Budget lift questions to fix my saggy bottom. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-19-2017, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Budget lift questions to fix my saggy bottom.

I have a 2001 sport with a saggy bottom. I found some "near" excelent springs for the from from a 97 t-bird V6 at the pick-a-part. I want to do the bastard pack for the back. For the back. I plan on shimming the rear springs to get a better angle toward the trans. I hear this is all that really needs to be done and I most likely won't get vibration's. I have extended brakes lines for replacement.

Now, I'm a little foggy on details for the front... I have the springs, top mount and replacement brake lines. I have read on forums that I can get longer LCA by swapping out one's from a WJ. Is this needed? People say it is 2in longer and will give a lift??? I don't want extra lift if that is the case, or are they needed because of the lift?

I plan on swapping the tie rod assembly from a ZJ, I heard there is no difference in the drag link. Is this true?

Because of lift, Am I definitely going to need to change my sway bar to an adjustment to able one? I hear some people saying no.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 8 Old 09-19-2017, 04:04 PM
bluejunior
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First a clarification: what lift height are you going for? That has a big impact on some of your questions.

That aside, here's what I can say from what you've posted:

" I plan on shimming the rear springs to get a better angle toward the trans."
....KIND OF. Significant shimming is usually used alongside an SYE, where you want the pinion of the rear axle a degree or two below pointed straight at the output from the t-case. When you're talking about the stock driveshaft, what you want is to have the output of the trans/tcase and the input of the axle parallel. That is more often accomplished after a lift by dropping the t-case than shimming the axle, because shimming to get it to parallel can push the u-joints beyond the advisable operating angle for highway speed use. Some use a little drop and a little shim, or just shims IF it's a very minor adjustment. Also notable that the TC drop itself is cheaper, but really needs your motor mounts to be in good shape for the sake of your radiator.


T-bird springs: I've never heard of using T-bird leaves as a bastard pack, though I suppose any 2.5" wide leaf will work. S10's are the standard donor for 3-3.5" of lift, so that may give you a comparison of spring rate, free arch height, etc... to guess the results of teh T-bird spring. Now....I've seen people use the front coils off of old t-birds for some lift. They're stiff as hell for a light XJ but they work.

"I have the springs, top mount and replacement brake lines." What springs? By "top mount" do you mean the coil isolator? What brake lines? Again, a lot of this is target height dependent.

WJ control arms:
Control arms don't lift. They position the axle front to rear and the relative length of upper and lower arms sets the pinion and caster angles. WJ arms are about right for 3-4" of lift on an XJ and have a bend that can help clear larger tires without having to switch to rims with less backspacing or use spacers, but they do require some tweaking to fit. The exact length of control arm you want depends on your lift height, and there's only so much you can do with fixed length lowers. This, again, depends on your target lift height.

Sway bar:
Pretty much, yeah. As you lift witht he stock sway bar your front axle pulls to the driver's side. That causes all kinds of problems. The other option is to relocate the axle side mount to account for the change, which is certainly workable but not ideal.

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post #3 of 8 Old 09-19-2017, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the info! I'm sorry I wasn't clear enough.
I was going for a 3ish lift
The t-bird springs are the coil and yes, the top mount for them. I had heard the V6 springs where pretty soft. Are there better coils to snatch up?

I still need to pick up leafs. I was thinking on getting the S10 leafs.

I have new 94 YJ brake lines that I grabbed for another project that I never used. I heard they were long enough for the lift.

So I will plan on getting longer LCA's, trans drop and shims, S10 springs, and the adjustable Trac bar. Also going to upgrade my tie rods.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-19-2017, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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I have another question. I have 31's I plan on putting on. With a 3" lift an 31"in tires, I'm assuming I need a different bump stop so my tires won't scrape the wheel wells. Is that true? If so, is there a junk yard one that would fit what I need?
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-19-2017, 07:16 PM
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OOOOH I'm sorry I badly misread something. That makes much more sense.

Okay so T-bird coils should be okay, a number of people have used them. They're made for a heavier vehicle but in the worst case a set of new lift coils really isn't all that expensive. I think RE's run about $90 last time I looked so you can always swap to something like that later.

For the bastard packs, yeah S10 is a good one.

