A/C to OBA conversion write up -PICS - Page 12 - JeepForum.com

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post #166 of 297 Old 01-18-2010, 02:46 PM
kjf45
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sorry mainly looking for the manifold and how you tied everything in.

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post #167 of 297 Old 01-18-2010, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussoGuitar View Post
you can use almost anything but i try to stay away from anything to thick, recently ive been using marvel mystery oil, seems to work well.
I've been using nothing but ATF in my system for about a year now and it runs smooth as silk. It was actually an experienced auto mechanic that advised me to use ATF when I told him that I was converting it over to OBA. I run a large drip oiler (about 1-2 drips per second) and pull the oil out of the air stream right after the compressor. I could probably get away with using less ATF but the pump seems to run cooler with the extra fluid flowing into it.

1990 Black 2 Door, Homemade 3" lift, 31x10.5 BFG AT's on rock crawlers, recovery front and rear, bed lined interior, rockerless, armored rear quarters, magnaflow muffler, CB, DIY Immobilizer, AC to OBA, Silverstars and a nice rack.
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325,000km young.
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post #168 of 297 Old 01-18-2010, 05:38 PM
1993sahara
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took off my ac lines today and hooked all the hoses up to the front connection now i just need my tank and to run the rear line..

93 Sahara 4.0, ax15, BDS 2 inch springs, MORE greasable 5/8hd shackles, Ford 8.8 rear, AA sye, Quigley cv shaft, 32" wrangler mtr with Kevlar
_____
/l ,[___],
l--L --[]lllll[]-

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post #169 of 297 Old 01-19-2010, 06:42 PM
1993sahara
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ran all the hoses today now i am just waiting for my air tank, the manifold, and pressure switch to show up. I have a question though regarding the inline oiler. i pretty much have the same one used in the original write up, just that its craftsmen. how well does this type of oiler work? and how often will i have to fill it up?


93 Sahara 4.0, ax15, BDS 2 inch springs, MORE greasable 5/8hd shackles, Ford 8.8 rear, AA sye, Quigley cv shaft, 32" wrangler mtr with Kevlar
_____
/l ,[___],
l--L --[]lllll[]-

()_) ()_)-o-)_)
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post #170 of 297 Old 01-23-2010, 03:55 AM
tbone64
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Posting to stay subscribed to this thread. This is the best write up on the a/c, oba conversion I have seen on any of the forums, very detailed and lots of info. Great job, should be doing mine soon.
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post #171 of 297 Old 01-23-2010, 10:29 PM
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I am new to this so sorry if it's a stupid question.

Could you make this without the tank?

Hose pressurizes to 120 psi (very quickly b/c no tank) then pressure switch shuts off compressor. When you hook up to a tire, pressure in the hose (and switch) drop to 10-15 psi (or whatever your tire is at), switch turns on, compressor starts. Once the tire reaches desired pressure, you unhook the hose. The pressure builds back to 120 psi (again, very quickly) in the hose and the compressor turns off.

If I was using this for only tires, my pressure switch on/off would be 40/60 psi.
I'm looking for switches and I see all these ones for water pumps that have single or three phases (SquareD, Dayton). Can someone give me a link for the right ones?

If I wanted air tools, would this work? Northern Tools shows here that a lot of tools will work with the 8 CFM that the Sanden puts out. However, will there be enough pressure without the extra reservoir the tank supplies? That chart at Northern tools shows it at 90 psi.

Again, I may be waaay off in my thinking. Let me know.

Last edited by XJTino; 01-24-2010 at 12:10 AM.
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post #172 of 297 Old 01-26-2010, 10:42 PM
1993sahara
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how well does this type of oiler work? and how often will i have to fill it up?
any answers to this... i have the same type of oiler.. my pic ^^^^^

93 Sahara 4.0, ax15, BDS 2 inch springs, MORE greasable 5/8hd shackles, Ford 8.8 rear, AA sye, Quigley cv shaft, 32" wrangler mtr with Kevlar
_____
/l ,[___],
l--L --[]lllll[]-

()_) ()_)-o-)_)
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post #173 of 297 Old 01-26-2010, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinomolloy View Post
I am new to this so sorry if it's a stupid question.

Could you make this without the tank?

Hose pressurizes to 120 psi (very quickly b/c no tank) then pressure switch shuts off compressor. When you hook up to a tire, pressure in the hose (and switch) drop to 10-15 psi (or whatever your tire is at), switch turns on, compressor starts. Once the tire reaches desired pressure, you unhook the hose. The pressure builds back to 120 psi (again, very quickly) in the hose and the compressor turns off.

If I was using this for only tires, my pressure switch on/off would be 40/60 psi.
I'm looking for switches and I see all these ones for water pumps that have single or three phases (SquareD, Dayton). Can someone give me a link for the right ones?

If I wanted air tools, would this work? Northern Tools shows here that a lot of tools will work with the 8 CFM that the Sanden puts out. However, will there be enough pressure without the extra reservoir the tank supplies? That chart at Northern tools shows it at 90 psi.

Again, I may be waaay off in my thinking. Let me know.
There's a chance that if you don't have airflow exceeding the output of the compressor (tire chuck doesn't, I know from experience) the compressor will chatter on and off. Quick way to destroy the clutch. Even a 1 gallon tank would solve that.

