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Unread 01-02-2008, 08:39 PM   #76
Feorge_Goreman
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great writeup!

i'm gunna try this in the next few weeks, a few quick questions about my a/c though;

1. I need to get it professionally removed, right? No way to do it myself?

2. If I get it removed, I can leave the compressor with nothing attached, just plug the holes for a bit?

Thanks

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Unread 01-15-2008, 07:15 PM   #77
tkjeeper
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Hey Russo, awesome writeup! I have done a ton of research on this subject and read a lot of different setups but this one tops them all. Congratulations, I will be passing this on to everyone who asks on NAXJA. Just one question, I have heard of problems with the oiler or filter (cant remember which) with a plastic housing, melting. Have you had any issues with this? I have 2 oilers and I'm not sure which to use although both are the plastic type. I have the exact one that you have but I also have one with the bottle hanging below like the filter/separator. It seems like the latter holds more oil and would require less filling but it seems like it may flow less air into the compressor. I would appreciate your insight into this issue as it seems you have really put yours through some serious use. Thanks for the awesome effort you put out.
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Unread 01-15-2008, 08:14 PM   #78
n20jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydontno
great writeup!


1. I need to get it professionally removed, right? No way to do it myself?

2. If I get it removed, I can leave the compressor with nothing attached, just plug the holes for a bit?

Thanks
if you wanna stay legal, then you need to have your A/C freon evacuated at a shop....other than that, you can remove everything else on your own
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Unread 01-15-2008, 08:19 PM   #79
lifted92xj
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and it will spray everywhere if you try to do it yourself, it will make a nasty gooey mess
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Unread 01-15-2008, 08:27 PM   #80
funinmud
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Too bad here in AZ the A/C is a VERY USEFUL Component, otherwise i would so be doing this!
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Unread 01-15-2008, 08:41 PM   #81
lifted92xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funinmud
Too bad here in AZ the A/C is a VERY USEFUL Component, otherwise i would so be doing this!
just take your doors off haha..fixed your problem
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Unread 01-15-2008, 08:43 PM   #82
n20jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted92xj
just take your doors off haha..fixed your problem
exactly...
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Unread 01-15-2008, 08:54 PM   #83
funinmud
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HAHA with it being 105 all day, even the AC usually isnt quite sufficient even LOL. But i gotta love the looks of doorless! Maybe on the next XJ! min eis totalled but i'm looking for a new one! i cant wait!
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Unread 01-15-2008, 08:56 PM   #84
lifted92xj
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that suckss how do you get to keep it if they totaled it?...too bad you dont live by me i could find out one for about 600
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Unread 01-15-2008, 09:01 PM   #85
funinmud
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well, they totalled it. and my 2 options are to give them the jeep and get a check for 3400 bucks or keep the jeep with a salvaged title( in which it cannot be registered) and get a check for 3100 bucks. so i'm keeping it to sell it and buy another one for around 4300 or less. pretty good deal IMHO considering the wreck was 100% the other guys fault. however it is still driveable
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Unread 01-15-2008, 10:56 PM   #86
RussoGuitar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkjeeper
Hey Russo, awesome writeup! I have done a ton of research on this subject and read a lot of different setups but this one tops them all. Congratulations, I will be passing this on to everyone who asks on NAXJA. Just one question, I have heard of problems with the oiler or filter (cant remember which) with a plastic housing, melting. Have you had any issues with this? I have 2 oilers and I'm not sure which to use although both are the plastic type. I have the exact one that you have but I also have one with the bottle hanging below like the filter/separator. It seems like the latter holds more oil and would require less filling but it seems like it may flow less air into the compressor. I would appreciate your insight into this issue as it seems you have really put yours through some serious use. Thanks for the awesome effort you put out.
hey man thanks.. the oiler i have has a plastic housing i have not had any issue with it melting or deforming due to heat. The intake side of the compressor stays relativley cool, its the output side that gets hot. The second oiler that you mention, the one with the bottle sounds like its a mist oiler, which would oil more efficiently then the regular in line oiler. As for the flow, it should be alright.. try blowing through it and if seems unrestricted then its should be fine.. if it is hard to blow through then it may restrict your flow. good luck and ill be glad to answer anymore questions..
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Unread 01-16-2008, 04:10 AM   #87
Flexin' XJ
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Nice write up. I converted mine this summer and it didn't look nearly as nice as yours.

