Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Which brand ball joints and front wheel unit bearings should I get?

3K views 44 replies 7 participants last post by  441119 
#1 ·
My XJ needs new ball joints and front wheel unit bearings.

What brand(s) do you recommend?

My local tire store alignment fellow is recommending Precision brand unit bearings, but he can also get Moog or Dana/Spicer. He can also get Napa parts. Is there a Napa brand unit bearing?

I'm a bit surprised he's recommending Precision brand unit bearings because he hates Chinese products and I thought Precision brand is now made in China. Was I misinformed?

Anywho, those are my 3 or 4 brand choices for unit bearings and ball joints. I want to get the best.
 
#2 ·
For hub bearings SKF or Timken. I think Rock Auto is the only one carrying Timken. Timken cost less, but are as good as SKF. As for NAPA, they source their parts. I think for the XJ it is Moog for the premium. For the rears on my Contour, they were SKF. Moogs I think are made in Mexico. Probably third on my list.
As for ball joints, I think most will recommend Dana/Spicer. Might be the premium NAPA ones. I have a set of Alloy USA (I think). They have done well for about two years. Some have had problems with them. I have a set of lower (WJ), Mevotech Tough Terrains (TTK ??). For the WJ brake upgrade. The problem with these is they are serrated , and some report you can't go back to Dana/Spicer after installing them. I think some of NAPA's stuff is Precision, ie U-Joints.
 
#3 ·
Charley,
I got the Timkens from Rockauto ($66.79/ea) for my TJ and my XJ. Ball joints....there are several options out there. The Synergy work, but moderately pricey. The Dana's are awesome, but quite pricey. NAPA premium are well made and work fine, but they cost just a bit less than the Synergy. My last 2 sets were the Moog Problem Solvers (K3161T @$36.79/ea and K3134T @$25.79/ea), again from RockAuto.
 
#17 ·
I got the Timkens from Rockauto ($66.79/ea) for my TJ and my XJ. Ball joints....there are several options out there. The Synergy work, but moderately pricey. The Dana's are awesome, but quite pricey. NAPA premium are well made and work fine, but they cost just a bit less than the Synergy. My last 2 sets were the Moog Problem Solvers (K3161T @$36.79/ea and K3134T @$25.79/ea), again from RockAuto.
Above you said "Ball joints....Dana's are awesome".

Below you said "Dana/Spicer ball joints have plastic liner/bushing material. They should be avoided at all costs."

Dana and Dana/Spicer are the same thing? Why do you first say they're awesome, then in a later post say they are inadequate and should be avoided. I'm confused. Does that brand make good or bad ball joints? Am I missing something?

Dana/Spicer ball joints have plastic liner/bushing material. They should be avoided at all costs. They are inadequate for even stock set-ups IMO and unsafe with any hard driving or increased pressure from bigger tires, etc.
 
#8 ·
I use timken unit bearings and moog problem solver ends and ball joints and have not been given reason to complain about either. The timkens are half the price on rockauto that I was ever able to find them for anywhere else (65 vs 120-135 elsewhere). Rockauto also has the dana/spicer ball joints at a good price if you prefer to stay oem.
 
#10 ·
I'd go with the Dana/Spicer ball joints and the Timken front hub assemblies.

Having said that I did use the Moog problem solver ball joints on my WJ. I wasn't too thrilled they couldn't even drill the hole for the zerk fitting in the middle of the metal plate but not saying they aren't good/work well.

But it's my understanding once you use a ball joint like Moog (see below photo) with knurls/splines on the outside of the case you can't go back to the smooth cases like Dana since it wallows the knuckle hole out a little. I've also heard some have problems with that new new dust boot design where the old one may be better.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=202637&cc=1431776&jsn=414

While the Timken HA597449 front hub assemblies for your XJ are $66 plus shipping believe I went with Amazon at $74 just because I have a prime account w/free 2-day fast shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Timken-HA597449-Axle-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B000BZAF36/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Jeep%7C42&Model=Cherokee%7C347&Year=1993%7C1993&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=8&vehicleType=automotive

But if placing a bulk order through Rockauto they aren't going to charge you the price difference of $8 per hub assembly in shipping. Plus this is if you have a prime account through Amazon.

On any orders through RA use one of the below current discount codes and enter it in the "How do you hear about us?" box at checkout. 5% off isn't much but it helps out with shipping charges. Good luck.

https://www.retailmenot.com/landing2/rockauto.com?c=8755985
 
#11 ·
I'm handicapped and cannot install those things myself. My cousin does most of my mechanical work, but he does not have a lift nor specialized tools for this job.

My tire store alignment guy is a goodfella and I'm going to have him do it. That means I have to buy brand(s) the tire store has to offer. He can get Moog Problem Solver, Dana/Spicer, Timken, Napa Premium, or Precision. So I want/need to choose the best from among those brands.
 
