Quantcast bye bye piston ring - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles

Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Cherokee & Comanche Forums > Cherokee Technical Forum > bye bye piston ring

Great deals on Mickey Thompson Tires @ Jeephut.comRCV Heavy Duty Axle Shafts Now Shipping at Baseline4x4.comPoison Spyder Brawler Rockers!

Reply
Old 03-23-2005, 05:31 PM   #1
n20jeep
Web Wheeler
1993 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: J-Ville,FL
Posts: 2,361
bye bye piston ring

ok i may have uped the shot of nitrous a lil to much....(found pieces of ring in oil pan and other random pieces of iron )....so i was wondering....has anyone here pulled there head off and how hard was it to do?....any hints on what parts i should remove and what order i should do them in?....

n20jeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 05:34 PM   #2
silverxj2001
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: boulder, CO / the OC
Posts: 1,263
try posting this on NAXJA in the "street and performance & other tech" forum.. .not many people i know here run nitrous, a bunch of guys there sure do though

sorry to bear about your problem
__________________
2001 2-door XJ prerunner
6.5" RE
33x10.5" BFG A/T KO
15x8" rockcrawlers w/3.75" bs
hannemann 6" bulge flat top fiberglass fenders
bilstein 11" travel 5150's
RE XD trackbar / frame mount
RE adj. LCA/UCA's
beard triple thick limit straps
rusty's steering box brace
truckfarm pre-runner bumper
intake / exhaust
procomp lighting
system... yada yada yada

[URL=http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/437678/1]PICS OF MY XJ[/URL]
silverxj2001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 05:37 PM   #3
n20jeep
Web Wheeler
1993 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: J-Ville,FL
Posts: 2,361
its not the nitrous that is my question.....its just the removle of the cylinder head i would like some advise on.....like say you were going to replace a head gasket or something along those lines....i just need to know so i can replace a piston and some rings
n20jeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 06:55 PM   #4
XJ4oh
Registered User
1997 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Hot & sunny south..
Posts: 4,459
How will you replace rings just from taking the head off? Piston will only reach top dead center..
__________________
'97 XJ... 4.0 4x4 AW4.
2" budget boost w/t-case drop.
30x9.5 Kumho M/T's on 15x7 Cragar Soft 8's.
Intake, Ported TB, TB spacer, Super 40 Flowmaster.
Baja Aux. Lighting.
Green Jeep Club #185, Nowhere to Wheel Jeep Club member #1
XJ4oh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 07:03 PM   #5
twisted_ed
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Courtenay, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,357
best thing u can do is make a call to the dealer and get the number to order a service manual, it will tell you how to rebuild that motor which is essentially what you need to do
__________________
1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo
4.0L
Automatic Tranny
NP242 Transfer case
Dana 30 front, 35 custom rear differentials

Mods:

RE 4.5" Lift
32x11.50 BFGoodRich M/T KM's
American Eagle 058 Polished Aluminum Wheels, 3.63" BS.
Grand Cherokee Rear Disc Brake setup
Custom Downpipe W/ Cat Removed.
Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler.
Surco Roof Rack

My Jeep
twisted_ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 07:10 PM   #6
xjgrn
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Winchester N.H.
Posts: 146
Here's some more good news, you have to take out the crankshaft. That means from the bottom. thats besides the intake and exhaust, drainning the coolant Then with any luluck, you havent gouged the hell out of the cyl. wall. It might be cheaper to find another engine, than to do anything with that one.Lots of luck
__________________
'96 Xj 4.5 lift gdyr muds,Tomkin rockrails, Custom4x4fabrication rear bumper and tow hook mounts 4.10 gears 8.8 rear w/disks and a bunch of other goodies
xjgrn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 07:53 PM   #7
badron
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 456
I would say you got a 500lb door stop. Rings or parts there of, just do not fall out. You got at least one blown piston. If she got more than 20k miles on her she needs to be bord out and a new piston fitted. (IMO)
Better off just getting a new motor.