The question was asked earlier about the threads on the compressor lines, they are not pipe thread. They are flare thread. Similar, but different. I ended up buying two factory a/c hoses from the junk yard for $2 and cut the compressor ends off at the metal and using compression to pipe fittings to then connect everything else.

Have you had an issue with your line dryer cracking from the heat? I had the exact same one as you and within a month, my bowl cracked and I had a large air leak. They are only rated for 125* and the engine compartment gets hotter than that on its own. I ended up using an air filter for a compressor but after a while the fittings ended up breaking and I lost the filter out the bottom of the engine compartment and the rest broke.

I had one air chuck in the engine compartment, a 50' air hose, 25' air hose and a 5 gallon air tank with a custom built manifold. I used the 25' hose to connect to the tank from the enigine compartment and the 50' hose to connect to my air tool.

I also have the same oiler as you. I may redo some stuff as you did this summer.






The silver air chuck on the tank is a universal chuck, it will accept most make air fittings. The gold ones are specific to one fitting. I did it that way so if I needed a longer air hose on the tank, any one will work. Plus there is another universal chuck on the end of my 50' hose to accept any air tool fitting.

Are you running a pressure relief valve for when your compressor turns off it will relieve pressure between the check valve and the compressor for easier compressor starting? That is what the 1/4" copper line is for.
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Unread 01-16-2008, 05:58 AM   #88
tkjeeper
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oba

Quote:
Originally Posted by RussoGuitar
hey man thanks.. the oiler i have has a plastic housing i have not had any issue with it melting or deforming due to heat. The intake side of the compressor stays relativley cool, its the output side that gets hot. The second oiler that you mention, the one with the bottle sounds like its a mist oiler, which would oil more efficiently then the regular in line oiler. As for the flow, it should be alright.. try blowing through it and if seems unrestricted then its should be fine.. if it is hard to blow through then it may restrict your flow. good luck and ill be glad to answer anymore questions..
The only other question I have is that oiler you have seems small, it seems like you would be constantly filling it up, is that the case? I have heard that with the oiler in such close proximity to the output it has deformed but if you have had no issues than that's good enough for me. Thanks for the reply.
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Unread 01-16-2008, 06:44 AM   #89
RussoGuitar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkjeeper
The only other question I have is that oiler you have seems small, it seems like you would be constantly filling it up, is that the case? I have heard that with the oiler in such close proximity to the output it has deformed but if you have had no issues than that's good enough for me. Thanks for the reply.
It hasnt been an issue for me.. it seems that i can get two hard uses out of it before i have to refill it, and when i use it gets run or a real long time. So if your setup is only going to see moderate use then you should be fine.
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Unread 01-16-2008, 03:54 PM   #90
RussoGuitar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flexin' XJ
Nice write up. I converted mine this summer and it didn't look nearly as nice as yours.

The question was asked earlier about the threads on the compressor lines, they are not pipe thread. They are flare thread. Similar, but different. I ended up buying two factory a/c hoses from the junk yard for $2 and cut the compressor ends off at the metal and using compression to pipe fittings to then connect everything else.

Have you had an issue with your line dryer cracking from the heat? I had the exact same one as you and within a month, my bowl cracked and I had a large air leak. They are only rated for 125* and the engine compartment gets hotter than that on its own. I ended up using an air filter for a compressor but after a while the fittings ended up breaking and I lost the filter out the bottom of the engine compartment and the rest broke.

I had one air chuck in the engine compartment, a 50' air hose, 25' air hose and a 5 gallon air tank with a custom built manifold. I used the 25' hose to connect to the tank from the enigine compartment and the 50' hose to connect to my air tool.

I also have the same oiler as you. I may redo some stuff as you did this summer.


The silver air chuck on the tank is a universal chuck, it will accept most make air fittings. The gold ones are specific to one fitting. I did it that way so if I needed a longer air hose on the tank, any one will work. Plus there is another universal chuck on the end of my 50' hose to accept any air tool fitting.

Are you running a pressure relief valve for when your compressor turns off it will relieve pressure between the check valve and the compressor for easier compressor starting? That is what the 1/4" copper line is for.
I havent had an issue with my dryer and its been used at really high temps. The remote mounted crankcase filter works awsome. Iam not usining a reliefe between the check valve and compressor, and havent had an issue.
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