I figured the silver spacer- things propably are only used on 9" rear axles. No need to use 'em on the 8.8. But I suppose you also figured it out yourself since you got the backing plates/ dust shields botled up
Did you use the silver- coloured hex bolts, or the T- shaped black ones? Again, the T- shaped seem to be better suited for the 9" axle, and the silver or gold coloured for the 8.8
On my kit, there were two different brake calipers - the other had a smaller center hole than the other one, so you can't really go wrong with the pads. If both calipers are similar, use the pads that fit in. It needs to be a snug fit, but also should slide in by hand or just a bit of help with a pliers.
Installing brake pads is pretty straightforward, even if you never have done it before. If the pistons are not pushed all the way in, push them in so it's easier to slide in the caliper/ pad assembly over the rotors.
The long thin black bolts (four of them, two per side) are used to mount the caliper on the mounts. Tighten snugly, but not very tight. Many recommend using thread locker on them (ie. blue loctite), but I actually prefer high-temp anti-seize grease. Also, use copper- paste (brake grease) on the areas where the pads slide on/ touch the caliper bracket.
Uumh.. what else.. yeap, that should be pretty much all to it. Once you figure out everything, you do that in less than 5 minutes per side
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***