YJ brake lines are a good fit, front AND rear. The stock rear line is the one that really stretched and worried me at 3" when I did mine so a rear YJ or late 90's dakota line would be a good choice. The YJ unit is ~4" longer and the Dakota one is about 6" longer if you think you might lift more down the road.

For shocks (which we haven't talked about) the best option around on a tight budget is probably JK take off shocks. If you swap your XJ bar pins over into the JK shocks, the bolt up just about perfectly for an XJ with 3" of lift. The red ones are from the rubicon versions. They're a variable valved monotube shock and make for a firmer ride. The black body JK units are from all the other models, and are traditional dual-walled shocks without variable valving. They're a little softer and more like stock XJ units. JK takeoff shocks with low miles tend to run 50-80 for the set of four on craigslist and eBay and such.

If you're dropping the TC (roughly 3/4" usually comes out about right for the 97+ at 3") you won't need shims. Just make sure your motor mounts are in decent shape, first. The combination of shot mounts and a TC drop has, for some people, resulted in the mech fan eating the radiator. It doesn't happen often and takes a sort of perfect storm of worn out parts but it's something to look out for.
*9*/986/*85
Bumpstops: Depends on the 31's. 31x10.5's on stock wheels tend to rub at one or more of the following places during normal driving: LCA's at full lock, front bumper endcaps during turns, rear fender corners during turns. When one(s) and how badly they rub is dependent on a lot of small factors of your rig. You kinda have to just test fit them and see. Spacers or rims with less backspacing (junkyard target for that is the old 5x4.5 15" explorer rim) can solve the LCA issue while trimming is the usual solution for the fenders if needed. Bumpstops are about how much uptravel you let the jeep have. After market extended bumpstops are about 25-30 a pair for the front and more like 35-40 for the rear. The cheap jury-rig is to install spacers (usually cut from square tubing) between the frame and the factory rear stops and to bolt or glue hockey pucks onto the spring pads inside the coil up front. Bumpstops, like rubbing, are a matter of fitting, measuring and modifying according to your jeep. 31x9.5's tend to have fewer issues.

One thing we haven't talked about yet is the sway bars. Generally you can toss the rear one, but the front is important for body roll control. Well...maybe less so with Tbird coils but it should really stay in there. You can homebrew some quick disconnects with threaded rod, some female threaded johnny joints and a few other odds and ends. You can buy TJ ones which don't QUITE fit right but they're damn close and work well enough to get you to another solution or you can buy or fab relocation brackets for the body side mounts of the bar. Rough Country sells typical examples relatively cheap which should give you an idea if you're making them yourself or an option to buy them.


Every rig is unique, especially with a homebrew junkyard lift like this one so we're really just talking guidelines here but hopefully some of it is helpful.


If you haven't found it yet, you'll love this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/b...fit-xj-847303/

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post #6 of 8 Old 09-19-2017, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much! I feel like I have been reading up on this for weeks and this is the most help I have found! I'm really excited about doing this lift!
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-19-2017, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIWrangler View Post
Thank you so much! I feel like I have been reading up on this for weeks and this is the most help I have found! I'm really excited about doing this lift!
Glad it helps. There's a lot of ways to tackle some of these things so if you ha e questions on anything I've said or that you read elsewhere let us know. Another good resource is BleepinJeep's channel over on youtube. They have a million videos on XJ modification and maintenance projects, i use them all the time.

And please start a build thread over in the non technical XJ forum when you start, it's a great way to document your work for yourself and to answer these questions for anyone else that runs into the same thing.

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post #8 of 8 Old 09-20-2017, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIWrangler View Post
Thank you so much! I feel like I have been reading up on this for weeks and this is the most help I have found! I'm really excited about doing this lift!
Glad it helps. There's a lot of ways to tackle some of these things so if you ha e questions on anything I've said or that you read elsewhere let us know. Another good resource is BleepinJeep's channel over on youtube. They have a million videos on XJ modification and maintenance projects, i use them all the time.

And please start a build thread over in the non technical XJ forum when you start, it's a great way to document your work for yourself and to answer these questions for anyone else that runs into the same thing.
I love bleepinjeep! His video on the rear springs are great! And I will start a thread. Didn't think about that, but sounds good! Thanks again for all your help!
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