fluctuate slightly when the compressor cycles.

.

A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.

Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #11 of 14 Old 01-13-2013, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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I have recently cleaned out the throttle body and replaced the IAC when all my problems started with the stalling and bucking. The IAC is one from Advanced Auto (not OEM). Would that make a difference. I know the Jeeps are very sensitive when it comes to aftermarket parts. Would the IAC be one of those that needs to be Dealer or Napa like others on the Forum recommend?

As far as tune-up, I am coming up on my 3000 mile oil change soon.

Spark plugs were changed out with Coppers about 2 months ago. The coil pack is also new (Advanced not OEM). I have reason to believe my truck may be running a bit rich because i pulled the plugs about 2 weeks ago and the were a bit rosey colored. Should I change them again or get my timing fixed then change the plugs?

Also, what are some key factors that would make a car run rich?

Thanks for all your help!
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post #12 of 14 Old 01-13-2013, 11:55 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FleXJeep37 View Post
... what are some key factors that would make a car run rich?
Failing O2 sensors, or a cracked exhaust manifold. Most XJ Cherokee 4.0L have a cracked exhaust manifold.

.

A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.

Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-20-2016, 04:14 PM
reapernow
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I have a solution to the GC Dying/Stalling issue!
I've been down the above path for years, and out of the blue, 'Randy' a guy on Craigslist stopped by and got me thinking.

On this GC there is the ccv in the back of the valve cover, which then runs to the intake manifold for vacuum. The intake runs over to the.... wait for it..... PURGE SOLENOID! . If it is bad, like mine was, it will stop the vacuum to the intake, send codes to the PCM, and you engine will die, stall, and periodically get hard to start.

You can read all about this nasty critical part on the web, so I'll not go there.

RESULTS! I replaced this 40$ part, and my jeep ran like a champ.

That's it in a nut shell. I'm posting this solution in as many groups as I can find, that I have reviewed in the several years working this problem. Please pass this on to others, and if you want, provide my contact info as credit. Just trying to contribute to this HUGE problem our GC's are having.

Try it, and let me know.

Sincerely,

The reaper(now).
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-12-2016, 11:48 PM
TracieJ
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My '99 Cherokee Sport sputtered like this. Sometimes ran fine but coming off a hill or sharp turn or just randomly, bucked, sometimes with a loud clunk. I frequently put injector cleaner, dry gas, even octane boost, and it cleared up for a short while. It gave itself gas on rough idle, in traffic, so I'd put it neutral when it was acting up. It ended up being TPS, throttle position sensor. The screw heads easily strip,T20. I cut head, didn't work, threaded through. Major pain since it faces firewall and tight to get drill in position.
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