#12 ·
I'm handicapped and cannot install those things myself. My cousin does most of my mechanical work, but he does not have a lift nor specialized tools for this job.

My tire store alignment guy is a goodfella and I'm going to have him do it. That means I have to buy brand(s) the tire store has to offer. He can get Moog Problem Solver, Dana/Spicer, Timken, Napa Premium, or Precision. So I want/need to choose the best from among those brands.
You don't need a lift or anything. The "specialized" tools needed are a ball joint press, adapter set and axle nut socket. All those can be rented at a parts store for a returnable deposit.

Timken bearings and your discretion between moog ps or dana/spicer ball joints seems to be the consensus (or as close as we'll get here)
 
#15 ·
I've always liked move Moog Problem Solver, Timken, and Dana-Spicer parts. However after reading Newton's post I think I'll stay away from Dana-Spicer ball joints.

I've had pretty good luck with Napa Premium parts too.

I don't understand why my alignment guy recommended Precision unit bearings. He's never recommended that brand before.

I'll get Moog Problem Solver ball joints and Timken unit bearings since they seem to be highly regarded and among the brands I have to choose from at the alignment shop.

Napa Premium would probably be fine, but you never know for sure what brand you're really getting since they source them from someone else.
 
#16 ·
Are you saying you have to buy those brand name parts you mentioned through the alignment shop? And aren't they going to mark up those prices at least 2x the price what you can buy them through at Rockauto? If so it sounds kind of like a losing proposition.

As far as outsourcing most all parts manufacturers do it these days. The last Moog problem solver ball joints I bought said "Made in Taiwan" right on the box while the Timken front hub assemblies had "Slovenia" laser etched on them. But it does have a lot to do with quality control.
 
#18 ·
Are you saying you have to buy those brand name parts you mentioned through the alignment shop? And aren't they going to mark up those prices at least 2x the price what you can buy them through at Rockauto? If so it sounds kind of like a losing proposition.

As far as outsourcing most all parts manufacturers do it these days. The last Moog problem solver ball joints I bought said "Made in Taiwan" right on the box while the Timken front hub assemblies had "Slovenia" laser etched on them. But it does have a lot to do with quality control.
I guess I could buy ball joints anywhere, as long as I at least buy the unit hub bearings from the alignment shop. I'll probably buy Timken unit bearings. I'm still not decided what ball joints to get (mainly due to some conflicting BJ advice confusing me).
 
#19 ·
Newtons: This thread is the first time that I heard of SKF brand. Were you recommending SKF for unit bearings or ball joints? I think you meant unit bearings, but I wanted to verify what you meant.

Edited in a few minutes later: After a little Googling I found that SKF makes both unit bearings or ball joints. Which were you recommending?
 
#20 ·
Unit Bearings: Most people like Timken and SKF. What about Dana/Spicer OEM unit bearings? Does Moog make unit bearings?

I'm leaning towards Timken unit bearings because everyone seems to like them and they're easily available to me.

===

Ball Joints: Dana/Spicer and Moog (Problem Solver) gets mixed reviews. Most people here Moog Problem Solver ball joints, but at some other Jeep forums they don't like Moog ball joints. Synergy has good reviews. Napa Premium has OK reviews. SKF makes ball joints, but I haven't found any reviews on their ball joints. XRF ball joints have good reviews, except for some mixed reviews regarding ease of installation (super tight fit). XRF is a brand I only recently heard of (at a couple other Jeep forums).

I like what I've read about Synergy (chromoly ball joints, tear resistant poly boot, grease-able). The only potential problem I see is Synergy recommends using their brand of grease, which is NOT not going to happen. It'd get greased with whatever chassis grease my alignment guy or my cousin use. Would using regular chassis grease in Synergy be a problem?
 
#21 ·
Learned a bit more.

Synergy uses 4120 Chromoly steel, which is hard and strong. Impressive IMO.
http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-D30-D44-Heavy-Duty-Front-Ball-Joint-Sets-p-26182.html

XRF uses cold forged 4140 chromoly steel, which is very hard and strong. Super impressive IMO. These are commonly used on semi trucks, but are available for Jeeps too. At least that's what I read at other forums. XRF price for 4 ball joints is $50 less than Synergy. Is that a bargain or to good to be true?
http://www.xrfchassis.com/parts-balljoints.htm

4140 chromoly is significantly harder and stronger than 4120 chromoly, according to what I read at Wikipedia.

Obviously I'm not an expert on ball joints or chromoly. I'm learning as I go and posting updates of what I think I've learned in this thread. It may be that XRF are not good. I don't know at this point. I'm open to opinions.

===

Edited in Later: I just notice at Synergy website Jeep ball joint page their text description says 4140 chromoly, but their part number is 4120. So I have no idea what grade chromoly Synergy ball joints are made of.
 