R Robinson

P.S. Are you sure you over shot or did you lean out. Lean out is a common problem with new systems. I weak pump or a clogged filter will do fine putting around. But under high demand they may wimp out and let her go lean. Keep a close eye on your plugs. Plugs will tell you more about what going on inside the engine then a truck load of computers. A fuel presser gauge will let you know if the pump is keeping up to.

Last edited by badron; 03-23-2005 at 08:49 PM..
badron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 09:06 PM   #8
n20jeep
Web Wheeler
1993 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: J-Ville,FL
Posts: 2,361
ok i know i ran lean .....and i know ive got a piston out ....but u guys are missing the main question....

...also u can pull a piston without pulling out the crank.....just pull off the head, the oil pan....then the rod caps....then push out the piston throught the top of the block.....next use a handheld hone(not sure of the tech name).....insert new piston with rings and push back down into the motor....its called a "inframe overhaul".....no need to pull motor or drop the crank
n20jeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 09:10 PM   #9
cmotsvt
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 2,310
Yeah you can do it without taking the crankshaft, but you cant do it RIGHT!
cmotsvt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 09:48 PM   #10
twisted_ed
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Courtenay, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,357
i talked to my mechanic father, father in law and uncle in law, so out of 3 mechaincs they all said:

yes you can take it out the bottom without much dissassembly but getting a new piston in will be a problem

and you wont be able to tell if the cylinder walls are messed up

any if you do replace and anything in there is messed up such as valves and what not ull never know.

either full rebuild, replace or in my opinion if you have to bore and hone buggered up walls, STROKE it.

either way if you do it the easy and cheap way it will prob cost you mroe in the end cause of an additional full rebuild.

thats my research for the day.
__________________
1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo
4.0L
Automatic Tranny
NP242 Transfer case
Dana 30 front, 35 custom rear differentials

Mods:

RE 4.5" Lift
32x11.50 BFGoodRich M/T KM's
American Eagle 058 Polished Aluminum Wheels, 3.63" BS.
Grand Cherokee Rear Disc Brake setup
Custom Downpipe W/ Cat Removed.
Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler.
Surco Roof Rack

My Jeep
twisted_ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 09:59 PM   #11
n20jeep
Web Wheeler
1993 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: J-Ville,FL
Posts: 2,361
twisted....i was actually planning on stroking it to a 4.7 soon....but the main point of this thread was not what i was going to do after i get the head off it was what was the best way to remove the head to atleast get a better look at the damage


....p.s. the valves would not be a problem....i have done a pretty good amount of head work in the past on other vehicles....so repairing broke valves and such would not be a big issue....would also be a good time to do a port an polish along with a full valve job ....and possibly upgrade to some roller rockers
n20jeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:04 PM   #12
twisted_ed
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Courtenay, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,357
you're absoulutly right about the valves, i was under the impression you might replace a pisotn from the bottom in which case you wouldnt see or be able to replace a valve, i would think taking the head off would be the same with most motor, pull it, take off the manifold, valve cover and remove the head bolts. but then i havent taken the 4.0 apart yet. but i would think it would be fairly simple.. good luck
__________________
1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo
4.0L
Automatic Tranny
NP242 Transfer case
Dana 30 front, 35 custom rear differentials

Mods:

RE 4.5" Lift
32x11.50 BFGoodRich M/T KM's
American Eagle 058 Polished Aluminum Wheels, 3.63" BS.
Grand Cherokee Rear Disc Brake setup
Custom Downpipe W/ Cat Removed.
Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler.
Surco Roof Rack

My Jeep
twisted_ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2005, 06:04 AM   #13
artsound
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Miami
Posts: 576
Quote:
Originally Posted by n20jeep
ok i know i ran lean .....and i know ive got a piston out ....but u guys are missing the main question....

