Build up Begins!! - Page 7

**bmyohn** · 11-07-2007, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arcticcat843

I COULD STILL WIN!!!

Im going to do ALOT of the same stuff as you but a little different. Im going to build a D44 for the front. Im going with aussie lockers. Im going to be at 7.5 inchs of lift and 37X14.50s. Im probaly going to go with the JCR one ton steering, and Deff tnt long arms. I just bought some 5.5 inch lift Re springs so im going to get some adj coil spacers. I just ordered a locker for my 88, some UBE (mainly becuease you recomended them) and i think im going to have JCR make me a truss for it.

sounds like a good plan, i should have built a D44 from the start. but didnt want to mess with all the fabrications stuff (not a good excuse, i know)

keep me posted on what u do, i wanna make sure i win...lol

**bmyohn** · 11-10-2007, 09:59 AM

i just got the axle back from the mechanic where it got the truss welded on

here it is after i painted it gloss black

**mecompco** · 11-10-2007, 10:37 AM

I must have missed it--whose D30 truss is that? Even with the Chromos, I'm still afraid my D30 might be a weak link. You're not trussing the 8.8 are you?

**bmyohn** · 11-10-2007, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mecompco

I must have missed it--whose D30 truss is that? Even with the Chromos, I'm still afraid my D30 might be a weak link. You're not trussing the 8.8 are you?

that is the TnT Customs D30 truss with raised UCA and trac bar mounts, i believe it was somewhere in the 350 range, the mechanic only charged me 65 bucks to weld that thing on, TnT Customs stressed to go only 1" at a time when welding it up, so even though they had to go slow, it took them only an hour to weld it up

no im not going to truss the 8.8, im just gonna get it welded around the pumpkin, i think that the 8.8 will be strong enough for the 35s

**mecompco** · 11-10-2007, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmyohn

that is the TnT Customs D30 truss with raised UCA and trac bar mounts, i believe it was somewhere in the 350 range, the mechanic only charged me 65 bucks to weld that thing on, TnT Customs stressed to go only 1" at a time when welding it up, so even though they had to go slow, it took them only an hour to weld it up

no im not going to truss the 8.8, im just gonna get it welded around the pumpkin, i think that the 8.8 will be strong enough for the 35s

Thanks! I'll have to put one on the "to do" list. I've already got their belly pan and just picked up one of their winch bumpers. We did weld the tubes on the 8.8--those nickle rods are not cheap, and it took about twice as many as we estimated. It would be too bad to warp the D30 tubes--I guess you could alternate ends when welding. I suppose the axle has to come off? I'd hate to mess up my geometry now that the front end is wobble/vibe free.

**bmyohn** · 11-10-2007, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mecompco

Thanks! I'll have to put one on the "to do" list. I've already got their belly pan and just picked up one of their winch bumpers. We did weld the tubes on the 8.8--those nickle rods are not cheap, and it took about twice as many as we estimated. It would be too bad to warp the D30 tubes--I guess you could alternate ends when welding. I suppose the axle has to come off? I'd hate to mess up my geometry now that the front end is wobble/vibe free.

yeah you would have to take the axle out, because you have to cut off the UCA Mounts as well as the trac bar mount

but it would be worth to know that you have a much stronger housing then before

the TnT guys just kept telling me to take my time otherwise it would end up like a taco and warp all over

brifro123 · 11-10-2007, 04:26 PM

Looking Good!

**mecompco** · 11-10-2007, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmyohn

yeah you would have to take the axle out, because you have to cut off the UCA Mounts as well as the trac bar mount

but it would be worth to know that you have a much stronger housing then before

the TnT guys just kept telling me to take my time otherwise it would end up like a taco and warp all over

Thanks for the insight. A truss probably isn't really necessary for running 33s, but I'm a firm believer in overkill. I've had some web wheelers say I've overbuilt, but I've never once on the trail regretted it.

**bmyohn** · 11-10-2007, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mecompco

Thanks for the insight. A truss probably isn't really necessary for running 33s, but I'm a firm believer in overkill. I've had some web wheelers say I've overbuilt, but I've never once on the trail regretted it.

well said, i like the feeling when u made it through a tough section of trail and didnt break anything, its a sign of a well built rig

**bmyohn** · 11-10-2007, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brifro123

Looking Good!

thanks brian

**bmyohn** · 11-11-2007, 07:39 AM

ive been trying to setup my OTK steering from TnT Customs, but im not 100% sure which TRE goes where, so i was hopings some of you could shed some light on this for me

i set it up the best way i could think of

connection point of two steering links (does the tre with the hole go to the passenger side knuckle??)

this is the smallest of all the TREs, i was assuming it went to the TRE with the hole in it, if so, does it go in front of the hole or go in through the rear??

this is one of the larger TREs, i was assuming it went to the driver side knuckle

and this one would go to the pitman arm?

do i have everything right?

thanks
Brendan

**bmyohn** · 11-11-2007, 11:04 AM

any insight on this guys and gals??

LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW · 11-11-2007, 01:14 PM

TRE with the hole goes on the pass side knuckle.

TRE goes face out on the pass side where it connects to the other TRE. (it points in)

The 2 TRE's that interchange I do not know. Logic would have it that 1 is longer than the other, so if the one does not fit the distance that goes from knuckle to knuckle on the tierod switch it with the other one (the pitman arm one). Your 1st pic looks setup correctly for the most part, but it looks like you need to swap both the right side TRE's as the length of the draglink does not look long enough.

**bmyohn** · 11-11-2007, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

TRE with the hole goes on the pass side knuckle.

TRE goes face out on the pass side where it connects to the other TRE. (it points in)

The 2 TRE's that interchange I do not know. Logic would have it that 1 is longer than the other, so if the one does not fit the distance that goes from knuckle to knuckle on the tierod switch it with the other one (the pitman arm one). Your 1st pic looks setup correctly for the most part, but it looks like you need to swap both the right side TRE's as the length of the draglink does not look long enough.

thanks Adam, i believe that the tie rod is a lot longer then it needs to be, i was just trying to get the TREs on in the correct places (it took a while because some of the TREs are reverse threaded)

i dont think that the drag link TREs switch, the one that goes in the hole is considerably smaller then the one that i have going to the pitman arm, so that my reasoning for having those TREs in those places

**bmyohn** · 11-15-2007, 02:36 PM

here are some pics of Rock Krawler 6.5" Lift Coils bolted up to the front axle which will be getting swaped in on saturday/sunday

thanks again Adam (Lead_Not-Follow) for the coils