#26 ·
The only stem failure in ball Jeep ball joints that I'm familiar with, is in the Dana's. Most reputable ball joint manufacturers are going to use an extremely strong material for this. This is generally not where the issues are. The issue is the cheap joints with weak preload springs, weak housings, weak back plates, and plastic liners/bushings. The improvements most of us are looking for are 1. Metal bushing material. 2. Greasability 3. Seal resiliency 4. Housing fit. Again, the only time I've ever seen a stem break on a Jeep (reasonably....not talking about wrecks or extreme builds) was on a Dana. The only time I've ever seen a ball joint housing come out of an axle was a Dana. I have seen many Dana ball joints just come apart. I've seen several cheap brands of ball joints come apart also. The point is, don't focus so much on the material the post or stem is made of. That's not where the problem is. As to the tight fit of the Moog joints. What are we after, a loose fitting ball joint? It takes no more effort to push the Moog's in than the any of the others. If I end up putting another set in, I will probably use the Moog's again.
 
#27 ·
Not doubting what you've seen with the Dana ball joints Newton but believe there's going to be lots of opinions out there especially how you use your Jeep. I'm using the Dana/Spicer replacement ball joints on my stock 96 ZJ I've owned since new, haven't had any problems with them, and I'm not going to worry about them falling apart. But I don't have large tires, no lift, and don't off-road hardly at all.

Here's a thread on ZJ's where some say they would never use Moog ball joints on a ZJ. But may not be fair since it's 7 years old and not sure if they made any changes to the Dana/Spicer ball joints yet? It's also a little confusing if the design was changed on the Dana ball joints for all models.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/best-strongest-ball-joints-1051001/index2.html

Having said that I did install the Moog ball joints on my 04 WJ. It was just the little things which irked me about them. Like hole drilled off center on the backing plate, not being able to install their 90 degree zerk fitting on lower ball joint since too close to axle, threads for zerk fitting about half-stripped, etc..

Federal-Mogul who owns Moog, Wagner brakes, Champion plugs, etc., is huge and they're outsourcing to the Asian countries more and more. I remember installing Wagner ebrake shoes on my WJ and they couldn't even glue the shoe material on the metal straight.

Not saying you couldn't pick Dana/Spicer apart and like many parts companies the quality just isn't like it used to be.
 
#29 ·
I found (mainland) Chinese products quality is all over the place from good to bad and in between depending on the company. But not all are bad. I have found Norman to be very good.

Taiwan stuff is usually pretty good these days.

Japanese stuff is usually excellent.

South Korean stuff is usually excellent. Many high quality aftermarket diff gears are made in South Korea. My rear diff has Nitro gears made in South Korea. The Nitro gears are excellent IME.

With various assorted other Asian countries I would have no idea what to expect.

The South Koreans and Japanese take pride in their work. They would be ashamed to make a bad product. That's part of their culture. Kind of like Germany.

Asian made stuff is not always a bad thing. In the case of Korean and Japanese items, I expect good quality and have always gotten it. Even mainland Chinese stuff is not always a bad thing, but it often is bad, which has damaged the reputation of Chinese products, and by extension Asian products.
 
#34 ·
Below is the info from XRF website. What does "...encapsulated in a high strength acetel bearing..." mean? What is acetel?

=== Text below is from XRF balljoint webpage at http://www.xrfchassis.com/parts-balljoints.htm ===

XRF ball joints are built to perform under the most severe conditions like the oil patch and logging sites.

XRF Ball Joint Features:

Cold forged ball stud of SAE4140 steel

Stud heat treatment for omni-directional strength

Triple lip boot seal to keep grease in and dirt out

Forged housings of SAE1045 steel give XRF ball joints the extra strength to have almost double the stud pull-out strength of our competitors

XRF Zero-Lash ball joints have a ball stud that is fully encapsulated in a high strength acetel bearing offering superior load disbusement and longer life.
.
 

Attachments

#35 ·
#36 ·
My .02 just for fun.

I got just under 18 months out of my last set of Spicer ball joints. I had "stance" & I hate "stance". :D It seems Spicer (polymer internals) and 37s don't play well together.

Went with G2 all-metal ball joints this time, we'll see how they hold up.

And I'll second everyone who said Timken for the unit bearings.
 
#37 ·
The only thing everyone agrees on is recommending Timken bearings. There's a good consensus on those being the best.

There's no consensus on ball joints. After all this I don't know any more about ball joints than when I started.

I will say this: All the professional installers I asked locally and online recommend Moog Problem Solver, or Spicer Professional Grade. Most installers like one and hate the other. Only one installer likes both.

Amateur Jeep enthusiasts online usually like Moog Problem Solver or Spicer, but a few like other brands (often Synergy).

The only brand that everyone likes is Dynatrac, but they don't make ball joints for D30.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top