I refilled a neighbor's car tire a couple days ago. Even with my idle down at 500RPM or less it was filling the tank quicker than I could empty it into the tire.

Trust me, if you knock the RPM up to anything over 1,000 it will fill a 5 gallon tank in seconds. Those A/C compressors put out an INCREDIBLE amount of air. I can quite literally take my 5 gallon tank from 0-100psi in less than 20 seconds if I'm out on the street. There is no 110V/220V compressor is going to come close to the volume the A/C compressor can achieve. It's just not possible.

If you don't want to take up hatch area space with a tank, find a fire extinguisher company local to you. Grab a mid sized CO2 fire extinguisher and find an adapter to reduce the thread size down to 1/4"NPT and mount it to the left of the gas tank. If you find you need more capacity you could find other places to mount more of them. Hell, suspend one from each side of the roof, one above the spare and another on the other side.

I think when I go to redo my system I'm going to mount a couple scuba tanks on the roof rack and plumb them in. Maybe 4 of them. I'm sure I could find some de-certified ones. Scuba tanks are good to 3000psi, so my measly 100psi isn't going to hurt them. Plus they come in cool colors...

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post #174 of 297 Old 01-27-2010, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
RussoGuitar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993sahara View Post
how well does this type of oiler work? and how often will i have to fill it up?
any answers to this... i have the same type of oiler.. my pic ^^^^^
mine seemed to work well... filled it about once every maybe hour or so of actual time on the compressor.. i dont know hard to be exact just check it every so often..
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post #175 of 297 Old 03-10-2010, 04:54 PM
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First I didn't have time to go through this entire thread befire i ask this but here it goes, does anybody know how to check the a/c compressor to see if it works? my in dash switch doesn't work anymore. thanks in advance.
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post #176 of 297 Old 03-10-2010, 06:59 PM
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First I didn't have time to go through this entire thread befire i ask this but here it goes, does anybody know how to check the a/c compressor to see if it works? my in dash switch doesn't work anymore. thanks in advance.
On the compressor itself you'll find a single wire going to a connector right behind the compressor. Disconnect that plug and supply the compressor side of it with 12V with the engine running. You'll hear a loud "CLACK" as the compressor clutch engages and your engine RPM will drop by at least 100 due to the extra strain the compressor puts on it. If the clutch engages and your engine doesn't idle down, it's a good hint the compressor is shot.

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post #177 of 297 Old 03-11-2010, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mickey_D View Post
On the compressor itself you'll find a single wire going to a connector right behind the compressor. Disconnect that plug and supply the compressor side of it with 12V with the engine running. You'll hear a loud "CLACK" as the compressor clutch engages and your engine RPM will drop by at least 100 due to the extra strain the compressor puts on it. If the clutch engages and your engine doesn't idle down, it's a good hint the compressor is shot.
Thanks for the help, compiling a list of parts needed now. I already have two 3 gal tanks. can't wait. Do you think it would be better to go to 1/2 in hose or 3/8, I plan on using air tools in the future but not right away, I have never really used air tools so I don't know much about them. thanks again.
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post #178 of 297 Old 03-11-2010, 11:01 AM
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Coming from the compressor to the tanks go as big as you can. I went 1/4" and it's the biggest limiting factor on my system. I have plenty of volume for inflating tires, but when I try to use an air impact it just doesn't deliver enough air through 1/4". If you can afford it, go 1/2" from the compressor to the tanks. You having two tanks will be a big advantage. Use one tank for all your 1/4" stuff and put a 3/8" connection on the other.

Of course, any time you go with 1/4", it might as well be 1/4" from there on out because it will form a bottleneck for everything else downstream. So 1/2" to the tanks, 3/8" out of one tank and you should be golden. If I get my hands on the scuba tanks I want that's what I'm going to redo the system as.

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post #179 of 297 Old 03-11-2010, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mickey_D View Post
Coming from the compressor to the tanks go as big as you can. I went 1/4" and it's the biggest limiting factor on my system. I have plenty of volume for inflating tires, but when I try to use an air impact it just doesn't deliver enough air through 1/4". If you can afford it, go 1/2" from the compressor to the tanks. You having two tanks will be a big advantage. Use one tank for all your 1/4" stuff and put a 3/8" connection on the other.

Of course, any time you go with 1/4", it might as well be 1/4" from there on out because it will form a bottleneck for everything else downstream. So 1/2" to the tanks, 3/8" out of one tank and you should be golden. If I get my hands on the scuba tanks I want that's what I'm going to redo the system as.
Nice I didn't even think of doing that, the 1/2 hose shouldn't be to much more than the 3/8. Lowe's has 3/8 hose for .44/foot. thats only 15 bucks for 30 ft. I couldn't imagine that 1/2 would be much more. cant wait to get this done, just wish I had the time to do it today.
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post #180 of 297 Old 03-11-2010, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Since this thread still isn't dead I figure ill let ya know im just about done with a york oba on my new jeep, ill post up soon with the finished project. When i scrapped the jeep in this thread last year the sanden a/c compressor was still working great.
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