Ive really needed on board air for awhile now and i finally got around to doing it. I had three main options: An electric compressor, a belt driven compressor, or a C02/Nitrogen tank. I decided on a belt driven compressor for a few reasons. They put out way more CFM then an electric compressor, theyre quieter then an electric compressor, they have a 100% duty cycle, and if done right will probably be cheaper. I also seriously considered using a C02 tank, but one drawback to having a C02 tank is that it will obviously need to be refilled periodicaly, and with amount of air ill be using a C02 tank just wouldnt work best for me. As for what type of belt driven compressor i was going to run i had to decide between a York, or my stock A/C compressor. I dont use my A/C often and due to condensor issues it has never really worked properly. I figured this would be the easiest/cheapest route since the compressor was already installed, i just needed to do the plumbing. The stock Sanden compressor puts out about 8-9 CFM which is quite a bit, especially compared to the expensive electri compressors that only put out 1-2 CFM. The highest rated electric comp i could find is the Extreme Air compressor, which goes for about $380 and puts out 4 CFM at 0 psi. Anyway on to the install..
I started by removing all the A/C hoses and fittings. I then used some 3/4 to 3/8 pipe reducers on the input and output of the comp.
Then came the intake. The Sanden compressors are lubricated by the freon in the A/C system. With no freon you have to have an alternate way of lubricating the conpressor. The most common and efficent method is to use an inline air tool oiler, which is what i did.
Heres the intake, i used a valve cover breather fiter as an airfilter-
Oiler:
Now for the output. The output goes through a check valve, then through an air filter and seperator. The idea of this is to collect any condensation an oil that gets through the compressor. Not totally neccesery but its good to have. The line from there splits at a "T", one line goes to my front airline disconnect and the other goes to the rear of the jeep to the tank and manifold.
Under hood junk complete:
Next was to assemble the Manifold. I could have used the tank as a manifold since it has 6 ports on it but this manifold would keep thngs neater, more organized, and i wouldnt have to worry about braking a guage or somthing off the tank when putting tools and such in the back. I purchased the manifold for 12 dollars on www.northerntool.com
Here it is assembled.. saftey reliefe valve, pressure switch, and gauge.
I go the tank and pressure switch on ebay for an awsome deal. 50 bucks for both. The pressure switch is the Kilby switch, which turns on at 120psi and turns off at 150. Higher then neccesery but the price was right, and the only other small pressure switches i could find shutoff at 105. Id rather be high then low in this case. The tank is the Viair 2.5 gallon tank. I mounted the tank and manifold where the spare tire used to be which made for a clean look and didnt take up any useable space.
Tank and manifold mounted and lines run.
Now all i had to do was wire it up and i was good to go. I put a switch on the console which then runs to the pressure switch.
Switch:
All i do is flip the switch and the compressor kicks on until the system reaches 150psi, it turns off and wont kick on again ill it gets to 120. The system pressurizes very quick. From 0 to 150 psi takes just over a minute. I havent got an exact time but it filled my 33x12.50s from 9 to 32 psi in about a minute as well.
Front connect:
Rear connect:
I started by removing all the A/C hoses and fittings. I then used some 3/4 to 3/8 pipe reducers on the input and output of the comp.
Then came the intake. The Sanden compressors are lubricated by the freon in the A/C system. With no freon you have to have an alternate way of lubricating the conpressor. The most common and efficent method is to use an inline air tool oiler, which is what i did.
Heres the intake, i used a valve cover breather fiter as an airfilter-
Oiler:
Now for the output. The output goes through a check valve, then through an air filter and seperator. The idea of this is to collect any condensation an oil that gets through the compressor. Not totally neccesery but its good to have. The line from there splits at a "T", one line goes to my front airline disconnect and the other goes to the rear of the jeep to the tank and manifold.
Under hood junk complete:
Next was to assemble the Manifold. I could have used the tank as a manifold since it has 6 ports on it but this manifold would keep thngs neater, more organized, and i wouldnt have to worry about braking a guage or somthing off the tank when putting tools and such in the back. I purchased the manifold for 12 dollars on www.northerntool.com
Here it is assembled.. saftey reliefe valve, pressure switch, and gauge.
I go the tank and pressure switch on ebay for an awsome deal. 50 bucks for both. The pressure switch is the Kilby switch, which turns on at 120psi and turns off at 150. Higher then neccesery but the price was right, and the only other small pressure switches i could find shutoff at 105. Id rather be high then low in this case. The tank is the Viair 2.5 gallon tank. I mounted the tank and manifold where the spare tire used to be which made for a clean look and didnt take up any useable space.
Tank and manifold mounted and lines run.
Now all i had to do was wire it up and i was good to go. I put a switch on the console which then runs to the pressure switch.
Switch:
All i do is flip the switch and the compressor kicks on until the system reaches 150psi, it turns off and wont kick on again ill it gets to 120. The system pressurizes very quick. From 0 to 150 psi takes just over a minute. I havent got an exact time but it filled my 33x12.50s from 9 to 32 psi in about a minute as well.
Front connect:
Rear connect: