A/C compressor bearing replacement - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 11-12-2006, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
BigwillXJ
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A/C compressor bearing replacement

The bearing is shot on my A/c compressor and I need to replace it. Ive looked at getting a whole new compressor but i am 17 and hardly ever use the A/C so i would really like to just replace the bearing. I know this is a common problem and ive searched and have had no luck with any guidance. Does anyone have a good write-up on how to do this. I would appreciate any help anyone has to offer.

will


(Totaled)
97 xj sport
4.0L, 5 spd, RE 4.5", AA SYE/TW ds, 32" bfg mud-terrains, borla catback exhaust, 4.56's

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post #2 of 24 Old 11-12-2006, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
BigwillXJ
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btw the compressor is a Sanden 709

(Totaled)
97 xj sport
4.0L, 5 spd, RE 4.5", AA SYE/TW ds, 32" bfg mud-terrains, borla catback exhaust, 4.56's

NC State
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post #3 of 24 Old 11-12-2006, 07:18 PM
sailgclass
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x2. mine went out 10 miles before i got to the campsite at uwharrie. i was too far from home to risk wheeling it and having it seize on me. i was PISSED i missed the wheeling b/c of it.

1995 4.0 AW4 NP231 C8.25" "Miss Molly"
Rusty's 3", ProComp SS, JKS Adj Track Bar
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post #4 of 24 Old 11-12-2006, 10:26 PM
Bosco01Cherokee
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Does it smoke on you at all and emit a fowl odor? My compressor did this with the A/C off. The reason... the serpentine belt is connected to everything... meaning no bypass. I had to get a whole new compressor and actuator. It took a while for the smell from the compressor smoking to leave my nose.
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post #5 of 24 Old 11-12-2006, 11:19 PM
yellow81cj5
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just bypass the compressor with a smaller belt.

81 cj5-3inchs of mystery on 33+10.50's brand new BFG's MT-almost all original, great shape(for sale)
98 XJ LIMITED-RE 4.5"-RE H.D. Track Bar-JKS Disco's-RE Monotube Shocks-Front bumpstops, Adj. Rear bumpstops-33x12.50's Kumho Ventures on 15x8 Crager Soft 8's-C 4x4 front Bumper-IPF Lights-Surco Roof Rack-Trimmed Front/Rear
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post #6 of 24 Old 11-12-2006, 11:22 PM
yellow81cj5
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sorry just finished reading the last post. I ran into a problem at the shop with a the clutch pully of the compressor going bad. I bypassed it and everthing was fine. It was on a 97 zj though, of course -6.

81 cj5-3inchs of mystery on 33+10.50's brand new BFG's MT-almost all original, great shape(for sale)
98 XJ LIMITED-RE 4.5"-RE H.D. Track Bar-JKS Disco's-RE Monotube Shocks-Front bumpstops, Adj. Rear bumpstops-33x12.50's Kumho Ventures on 15x8 Crager Soft 8's-C 4x4 front Bumper-IPF Lights-Surco Roof Rack-Trimmed Front/Rear
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post #7 of 24 Old 11-12-2006, 11:23 PM
Bosco01Cherokee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow81cj5
just bypass the compressor with a smaller belt.
You can't.
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post #8 of 24 Old 11-13-2006, 08:31 AM
AZ Jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigwillXJ
btw the compressor is a Sanden 709
Which bearing are we talking about? The one on the clutch pulley, or one of the INTERNAL bearings in the compressor?

If it's the clutch pulley bearing, that can be replaced fairly easily, and can be done with the compressor in the vehicle. The internal bearings require the compressor to be removed from the vehicle to service them.

AZ-Jeff
I don't own an XJ any longer, but I still think they are the best of all the Jeep products ever made. My XJ was my favorite vehicle in my 50+ years of driving.
So...I stick around and give advice.
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post #9 of 24 Old 11-13-2006, 08:59 AM
Lvnloud
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I bought a compressor from the junk yard for $75, works great.

1992 XJ Sport / 5 Speed
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post #10 of 24 Old 11-13-2006, 11:34 AM
AZ Jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lvnloud
I bought a compressor from the junk yard for $75, works great.
And that requires you discharge, evacuate, and recharge the AC system. If the problem is JUST the pulley bearing, that part can be changed without going through any of the hassle of removing and replacing the refrigerant.

