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post #16 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 04:01 PM
rocketman121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmyohn
do u have a link to that stuff??

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/index.php


-87 XJ 4.0 5spd, 2"BB, 31" BFG ATs on 15x8 Eagle 058s, trimmed and doorless
-01 TJ 4cyl auto FT 3" lift 33" Goodyear AT/S & BFG muds herculined tub
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post #17 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 04:03 PM
Timo_90xj
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IMHO, skip the C-clip eliminator for now - F8.8 shafts are stronger than D44 shafts and don't break too easily under an XJ. You understand what I mean when you pull the shafts the first time


But, I recommend getting a stronger diff cover. It is even thinner than a D30 cover, and because of it's size compared to ie. D30 cover it won't take much beating before it's bent/ cracked. Good thing is, the lower lip isn't easily caught on rocks/ stones etc. because it is quite a bit higher than the edge of the pumpkin.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #18 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
bmyohn
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i think im gonna skip it for now, and im gonna get the OX Diff cover when i get the ox locker


should i remove all the brake lines (rubber and hard)??

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #19 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
bmyohn
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okay, so far i have taken off the sway bar and the hard brake lines

how do i get the backing plate off (its bent from when they took it off)??

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #20 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 04:32 PM
Timo_90xj
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..uuh.. my bad. Forgot you're getting the OX - that locker package must have the sexiest diff-cover there is

Remove all the brake lines, and get the breather tube/ hard line split- bit from a D35. It is a direct fit on the 8.8 and the breather hose attachment is very close to where it is on the D35s -> you can use any brake soft lines designed for XJs Like someone else stated, you better bend new hard lines anyway 'cause it's a JY axle. Do a good job the first time, it's much better that way.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #21 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
bmyohn
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the breather/ hard line split is at the top of the pumpkin right??

i took that off, so ur saying that i can just use that plate thats on my D35 on the 8.8"

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #22 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 06:20 PM
Haleyes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmyohn
the breather/ hard line split is at the top of the pumpkin right??

i took that off, so ur saying that i can just use that plate thats on my D35 on the 8.8"
Breather is on the drivers side tube.
Hard line junction block is on top of the pumpkin.



You can reuse all of the brake lines that are attached to the axle. You will need a longer rubber hose to go from the junction block to the OEM Jeep line on the framerail.

Hale

96' XJ, 33's and 4.88's



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post #23 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
bmyohn
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im gonna have to get new tubing i believe, the guy who took it off just cut through most of them


i just got a grinder so im gonna go out and cut off some of the brackets tonight and see how it goes

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #24 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 07:05 PM
Twsty
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I think you can go with 5.13s because you have an LP D30....the HP D30 stops at 4.88.

1988 MJ 4.0/D60/14b/5.38/42s/PSC hydro
1995 XJ 4.0/AW4/231/JCR sliders/235s on KJ 16" wheels
1996 F350 PSD/ZF5, 375hp/692ftlbs
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post #25 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
bmyohn
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i was thinking of switching to a HP D30 because i want to end up about at 6" and i think i will get some vibes from the front end if i dont switch to a HP D30

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #26 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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here are some pics of the axle i picked up today for $106 (the first place i went to wanted the same axle (little better shape) for $850..lol)

my axle



pumpkin




bent backing plate


my attempt at grinding off the bracket for the sway bar






any tips on grinding off these brackets??

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #27 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 08:29 PM
Haleyes
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I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Worked like butta. Be careful not to get into the tube. If you do, (and you will) just fill it in with a bead from the welder.

Hale

96' XJ, 33's and 4.88's



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post #28 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
bmyohn
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okay, so if i do cut through the tube, its not too big of a deal, i can fill it with a bead from the welder

ill try that tomorrow, i have whatever wheels the grinder came with, im not sure if they are cut-off wheels or not, ill have to check on that

do i just cut down the weld or do i cut the bracket somehow??

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #29 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
bmyohn
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i just checked, the angle grinder came with grinding wheels, not cutting wheels, so tomorrow i have to run out and get those and hopefully they will come out a little easier


what should i do about the backing plates that are bent??

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #30 of 718 Old 07-20-2007, 11:12 PM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haleyes
Breather is on the drivers side tube.
Hard line junction block is on top of the pumpkin.

You can reuse all of the brake lines that are attached to the axle. You will need a longer rubber hose to go from the junction block to the OEM Jeep line on the framerail.

Hale

Yes and no. Why using longer soft line and a weird location for the hard line split-block, if you can use stock Jeep location with stock Jeep parts?

JY axle.. there's a good chance especially the softlines are not in good condition. Hardlines (copper braketube) doesn't cost a fortune; if you're spending money on locker, gears etc., adding another 10-15$ for the hardlines isn't gonna get you bankcrupt.

Like I wrote, get a breather hose/split block mounting screw from a D35, it's a direct fit. Get a longer soft line (ie. YJ) to go with your future lift. Get copper tube and cut/bend new hardlines and flare them. A shop can do the flares if you don't have equipment. Shouldn't cost much at all.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Haleyes
I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Worked like butta. Be careful not to get into the tube. If you do, (and you will) just fill it in with a bead from the welder.

Hale
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmyohn
okay, so if i do cut through the tube, its not too big of a deal, i can fill it with a bead from the welder

ill try that tomorrow, i have whatever wheels the grinder came with, im not sure if they are cut-off wheels or not, ill have to check on that

do i just cut down the weld or do i cut the bracket somehow??
You won't cut into the tubes if you cut the brackets carefully. 4˝" grinder with a cut-off wheel is a perfect size. 40-grit grinding disc comes in handy too.

Do it this way:
1. Start by cutting the top or middle sections (however you wanna call 'em) off from the brackets.
2. After that, it is much easier to cut the sides of the brakets because you can see on both sides where you're cutting. And you have much less to cut too. So it's more accurate.
3. Don't try cutting the brackets off to the tube with the cut-off disc. Leave some metal on the tubes (1/16th-1/8th inch).
4. Take a 40-grit grinding/sanding wheel and grind the rest of the metal off the tubes.
5. End result should be that you have smooth-as-baby-butt axle tubes shining on bare metal, without any nicks or cuts on the tubes.

It does take a bit longer this way, but you won't need to worry about cuts on the tubes this way. And as weird as it sounds, I promise you won't go through as many cutting discs

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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