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JEEP Gear Change Packages From ROCKRIDGE 4WD. We Are DIFFROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail SPARTAN LOCKERS are on sale BIG TIME at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!

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Unread 07-20-2007, 01:24 PM   #1
bmyohn
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Build up Begins!!

I turned this thread into my 2001 XJs build thread. Throughout the thread is my Ford 8.8" build, HP D30 build, TnT LA, 6.5", 35s, various interior mods (CB, tailights, etc), AJs custom bumper, some wheelin pics

I hope you enjoy...PM or post up any questions if you have em, id be glad to answer them

Enjoy the read and plenty of pics

-Brendan
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i just pulled a Ford 8.8" rear end from the junkyard

it came out of a 97 explorer so it has disc brakes (or had them)

the codes from the pumpkin are S613C R 3L73 88 7J22

what gears does it have??


my plans for it are:

4.88 gears
OX Locker
High Clearance Shock mounts
MORE Bracket kit
New Discs
Calipers
and backing plates

any other suggestions??


pics to come**

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6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

Last edited by bmyohn; 03-10-2009 at 06:57 PM..
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Unread 07-20-2007, 01:28 PM   #2
1990JEEPXJ
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4.88 gears? are you going to be running 35's or something. with 31's id go with 4.10 which it might already have so youd only have to regear the front. but im going to make a guess and say that 3L73 means it has 3.73 gears with a limited slip. not sure though
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Unread 07-20-2007, 01:31 PM   #3
bmyohn
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im gonna end up running 35s so i wont put this in until i have more lift and the tires
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6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer
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Unread 07-20-2007, 01:37 PM   #4
dopod
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The "3L73" leads me to believe it has 3.73 gears in it...but that's just a guess.
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Unread 07-20-2007, 01:41 PM   #5
bmyohn
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thats kinda what i was thinkin

what is the electrical thing in the top the pumpkin that the D35 doesnt have?
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6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer
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Unread 07-20-2007, 01:59 PM   #6
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my guess would be ABS, or some sort of sensor.
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:10 PM   #7
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there is no abs in it, my only other explanation could be for something to signal that the limited slip engaged or something


how should i start this project, i think im gonna start by taking off the shock mount on the pumpkin and then by removing the backing plates??

does that sound like a good start?
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6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:19 PM   #8
Timo_90xj
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If you mean the plug on top of the pumpkin, it is definitely the connector for the ABS tone ring. I have one like that, my axle came out of a 1993 Explorer and it has the abs ring on the carrier.

I've never heard of a thing that measures LSD "active" (and it is in a way active all the time when cornering). I don't even see a reason for having such a thing on a vehicle that has no electronic traction control. ..and if the vehicle has TC, it must also have ABS brakes.
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:23 PM   #9
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3L73 is 3.73 gearing with the factory limited slip. Get a new diff cover. The factory covers on these things are weak. Plus, that lip that sticks out at the bottom is just begging to get caught on something.
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:31 PM   #10
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..oh, about what you should do and when.. I started by removing the weird rubber thingy from the side and cutting/ grinding all the mounts off the axle. I then proceeded to carry it inside, pop the cover (draining oil) and removing all internal parts.

I'd recommend doing that outside, at least on mine the carrier was VERY stubborn to come out. Pinion was very easy to get off, for some reason the pinion/flange nut wasn't very tight at all (like they usually are). Flange also separated easily from the pinion, a slight tap on the shaft was enough.

If you're going to do the gear setup yourself like I will, prepare to use at least a weekend for it. I'm midway through it, but there are certain things that are a PITA doing at home without an arbor press. I already knew to have a shop press the carrier bearings, but I didn't know installing bearing cups on the housing bores could be such a pain!


Btw., my setup will be somewhat similar to yours - Yukon 4.88 gears, Detroit locker, JKS raised shock mounts, RE anti-wrap 2.5" x 6" spring pads and flange to u-joint adapter. I didn't get the MORE install kit although I initally though I'd take it. Too expensive to ship all that hardware to the other side of the ocean, so I'll get my U-bolts from a local source, new spring plates cost me 5 (~7$) from a local steel shop. They were two leftover plates from a projkect, and exactly the right size. I just need to drill holes on 'em
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:35 PM   #11
bmyohn
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great, im gonna start with the brackets and go from there!

should all the rubber brake lines come off (rubber and hard)??
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6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:39 PM   #12
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the plug is the the ABS...just unplug it, but leave the rest on the pumpkin

when i built my ford 8.8 i pulled off all the steering hoses, and made all my own. did the hard lines and hydraulic lines, isn't too hard at all to do that, and its safer.

ill be putting 5:13s in my ford 8.8 for my 35s
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:41 PM   #13
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id get a c-clip eliminator kit for it, as well as the other stuff you showed, also check out ruffstuff for a diff cover and other parts useful in your swap.
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:46 PM   #14
bmyohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwishihad1
the plug is the the ABS...just unplug it, but leave the rest on the pumpkin

when i built my ford 8.8 i pulled off all the steering hoses, and made all my own. did the hard lines and hydraulic lines, isn't too hard at all to do that, and its safer.

ill be putting 5:13s in my ford 8.8 for my 35s

are the steering hoses the black grooved rubber hoses


ps...i cant do 5.13s in mine because of the D30 up front!!
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2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer
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Unread 07-20-2007, 02:47 PM   #15
bmyohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyHigHXJ
id get a c-clip eliminator kit for it, as well as the other stuff you showed, also check out ruffstuff for a diff cover and other parts useful in your swap.

do u have a link to that stuff??
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2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer
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