AZ-Jeff
I don't own an XJ any longer, but I still think they are the best of all the Jeep products ever made. My XJ was my favorite vehicle in my 50+ years of driving.
So...I stick around and give advice.
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post #11 of 24 Old 11-13-2006, 12:16 PM
sailgclass
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I'm almost 100% positive its my clutch bearing. The A/C works fine and when the compressor turns on, and that clutch bearing doenst have to work, everything is normal. I just have to get home and check the model and order the part at advance. It would be helpful for a writeup on the clutch bearing though. Anyone?

1995 4.0 AW4 NP231 C8.25" "Miss Molly"
Rusty's 3", ProComp SS, JKS Adj Track Bar
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post #12 of 24 Old 11-13-2006, 07:58 PM
sailgclass
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bump
10 char

1995 4.0 AW4 NP231 C8.25" "Miss Molly"
Rusty's 3", ProComp SS, JKS Adj Track Bar
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post #13 of 24 Old 11-13-2006, 09:24 PM
Bosco01Cherokee
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I'm guessing it doesn't smoke or smell...
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post #14 of 24 Old 11-14-2006, 05:09 PM
sailgclass
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yeah mine doesnt smoke or smell, well the interior smells, does that count?

1995 4.0 AW4 NP231 C8.25" "Miss Molly"
Rusty's 3", ProComp SS, JKS Adj Track Bar
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post #15 of 24 Old 11-15-2006, 09:00 AM
AZ Jeff
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Here is how to take the pulley and clutch apart to replace the bearing:

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to Group 7 - Cooling System for the procedures.
(3) Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness connector.
(4) Remove the four bolts that secure the compressor to the mounting bracket.
(5) Remove the compressor from the mounting bracket. Support the compressor in the engine compartment
while servicing the clutch.
(6) Insert the two pins of the spanner wrench (Special Tool C-4489) into the holes of the clutch
plate. Hold the clutch plate stationary and remove the hex nut (Fig. 20).
(7) Remove the clutch plate with a puller (Special Tool C-6461) (Fig. 21).
(8) Remove the compressor shaft key and the clutch shims.
(9) Remove the external front housing snap ring with snap ring pliers (Fig. 22).
(10) Install the lip of the rotor puller (Special Tool C-6141-1) into the snap ring groove exposed in the
previous step, and install the shaft protector (Special Tool C-6141-2) (Fig. 23).
(11) Install the puller through-bolts (Special Tool C-6461) through the puller flange and into the jaws
of the rotor puller and tighten (Fig. 24). Turn the puller center bolt clockwise until the rotor pulley is free.
(12) Remove the screw and retainer from the clutch coil lead wire harness on the compressor front housing (Fig. 25).
(13) Remove the snap ring from the compressor hub and remove the clutch field coil (Fig. 26). Slide the clutch field coil off of the compressor hub.
INSPECTION
Examine the friction surfaces of the clutch pulley and the front plate for wear. The pulley and front
plate should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring.
If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft and nose area of the compressor for oil. Remove the
oil, the shaft seal is leaking and the compressor must be replaced.
Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the bearing, if
required.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the clutch field coil and snap ring.
(2) Install the clutch coil lead wire harness retaining clip on the compressor front housing and tighten the retaining screw.
(3) Align the rotor assembly squarely on the front compressor housing hub.
(4) Install the pulley bearing assembly with the installer (Special Tool C-6871) (Fig. 27). Thread the installer on the shaft, then turn the nut until the pulley assembly is seated.
(5) Install the external front snap ring with snap ring pliers. The bevel side of the snap ring must be
facing outward. Press the snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove.
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the front housing of the compressor.
(6) Install the compressor shaft key and the original clutch shims on the compressor shaft.
(7) Install the clutch plate with the driver (Special Tool C-6463) (Fig. 28). Install the shaft hex nut and
tighten to 14.4 N•m (10.5 ft. lbs.).
(8) Check the clutch air gap with a feeler gauge (Fig. 29). If the air gap does not meet the specification,
add or subtract shims as required. The air gap specification is 0.41 to 0.79 millimeter (0.016 to 0.031
inch). If the air gap is not consistent around the circumference of the clutch, lightly pry up at the minimum
variations. Lightly tap down at the points of maximum variation.
NOTE: The air gap is determined by the spacer shims. When installing an original, or a new clutch assembly, try the original shims first. When installing a new clutch onto a compressor that previously did not have a clutch, use 1.0, 0.50, and 0.13 millimeter (0.040, 0.020, and 0.005 inch) shims from the clutch hardware package that is provided with the
new clutch.
(9) Reverse the remaining removal procedures to complete the installation.

AZ-Jeff
I don't own an XJ any longer, but I still think they are the best of all the Jeep products ever made. My XJ was my favorite vehicle in my 50+ years of driving.
So...I stick around and give advice.
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