c4x4 Tow Hook Pre-97 Install - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 01-27-2010, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
csouers
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
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c4x4 Tow Hook Pre-97 Install

Yello. I got some c4x4 tow hooks from 4pointOH1998 last saturday. First off I have to say the transaction was FLAWLESS and that these things are BEEFY. Money very well spent if you ask me.

Spent some time on the weekend cleaning and primmering the two hook retainers. They look nice and silver now.

I can't seem to find any pre-97 write ups for installing these, so I figured I'd make one. Maybe some can refer to it if they need it. Okay, time to get this underway.

Bumper is taken off. Requires a T50 Hex head. I used air tools, but you may not need them.


Next three are taking the OEM brackets off. Be careful, as these will be reused later on.





The little things that the brackets bolt into broke so I had to extract the bolt some how. Vice grips worked flawlessly. You will not reuse this part.

Brackets removed. (Don't mind the yellow cable. That's my HD headlight harness.

Had to trim the wind dam to fit the L-shaped brackets. You will never tell with everything buttoned back up.











Dirty cut. Plastic has a tend to melt when it gets hot.

Cleaned up. Not bad for a first time hacker

Left Side bracket installed.You can mount the bolts to the crossmember either way. I did it like this because it seems easiest to me and will make sense later.

Now time to trim the wind dam some more. Put the bracket up where it would go and mark where you need to cut. Then, well, cut it.





This is the far bolt that is by the sway bar. On the passenger side this bolt is easy to get to. Slide the bolt through the outside towards the engine. If you use the c4x4 bolts, unlike me, it will lock because of the shape of the hole in the bracket. If you're like me and have to use SAE equivalents of metric bolts, then you may have some issues with the swaybar hitting the bolt head on bumps. I still need to find a way to resolve this and will update this when I do.

The original bracket is bolted through the "frame" holes and the L bracket. Make sure that the fartest bolt of the "triangle" on the bracket is put in before ANYTHING ELSE. This bolt is nutted in the frame and cannot be moved easily.



1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

My Photography

Last edited by csouers; 01-27-2010 at 09:49 PM.
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post #2 of 6 Old 01-27-2010, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
csouers
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bloomington
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continued:






Here you can clearly see the old bolt as it is all rusty and dirty. I would recommend using the old bolt for this, unless the metric ones fit, then by all means use those.

Button it all up and tighten it all down. Passenger side done. Now on to the driver as this one is a bit more tricky

Once again trimming is required. Follow the same steps as before. line what needs to be cut, cut it, then clean it up.

On the drivers side is the steering box and it gets in the way of putting the bolt through to the outside for the bracket. I have small hands, so I was able to JUST BARELY get them in and KEEP them in. I put washers on both sides, as this metal is fairly thin.

All done. Everything is tightened up TIGHT. Check over again for loose bolts or things you may have took up/removed bolts from.





I started this project at around 9pm. I didn't get back into the house after all the cleaning until about 1 o'clock with getting to bed a 2...and I had school the next day.








When you are installing all the nuts and bolts, I recommend getting them just enough to where the nut is on the bolt all the way but not to where you can't adjust things, need be to get other stuff aligned. If I would have done this, I would have probably subtracted 45 mins off of my install. Oh well. Live and learn I guess.

After driving it to school today, the sway bar is indeed hitting the bolt head for the rear hole (closest to cab) on the bracket whenever the suspension compress enough to move the swaybar the bit need to make contact with the head. Because I used bolts that I already had, grade 8 SAE I believe, the bolt head is not the same as if I were to use the c4x4 bolts because they have a rounded head.

I may have to grind off a bit of the bolt head just a bit to make it stop. I guess I'll do a swaybar-connected articulation test after that to see if it fixes it. I really don't want to grind at the sway bar because if I get it off, it might not go back on... But then again I don't want to grind the bolt away if i'll ever need to get it back off.

I'll post updates. Tell me what you think or want to see more of. I'd be glad to get some more pictures for you guys.

PS. My xj looks like poo when it's dirty like that. Mud covered on the side I can do, but on the front end, no thank you

1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

My Photography

Last edited by csouers; 01-27-2010 at 09:48 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-27-2010, 07:29 PM
4pointOH1998
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Nice job man

-Bryan- ΚΔΦ-MΘΣΝΔ
Fighting the rust since April '08...
A Maine XJ Nightcrew!
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post #4 of 6 Old 01-27-2010, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
csouers
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Update: I broke down and got the carriage bolt from lowes. Even grinding the head down on the one I had didn't give me the needed clearance.

Just went and got a 1/2 x 4 even though the "instructions" call for a 1/2 x 3.5. Worked just fine. The little extra length won't hurt anything.

I was having trouble keeping the nut on the bolt when I put ANY torque on it. I got so pissed I just left it and came back inside. An hour later, I cooled off and went back to check my nut size (...). Yes, you're probably thinking that I'm an idiot. Yes, I was using a nut that was too big but small enough to seem like it would work. Don't be me. It'll save you A LOT of breath and pain. (Many curse words were said in the course of this endeavor.)

The swaybar STILL hits bolt head even with the carriage bolt in it. I'm not too worried about it because it doesn't do it as often. If I wanted to, I could grind the head down, but at least now I'm not worried about it ripping head off of the damn thing. My swaybar likes to shimmy around side to side due to the essential lack of bushings as they've all turned into fairy dust over the years.

I have no clue what's holding my XJ together sometimes.

BTW. This is what you want to get. It's a 1/2 x 4 carriage bolt from lowes. I got the non-galvanized steel bolt. (dad told me not to. can someone explain why? I'm assuming less strength?)

(those are the wrong nuts. Figured that out after installing these.)


1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

My Photography

Last edited by csouers; 01-27-2010 at 10:03 PM.
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-28-2010, 12:50 AM
d250383
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non-galvanized rust faster.
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post #6 of 6 Old 01-28-2010, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
csouers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d250383 View Post
non-galvanized rust faster.
gotcha. that would be bad.

1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

My Photography
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