Disconnect the battery and just be careful. I have read about people hard-wiring the connections to get away from the plug as mentioned in this JPmagazine article: C-101
For once, we aren't talking about Trasborg's pile of Jeepsters. We've hit on this one before in these pages, but it is worth covering again. The '87, '88, and some of the '89 model years had this wonderful connector, called the C-101 connector. It connected all the wiring from the inside of the Jeep to the wiring outside of the Jeep. The problem is, it is over 20 years old and is mounted right at the top of the firewall where all the water cascading off of a newly-opened hood can go. If all that wasn't enough to prove a point, there is a TSB from Jeep way back in '89 that provided a crankshaft sensor bypass kit and instructions to get around the C-101 connector and keep the Jeep running. Most of the '89 models, and all of the '90 models didn't even have the C-101, they just went to a rubber grommet passing the wires through the firewall.
Prevention: You can build a rain shield for it, or just be aware of it when you open the hood. Periodic disassembly, cleaning, dielectric-greasing, and reassembly also help the issues.
Cure: Get rid of it. Solder all the wires from the inside of the Jeep to the corresponding wires from the outside of the Jeep and heatshrink it. All the issues will be gone forever. The risk is if you cross wires just once you can fry stuff pretty easily.
Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy............Ben Franklin
well cleaning and dielectric grease was the order of the day for me but it still looks like total **** to be honest. everything on the dash works now and she runs a little better (but that may be from closing some vacuum connections off).
it didn't look like the wire colors would match up at first glance but i wasn't planning on bypassing it today. if they do i think it would be well worth the time to get out the solder and heat shrink tubing.
heck, soldering on the Jeep isn't like real work because you can't bleed from being stupid (the wound cauterizes itself).
'87 XJ Pioneer with 32" KM2s, etc.
I clean out all the tar crap with a pocket screwdriver real thoroughly. Then, I soak a rag good with Brake Cleaner and wipe off both halves of the connector numerous times. After that, I spray both halves with a good contact cleaner. Wait a bit and then slap on some dielectric grease just before putting it back together. I beleieve this should be done on all of these old Jeeps along with refreshing and adding grounds to the engine area.
thanks for the pointer cruiser54, I found that wrapping a small screw driver with a blue paper shop towel worked well at getting the gunk out of the connector.
However, after thoroughly cleaning it 3 times (and connecting it) with no good outcomes, I gave up on it yesterday and replaced the whole thing with butt connectors; just too many variables in that connector to try and control when you're having engine issues. I noticed that it's mostly just engine sensors/control running through that connector? The fuel pump, interior lights, starter, radio, etc. all work with it disconnected. but somehow, it feels like my windows are faster now... dunno how...
1992 YJ 1"Body Lift, Slip Yoke Eliminator & CV Driveshaft,
2.5" TJ exhaust, WJ valve cover, XJ Computer, External Slave Cyl AX15,
Durango Steeringbox, No track or sway bars, CJ tailgate, on 31's :)