...also u can pull a piston without pulling out the crank.....just pull off the head, the oil pan....then the rod caps....then push out the piston throught the top of the block.....next use a handheld hone(not sure of the tech name).....insert new piston with rings and push back down into the motor....its called a "inframe overhaul".....no need to pull motor or drop the crank

Ok, you need to remove your serpentine belt-disconnect the fuel rails and wireing harness to the injectors-PS pump and bracket-then your intake and exhaust manifold--then the top bolts on your ac bracket(don't remove the bracket or ac just the bolts that aattach to the head) then the valve cover-rocker arms and bridges -pushrods
then remove the head(14 bolts and studds IIRC)-you will need to replace tyhe head gasket and get a manual and a torque wrench for proper reinstall bolt order and torque----2hours my guess-good luck
__________________
ARTSOUND
1995 XJ ,2x4 / Rusty's intake w kn filter/ Home brew cold air box/99 intake/ 62mm bored out TB/ MSD wires/MSD 6a/MSD blaster coil/Clifford headers/2.5" mandrel bent downpipe/magnaflow hi-flow cat/2.5" mandrel bent catback w/dynomax super turbo muffler/ 3 core xtreme radiator/hi-flow water pump
HD rear springs and daystar budget boost
artsound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2005, 10:59 AM   #14
n20jeep
Web Wheeler
1993 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: J-Ville,FL
Posts: 2,361
Quote:
Originally Posted by artsound
Ok, you need to remove your serpentine belt-disconnect the fuel rails and wireing harness to the injectors-PS pump and bracket-then your intake and exhaust manifold--then the top bolts on your ac bracket(don't remove the bracket or ac just the bolts that aattach to the head) then the valve cover-rocker arms and bridges -pushrods
then remove the head(14 bolts and studds IIRC)-you will need to replace tyhe head gasket and get a manual and a torque wrench for proper reinstall bolt order and torque----2hours my guess-good luck
thanks.... i just needed a basic order of events....
n20jeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2005, 07:36 PM   #15
Dvs_Lance
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: B'ham Alabama
Posts: 391
Didn't I just say not to long ago on another post that this was a bad idea???? Your jeep engine is just as easy to remove the cylinder head as a four banger. Only half the work of typical chevy or ford. Very easy, I would remove the intake first, exhaust second, then the valve cover. Helps keep all that nasty -=-=-=-= out of your valve train. If you are going to have the head rebuilt or replaced, you might want to remove the valve cover first, prob give just a tad more room. Make sure you buy a decent head kit for reinstallation, as the bolts used on the head of a 4.0 are what are known as "Torque to Yield". This means that they strech to a certain point to hold the head on well. They just don't need to be reused unless you have to. If I was going to pull mine, I would go ahead and order a kit from ARP, or another reputable after market performance company. That way you are going to get good bolts and believe me, if you ever have to pull it again, you dont want to break one! I would pick up a hayes manual or chilton manual for this if you have never done it. Its probably the one procedure that is explained as well as it should be. Good luck.

edit- here is a link that I use if I have any questions like yours. Its not exactly a repair manual, but it covers a lot.http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/index.asp?sid=2513715&uid=s9015408.main.autorefctr

edit - You will have to remove fuel lines and all the little stuff before you do anything else, i should have stated that above. I like using a roll of that blue masking tape to lable everything that I remove. It helps speed the process of putting it all back together


sorry about that link not staying in working order, Its something I have access to through the school, it seems after I post it, it only works for a little while.
__________________
1988 red 4 door XJ 4.0, AW4 Command-Trac
3" Skyjacker Softride with AAL and Nitro Shocks
30x9.5 ProComp All-Terrains
Hella H-3 100watt bulbs in factory fogs(upgraded wire)
50x4 Pioneer Head Unit and
Pioneer 5.25" rear and Infinity Kappa 4" front
10" Infinity BassLink; Cobra CB
4' Firestik II (USA limited)
Dana 30 front, Dana 35 rear, NP231
[SIZE=1]next mods are lockright front, SYE conversion, and BB![/SIZE]

Last edited by Dvs_Lance; 03-25-2005 at 07:06 PM..
Dvs_Lance is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads




Glock Forum



Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.

Copyright © Group Builder, Inc - All Rights Reserved